When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm trying to figure out what is reasonable for the headlight opening gaps. If they are too tight then after paint and through normal operation they will rub. Too big and they may not look right. I assume getting them even all the way around is important.
Reason is my car had the openings glassed over and some square headlights put in where the grill belongs. So I have to recreate the openings. In tearing things apart I found enough of the original openings to get me close.
I am looking for advice on gap size and pictures of headlight openings that don't bind would help a lot. I could just compare to the pics.
Thanks in advance guys!
I'm trying to figure out what is reasonable for the headlight opening gaps. If they are too tight then after paint and through normal operation they will rub. Too big and they may not look right. I assume getting them even all the way around is important.
Reason is my car had the openings glassed over and some square headlights put in where the grill belongs. So I have to recreate the openings. In tearing things apart I found enough of the original openings to get me close.
I am looking for advice on gap size and pictures of headlight openings that don't bind would help a lot. I could just compare to the pics.
Thanks in advance guys!
The gaps are in the AIM, not sure what page but you can find them.
I'm having a tough time maintainig an 1/8" gap all around. If I go less then 3/16" at the back the unit rubs on the way up. I may have to radius the back edge of the nose panel to close up the gap.
I've spent a few hours adjusting them already and it looks like I'm in for another session.
I don't have good after shots yet of the lights closed, but here's a few shots of where I'm at now:
you might have to "round" the edges a little on the hood surround so the cover doesn't scrape when it opens. also remember the gap will close slightly after prime/paint/ clear.
I appreciate the info but 1/8 inch with no rubbing doesn't sound possible in reality, or practically. Does anyone have any pictures from the top looking down with the doors closed?
I appreciate the info but 1/8 inch with no rubbing doesn't sound possible in reality, or practically. Does anyone have any pictures from the top looking down with the doors closed?
My friends 69 is original and the gaps are very tight and there is no rubbing. I wish mine fit as well as his. I have some pics at home and I'll try & scan them tonight, but I'm sure others will have good pics before then.
Glenn
If you get 3/16th, you're okay. These cars were not perfect when they left St. Louis. The clearance dimensions in the AIM are what was hoped for and the ideal, but probably not the norm.
In the last pic with the doors open,you are looking prety good.IMO
I wouldn't think you would be too far off when they are closed.
I feel that if they operate without binding and the gaps are equal,you're good to go.
Mark
Can't you just put them in the "down" position and see what 'adjustment'/shimming you need to do on the headlight mounting bolts to get them to line up well? You would also be able to see what body work still needed to be done to get them just right.
Can't you just put them in the "down" position and see what 'adjustment'/shimming you need to do on the headlight mounting bolts to get them to line up well? You would also be able to see what body work still needed to be done to get them just right.
I wish it was that easy. There are several adjustment points that all have limits. In my case the doors need to be skewed corner to corner and I can't get the adjustment without hitting the back side.
I appreciate the info but 1/8 inch with no rubbing doesn't sound possible in reality, or practically. Does anyone have any pictures from the top looking down with the doors closed?
Close as I can get.
In my estimation, this is typical. Better gaps on the right than on the left, but -- altogether -- not bad. Also note the hood alignment. Not perfect.
I wish it was that easy. There are several adjustment points that all have limits. In my case the doors need to be skewed corner to corner and I can't get the adjustment without hitting the back side.
Did you try adjusting the pivot bushings position? There's a lot of adjustment room. Also you can slide the Actuator bracket back & forth which will raise or lower the assembly slightly and then readjust the pivot bushing position.
Did you try adjusting the pivot bushings position? There's a lot of adjustment room. Also you can slide the Actuator bracket back & forth which will raise or lower the assembly slightly and then readjust the pivot bushing position.
Thanks for the suggestions. I've been working with the pivot bearing adjustment which is getting me closer, but I'm still not there yet.
Did you try adjusting the pivot bushings position? There's a lot of adjustment room. Also you can slide the Actuator bracket back & forth which will raise or lower the assembly slightly and then readjust the pivot bushing position.
To be clear, I am recreating the openings because someone glassed them over. So I need to know what I should be shooting for from a reasonable cosmetic and operational perspective. I don't want to be dissapointed later but don't have a reference point.
To be clear, I am recreating the openings because someone glassed them over. So I need to know what I should be shooting for from a reasonable cosmetic and operational perspective. I don't want to be dissapointed later but don't have a reference point.
Are the original openings still visable from under the car? If so you may be able to get a reference measurement. I can try to take some baseline measurements for the openings on my car for you if you have a starting point. Let me know, I'll be out in the garage tonight.
Hi AW,
Do you have the headlight doors that you're planning to use? They will help you decide how to build the openings. The 71 AIM indicates .10 to .14 inches for the gap.
I think having the door VERY well centered in the opening is more important and noticeable than the size of the gap. I'd think an 1/8th to 3/16th is acceptable.
The pictures are of my 71. I didn't change the gap at all. I did, however, work on both the doors and the surround to get them very flush.
Regards,
Alan
When I was working my headlights I found if you shim the ft. where it bolts to the support under the bumper it will change the angle and be more forgiving and help keep the door from hitting in the rear.
Also if you are using the cast headlight bezels they need to be attached with all the screws. If they are not there when you go to put everything back together the body work you spent so much time doing may be off. Mine was off so I had to rework it, I was lucky I figured it out before the paint but I also had to go over something a second time.
I'm having a tough time maintainig an 1/8" gap all around. If I go less then 3/16" at the back the unit rubs on the way up. I may have to radius the back edge of the nose panel to close up the gap.
I've spent a few hours adjusting them already and it looks like I'm in for another session.
I don't have good after shots yet of the lights closed, but here's a few shots of where I'm at now:
I hate lawn mowers. Those headlight door assemblies look better than new. I also like the way you have prepped the lip for the hood to rest on. Head light door gaps I have not attacked yet, been fighting the pass/driver door gaps I'm learning