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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 09:53 AM
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Default Winching onto trailer

I have purchased a 1969 corvette that does not run. Body is in great shape. I plan to winch the covette onto a Uhaul car trailer in order to get it home. Any suggestions or hints or tricks are greatly appreciated.

Last edited by iceref63; Jan 28, 2009 at 10:18 AM.
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 10:20 AM
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DO NOT use the sway bar to pull it up on the trailer nor to tie it down with. use the lower cross member might need a small strap to go around it. Depending on how low the car is you might need a couple of 2x8's to set the car on to raise it up some. I prefer to lash down the lower control arm this will let the car move some on the trailer unless you have the straps the can go over the wheels. On the ***-end try to get you straps over the trailing arms again this will let it move a little as you go down the road. If you have the time to pick up some good straps i like going threw the rims and use separate tie-downs for each well. BUY GOOD RATCHET STRAPS you can usually pick some of them up at a tractor supply store and on sell for 10-bucks 10,000#'s with hooks. If you can use them you might get them to hook back on to themselves. On any excess strap left over tie it back over the handle so they can't work loose and secure the left over strap with duck tape or a bungee cord. Check you load after about 10 miles then every time you get fuel if your going a long way.

GOOD LUCK and have Lot's of FUN with your new toy wro87
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 10:35 AM
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Should I place a block of some sort under the crossmember when I winch it onto the trailer? I am a little worried that the winch cable will rub the bottom valance when I winch it.
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by wro87
DO NOT use the sway bar to pull it up on the trailer nor to tie it down with. use the lower cross member might need a small strap to go around it. Depending on how low the car is you might need a couple of 2x8's to set the car on to raise it up some. I prefer to lash down the lower control arm this will let the car move some on the trailer unless you have the straps the can go over the wheels. On the ***-end try to get you straps over the trailing arms again this will let it move a little as you go down the road. If you have the time to pick up some good straps i like going threw the rims and use separate tie-downs for each well. BUY GOOD RATCHET STRAPS you can usually pick some of them up at a tractor supply store and on sell for 10-bucks 10,000#'s with hooks. If you can use them you might get them to hook back on to themselves. On any excess strap left over tie it back over the handle so they can't work loose and secure the left over strap with duck tape or a bungee cord. Check you load after about 10 miles then every time you get fuel if your going a long way.

GOOD LUCK and have Lot's of FUN with your new toy wro87
Take two 2x8 short ramps to make the angle lower at the start of the trailer. You can also crank up the front of the trailer while its hooked to the truck, and that will lower the back of the trailer. Have help with you!!. When I bought mine the minute I paid the guy he said he had to leave for work and left me there to load it myself. I didnt have anyone to hit the brake when the trailer leveled off. YIKES !! I had to throw the strap under the tire. I used a short strap around the front crossmember then hooked the winch to it. just make sure everything is down tight and stop and check it a few times. Good Luck.


GO STEELERS
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 11:06 AM
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Front crossmember is probably your best bet for winching it onto the trailer.

For strapping it down on the trailer, there are two slotted holes in the frame under each door (4 total) that, to my understanding, were used to pull the car down the assembly line. Use S-hooks in these holes and attach your chains or heavy duty winching straps to the S-hooks.

Depending on where you can attach hooks, I tyically either use two chains and two big winching straps or 3 chains and two winching straps. Attach the chains to the two S hooks (slotted holes) in the front and affix to solid position on the trailer in the rear on the right and left and use the straps for the rear holes with the winching straps to the front. You can use a chain to go between the two S-hooks (slots) if you want to use only one winching strap. When you tighten the winching straps you will pull the car forward against the chains so it cannot move.

Good luck!

I'll see if I have any pics because that is CONFUSING!

Last edited by SuprJames; Jan 28, 2009 at 11:11 AM.
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 11:12 AM
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In addition to the above good advice, if you can put the rear straps that secure the car to the trailer while driving in an "X" pattern that will prevent the straps from working their way loose on windy roads and prevent side-to-side movement of the car on the trailer.
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 01:34 PM
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Should I load it nose first or tail first?
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 01:43 PM
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nose
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 02:29 PM
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If you do it in the "X" pattern like 68 NJConv 454 you can probably avoid the chain touching the tires like it is in my pictures (it's actually barely touching the tires). Also, I went from the front of the trailer to the front slots, but going to the rear slots and vice versa for the rear of the trailer is what I've done since and it works better.

Pics:





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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by wro87
DO NOT use the sway bar to pull it up on the trailer nor to tie it down with. use the lower cross member might need a small strap to go around it. Depending on how low the car is you might need a couple of 2x8's to set the car on to raise it up some. I prefer to lash down the lower control arm this will let the car move some on the trailer unless you have the straps the can go over the wheels. On the ***-end try to get you straps over the trailing arms again this will let it move a little as you go down the road. If you have the time to pick up some good straps i like going threw the rims and use separate tie-downs for each well. BUY GOOD RATCHET STRAPS you can usually pick some of them up at a tractor supply store and on sell for 10-bucks 10,000#'s with hooks. If you can use them you might get them to hook back on to themselves. On any excess strap left over tie it back over the handle so they can't work loose and secure the left over strap with duck tape or a bungee cord. Check you load after about 10 miles then every time you get fuel if your going a long way.

GOOD LUCK and have Lot's of FUN with your new toy wro87

Now why would you want it to move some on the trailer going down the road???




Originally Posted by iceref63
Should I place a block of some sort under the crossmember when I winch it onto the trailer? I am a little worried that the winch cable will rub the bottom valance when I winch it.
That is the best way to prevent damage.


Your tie down points will depend largely on the tie down points on the trailer. Have them as long and as far apart as possible.
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 04:16 PM
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pull your car up on the trailer so you will only have only about 300 pounds of toung weight on the trailer. if you dont have brakes on the trailer stoping the trailer is more inportant then pulling the trailer . make sure your hitch reciver pin is locked in and lock the trailer reciver os the latch cant come un lached. be safe and have a good trip
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by noonie
Now why would you want it to move some on the trailer going down the road???
I think he means that the cars suspension can absorb some of the bumbs and bounce also going down the road rather than hooking to the frame and cranking down on the springs. I don't know which is better.
In the rear I put a wide strap around the 1/2 shafts close to the wheels and go straight to the back of the trailer. Also have a chain strap that I hook into the frame just behind the door like shown above and go back under the car as a little extra security. You want more strength holding back if you have to hit the brakes hard. I cross the fronts going around the lower control arms.
Take her 500+ miles to Carlisle with no problems.
[IMG][/IMG]
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 05:18 PM
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I remove the license plate and bracket sometimes to attach the winch cable on 73-74's and it may work on others.
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Sebago Shark
I think he means that the cars suspension can absorb some of the bumbs and bounce also going down the road rather than hooking to the frame and cranking down on the springs.
I don't think hooking to the frame will cause the suspension to collapse at all. Pretty sure you'd still get all the down movement and just limit the up.

I'm sure an expert will chime in any minute
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 11:09 AM
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Thanks for the info everybody. Car is home and in the garage. Let the fun begin!
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 12:29 AM
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 02:22 PM
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How do I add pics?
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To Winching onto trailer

Old Feb 3, 2009 | 02:32 PM
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http://forums.corvetteforum.com/memb...ette-pics.html
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 03:13 PM
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Congratulations on your new toy.
The exterior paint and the motor seem to be in pretty good conditionfrom the photos.
Kurt
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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 01:51 AM
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Originally Posted by iceref63
I have purchased a 1969 corvette that does not run. Body is in great shape. I plan to winch the covette onto a Uhaul car trailer in order to get it home. Any suggestions or hints or tricks are greatly appreciated.
I winch my 78 to go to the track almost every week...here's how I've done it...from trial and error...I drive the car onto the the the trailer (or winch it if not running). I winch the car a little more with a special strap under the engine frame (crossmember under front oil pan)/I put a wedge under front driver's side tire and winch it tight up to it/ then install two 10klb. ratchet straps to rear differential using same type strap around diff.- it's a little tight, but do not put strap around rear leaf spring and tighten both sides...pics incl. to help visualize this:





hope this helps...I get zero roll at stop lights...the key is to keep the car stationary and not get too close to winch as it could tear front clip if it rolls onto it...so keep it about 1.5-3 ft away from winch...DDBS

above pics I'm ratcheting to frame under rear quarter panel- it's a pain to get the straps over it, that's why I have the new rear diff. strap- it's about 1.5 feet long with two hooks on each end (Jeggs)...DDBS

Last edited by Daddybugs; Feb 4, 2009 at 01:53 AM.
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