If someone could help me, I would appreciate it. I need to replace the speedometer bulb in the left instrument cluster. What do I need to do to lower the steering column so I can pull the cluster forward to change the bulb?

 

You're in for a battle. That dash is the hardest to get out. I found it easier to remove the passenger side dash, reach though and undo everything, and remove the upper dash. This may not be your best option but I was able to remove the driver's side dash a lot easier with no upper dash installed. As I said, the upper dash is hard to get out and prone to cracking so that may not work best for you.

 

You may be better to grit your teeth, turn upside down and just do it. "Brute force method" as my dad used to say.

 

I need to do the same thing, and in a past thread it was suggested to drop the steering col, vacuum switches etc..., then loosen the instrument panel so it could be lowered a bit to reach in and might as well replace all the bulbs while you can get in there.
Let us know how it goes.
Glenn

 

If its a coupe its a little easier.I generally just loosen everything and lower the column.Take the tach cable loose from the dist.Remove the drivers seat,lay on my back with feet in the back well area and start cussing.Take 4-5 Advil and go to bed.

 

So you guys are saying I should do ALL my bulbs NOW??

 

Thanks for all your replies. One more question, what's involved in lowering the steering column so I can pull the left instrument panel out a little and hopefully reach behind it to replace the bulb. I know there are 2large bolt underneath the steering column; I removed them but the column didn't lower very much. What else do I have to remove in order to lower it enough?

 

Several years ago I went through my 1971 coupe dash and refurbished everything and put in new lenses and all new bulbs of which none of the origionals were bad. Within a short time I had a tach bulb go out. Decided to live with it with all I went through. Incidently I hooked up the vaccum lines on the headlight switch per the Assembley Manuel and after getting it all back togather the lights would not function because the Manuel was wrong! I was able to trouble shoot the problem and switch hoses by loosening the upper screws on the tach/speedometer panel and changes the hoses thru the small opening. Ed

 

To lower the steering column the most you need to unbolt the rag joint on the steering box. You don't need to remove the 2 pieces, just unbolt the 2 bolts that hold them together so you can pull the steering column back and let it pivot down.

Next unbolt the bracket at the firewall. There are 2 nuts on the inside (1 on each side of the steering column). If you have a stand transmission, you want to unhook the gorilla spring that goes from the clutch linkage to the bracket first - it is under tension. You can remove the bracket on the engine side of the firewall. On standards there is an interlock cable that goes from the steering column to the trans. Not sure on autos.

Remove the lower steering column cover and override switches on the bottom of the steering column / dash. You can see two bolts that hold the steering column to the dash. You can then lower the steering column.

You might be able to lower the column enough by just loosening the firewall bracket and leaving the rag joints connected. But I could not get much clearance for the dash and to me you are putting the rag joint and fiberglass firewall in a bind. It takes a little longer to unhook the extra stuff but to me it's worth it.

There are 3 screws to the upper dash - 2 screws in the door frame - and 2 screw in the center bezel to remove. Then you can pull the dash out enough to reach behind the dash and feel for the bulbs. You may want to unhook the tach cable from the tach so you don't put it in a bind.


OR you might just want to drive during daylight hours so you don't need the dash lights.

Good luck.

 

Thanks for your answer. I will give it a try. I do have a4 speed manual transmission.

 

You will also find that several of the bulb sockets will come apart when you change bulbs. The metal retaining ring will come loose from the plastic housing. The solution to this is to clean the two tangs on the retaining ring and mix up some 2-part epoxy. Put just a dab of epoxy on the plastic housing where the ring tangs are pressed in. Then re-seat the ring in the housing. You'll never have to worry about them coming loose again. [You might as well do all of them while you have it apart.]

 

"I need to replace the speedometer bulb in the left instrument cluster"


"You're in for a battle"


I love these 'Vettes, don't you?

 

It wasn't as hard as they suggest here. I just took out a couple of parts and it was easy.



Of course getting the parts back together was a real PITA.

Seriously, go easy on the lower left dash pad, I broke mine and had to replace it. Talk about a set back, that cost me two months on my interior rebuild schedule.

Good luck.

David

 

Those plastic sockets are junk. I could never understand why they didn't use the all metal sockets like they installed on some of the other GM products.

 

$$...that's the only reason.

 

Guys,

You're making this more work than you have to. You can get to the clusters without dropping the column. Take the two screws out of the left side, the three out of the top, and the three that go to the middle gauge cluster, and if you have a tilt steering wheel, lower it (but you don't have to). Now you can sick your hand through the top. You just have to be careful not to knock the bulbs into the speedo when you disconnect the plastic retainers. I use a flathead screwdriver to pry the metal clip out (be careful not to pry it on the weak parts that stick out when you stick the screwdriver under the inner part of the clip) and I do recommend using superglue when you are done. This has to be the worst lighting design I've ever seen in my life!

-69

 

You can be done in an hour and a half. Dropping the steering column is easy, once you've done i once.

Separate rag joint in center by the two longitudinal bolts

Remove lock out cable from column in engine bay

remove column to fire wall plate by bolts inside pass compartment behind pedals

remove two large hold up bolts under dash--Don't let the column fall on you! --- Done

Now you can drop the instrument cluster and pull it out as far as it goes and access the bulbs. change all of them,, watch out for your vac lines on your head light switch,,, button it back up,, paying attention to column alignment--

loosely connect rag joint bolts, loosely put column hold up bolts under dash back in, tighten up rag bolts, tighten up hold up bolts (15ft/lbs only), tighten up fire wall plat bolts.

Done. not really bad at all, just kinda weird for a instrument lamp..

 

Good description Runningman. Lets hope their old rag joint bolts don't give them problems.

 

Having taken my dash apart a couple of times, I'm thinking taking the top dash pad off is the best way to do this. Let it sit out in the sun to soften up because you will need to bend it in the middle to get it out.

It's a half day job if you dismantle the dash pads and steering column then put it back together.

cc

 

Don't forget to disconnect your battery before you start. 2 hour job max.