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Caliper Leaking Help!!!

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Old Sep 19, 2008 | 04:22 PM
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Default Caliper Leaking Help!!!

This will be the third time I have replaced my front brake calipers from advanced auto parts. they keep leaking and braking the piston boot in the caliper!

This is a big problem! What if i got into a wreck!?! Well, I have beem searching on this forum for an hour now and cant find anything relevant about performance calipers.

I dont want remanufactured calipers anymore. Not from Ecklers, and not from advanced!!

Do you guys know any retailers out there that produce good calipers?

Im looking for a SAFE cruise on saturday nights, not one that could be my last.

Thanks---Derek
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Old Sep 19, 2008 | 05:05 PM
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Various venders sell NEW calipers. Corvette Central for one, perhaps Wilcox?
Regards,
Alan
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Old Sep 19, 2008 | 05:22 PM
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I'm pretty sure you can buy new ones from O'Rileys Auto Parts.
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Old Sep 19, 2008 | 06:35 PM
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ive tried looking into new from local retailers, and i have heard that it was just bad news bears. Any performance brands? I am kinda lost when it comes to these things. But I have not tried corvette central.

good thinking my friend. But any other suggestions would be awesome!

Thanks
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Old Sep 19, 2008 | 06:35 PM
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Did you check the rotor run out before replacing the rotor? hard to believe three in a row are bad.
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Old Sep 19, 2008 | 06:53 PM
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Rotors are brand new from Oreilys. I had to drill through the old machined rotors to break away the hub assy. (That was a ^&#$&) but I got it done.

Now the only problem is to get a good quality caliper.
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Old Sep 19, 2008 | 07:02 PM
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here's a couple of places to check out.

www.corvetteparts.com

www.corvetteamerica.com

www.fullthrottlecorvette.com

http://stores.ebay.com/CORVETTE-MACK

www.corvettecentral.com
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Old Sep 19, 2008 | 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by curving_edge
Rotors are brand new from Oreilys. I had to drill through the old machined rotors to break away the hub assy. (That was a ^&#$&) but I got it done.

Now the only problem is to get a good quality caliper.
Yeah, thats good but did you check runout, could be that the new rotors are not sitting exactly flush on the old hub, that'd cause problems for you. Peace,,, Moosie
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Old Sep 19, 2008 | 07:33 PM
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I'll be honest, I didn't know you could check run-out on the old hubs.

When I did my brake job a month ago, I replaced brake rotors, caliper, bearings, and the bearing shims. All seemed to line up and spin great.

But othe than that, everything seems good. Thanks for the posts 'hardworkinman'. Thats what i was lookin for.
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Old Sep 20, 2008 | 12:52 PM
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You need to check for rotor run out.

I too think it's odd that you have 3 sets of brake calipers go bad on you. You mentioned that both front calipers have gone bad, so I definitely would check the rotor run out since you also replaced the old rotors with new ones. There are vendors that sell you the correct calipers with S/S sleeves for a decent price. Muskegon brake comes to mind, which is where I purchased mine from. When you find out what the problem is/was, let us know.

Good luck.
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Old Sep 20, 2008 | 02:19 PM
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Im wondering if your problem is in your brake booster ,putting slight pressure at first and then A higher pressure .Which might be why the rubbers keep popping of the piston. the brakes work on front and back independently of each other so unless all four calipers let you down at once dont worry about the wreck you spoke of . I wolud start looking toward the booster, three sets of calipers is way to many My 75 is only on the second set and the ones I took off were original.As far as I know the Back are Original.I bought mine at Autozone lifetime warranty and they were AC delco the same thing I took in for the Core .I dont think it your run out because your rotor are fairly new .What type fluid are you using and have you ever mixed DOT2 with the 3 or the 4 Ive heard mixing the fluids is bad news.If your not sure I would start with new fluid and bleed the brakes and see how that goes before I put on anymore calipers, and be sure to use the anti squeal shims .
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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 04:31 PM
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Ive only used dot3 brake fluid. The rotors are all new. The calipers are also all reconditioned.

If it was a brake booster or a master cylinder giving too much pressure, how do you go about and test it? What tools do I need?

That would be a good step to check also for good measure.

Anybody know how?
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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 06:26 PM
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Seriously doubt either one would provide too much pressure, the failure mode is not enough pressure or leakage due to worn out seals. However, I would get yourself a cheap dial indicator and check the rotor runout. Just because the rotors are new doesn't mean they do not have any runout, and cheap calipers often have cheap, thin rubber seals.
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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott Marzahl
Seriously doubt either one would provide too much pressure, the failure mode is not enough pressure or leakage due to worn out seals. However, I would get yourself a cheap dial indicator and check the rotor runout. Just because the rotors are new doesn't mean they do not have any runout, and cheap calipers often have cheap, thin rubber seals.
Check the rotor run-out.



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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 07:02 PM
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Perfect pics Dean!
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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 07:56 PM
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Yeah those are really good pics. Even if you put new rotors on, the hubs themselves could have built up rust or grime that cause a little "run out". That's why they tell you to put old rotors back on exactly the way they came off or you could have wobbly feeling brakes and possible have the problems you are. Good luck.
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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 10:26 PM
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FWIW I agree, you've got another problem causing the caliper to fail - you're treating the symptom, not the cause. I'd check the runout; might be able to get a gauge at Advance or Autozone through their "rent a tool". I need to get my books out and study this but don't we have a proportioning valve that helps balance the flow of fluid from the master to the calipers?

Also, while the Advance Auto route may seem like a PITA look at it this way; minimal down time and zero cost of shipping. If you had gone with a catalog you'd be out S&H plus a week minimal on jack stands for each of the three calipers replaced...

Good luck
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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 10:32 PM
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There is a proportional block below the master on near the frame that help the front to rear pressure.
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Old Sep 23, 2008 | 12:12 AM
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Hey hey! I checked the run out. all is in good standard. it was late at night and forgot the numbers, but it good!

You also mentioned a "pressure proportioning valve"?! Really? How can one of those go bad? And do you check that too? I hope its not that, gotta bleed em' all over again.....blahhh

Thanks again for all the help so far! Crazy stuff!
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Old Sep 23, 2008 | 12:53 AM
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It's not so much a proportioning valve as it is a distribution block with an internal switch for the brake warning light. When one system (front or rear) looses pressure it overcomes the pressure balance and the switch contact is made. The only thing that can fail is the switch. The pressure differential front/rear comes from the master cylinder with it two different piston areas and the difference in piston/bore sizes between the front and rear calipers with the fronts having much larger pistons and bores.

As for the rubber boots, those cheap rebuilt calipers have cheap very thin rubber seals. Compare those to thick OEM quality seals to what Lonestar Caliper or Vette Brakes uses/sells and you'll know why they only last 3 months.

Last edited by Scott Marzahl; Sep 23, 2008 at 01:23 AM.
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