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Ok, I was missing an air tank for my headlights. .....so I made one today.
Anyway, this will fit nicely right under the crossmember for the front bumper support. It's all 14 gauge steel, 4"X30" and has two brass nipples for the vacuum lines. It should work out well. I had to build up the tube with weld and then grind it smooth to create the bosses that were drilled and tapped 1/8" npt for the vacuum lines to attach to. I probably should've welded the mounting tabs on it before I painted it, but oh well, I got excited.
It's also a good thing to have when you go WOT (no vacuum level), but need to hit the power brakes quickly. The tank maintains vacuum level when engine conditions don't provide any. You also need the check valve in the system so that the tank won't leak down.
It's also a good thing to have when you go WOT (no vacuum level), but need to hit the power brakes quickly. The tank maintains vacuum level when engine conditions don't provide any. You also need the check valve in the system so that the tank won't leak down.
I didn't think the brake vacuum lines had anything to do with the headlight vacuum system with the exception of the vacuum tree on the manifold, in which case the vacuum from the tank would nothing to do with the brakes.
Congratulations!!! You are bringing Bubba to a whole new level. You did a very nice job there but wouldn't it have been easier to buy a new one for $40 bucks or a good used one for about half that?
Congratulations!!! You are bringing Bubba to a whole new level. You did a very nice job there but wouldn't it have been easier to buy a new one for $40 bucks or a good used one for about half that?
My Eckler's catalog says $60 plus tax and shipping. This was $35 total. (and it's twice the size) My headlights should never drift up with a reservoir this size.
Also, I don't especially like the term "Bubba" in referance to my work. I'm a fabricator. I wouldn't consider hand forming sheet metal quarter panels "bubba work". If I really cared what this piece looked like, I would have spent more than the 30 minutes I did to make it, and finished it off so it was indistinguishable from a factory piece. I don't mean to sound snooty, I really don't. ...but after today, comments like this will get under my skin. I'm a hotrod builder/fabricator with 30+ years at turning wrenches. I'm no $9/hr backyard hack. Again, I'm not really that upset at anyone here, I had a customer rub me the wrong way today, and I appologize in advance for being salty. Thanks for the kind comments everyone. I'll let you how it works after I get it installed tomorrow.
P.S. I also make my own mufflers, repair panels, interiors on occasion, steering wheels and what ever else needs to made and can't be bought.
I also just thought up a turbo muffler that'll fit inside a 4" tube for side pipes. I'm gonna make the headers and mufflers for my Corvette and I'll let you know how they turn out.
Last edited by earthquake68; Nov 8, 2008 at 09:33 PM.
That's a good idea. This is made out of 14 gauge steel. The nipples are actually two differant sizes. The bigger one will be t'ed and go to the actuator relays, the smaller one will go back to the manifold. The check valve should insure me to operate the headlights a few times with the engine off, ....if I need to do that.
Congratulations!!! You are bringing Bubba to a whole new level. You did a very nice job there but wouldn't it have been easier to buy a new one for $40 bucks or a good used one for about half that?
Not sure I agree, and I certainly wouldn't call what the OP made a Bubba tank. It's actually a well thought out project that took very little time and money and will work just as good or better than the stock tank.
Bubba probably would have used a couple 2 liter bottles Duct taped together.