Research
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,957
Likes: 6
From: The Woodlands TX TX
Research
I am thinking of trying to find a C3 down the road, but I am not to familiar with the ins and outs of the generation. I am very into the performance cars but also realistic about my purchasing power.
What I think I really want is a Convertible with either the LS5 454 or LT-1 from 1970.
I'd also be interested in a 68 or 69 427 but have a good feeling I'll never afford a convertible.
Is this going to be a hard to to find? What is your feeling?
Also, what can I expect from driving either car? Should I look for an NCRS award winner, or can a good car still be found. I am personally not real involved with the NCRS, but was considering having my 94 ZR-1 looked at.
Anyway...what are some pros and cons between the LT-1 and LS5.
What I think I really want is a Convertible with either the LS5 454 or LT-1 from 1970.
I'd also be interested in a 68 or 69 427 but have a good feeling I'll never afford a convertible.
Is this going to be a hard to to find? What is your feeling?
Also, what can I expect from driving either car? Should I look for an NCRS award winner, or can a good car still be found. I am personally not real involved with the NCRS, but was considering having my 94 ZR-1 looked at.
Anyway...what are some pros and cons between the LT-1 and LS5.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Suggestions:
1.) Buy from a private owner. Dealers jack the prices up much too high for what they have to offer...and their cars are mostly purty', not necessarily in good shape. Private owners tend to be proud of what they have and take really good care of them.
2.) If you want a convertible, get one. If you don't..just to save money..you will regret it afterwards and do this all over again to get what you really want.
3.) '68 cars are really nice, but there are a lot of 1-year-only parts on them. And, if you want it to stay original, it may be more costly in the long run.
4.) '69/'70's are probably your best choices, but there are many more '69s available since 1970 was a strike year for GM.
5.) '68-70 BB convertibles are the highest dollar C3's. '71-72 cars are less expensive, and their engines will run on today's regular gas, and they look just the same [except for minor cosmetic differences]. If you want max. HP and want the car to stay completely original, buy a '69-70. If you want to save money, buy a '71-72 BB, do some modest upgrade to the engine to get the HP up (heads, intake, cam) and have the best of both worlds.
Good luck in your search.
1.) Buy from a private owner. Dealers jack the prices up much too high for what they have to offer...and their cars are mostly purty', not necessarily in good shape. Private owners tend to be proud of what they have and take really good care of them.
2.) If you want a convertible, get one. If you don't..just to save money..you will regret it afterwards and do this all over again to get what you really want.
3.) '68 cars are really nice, but there are a lot of 1-year-only parts on them. And, if you want it to stay original, it may be more costly in the long run.
4.) '69/'70's are probably your best choices, but there are many more '69s available since 1970 was a strike year for GM.
5.) '68-70 BB convertibles are the highest dollar C3's. '71-72 cars are less expensive, and their engines will run on today's regular gas, and they look just the same [except for minor cosmetic differences]. If you want max. HP and want the car to stay completely original, buy a '69-70. If you want to save money, buy a '71-72 BB, do some modest upgrade to the engine to get the HP up (heads, intake, cam) and have the best of both worlds.
Good luck in your search.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 492
Likes: 3
From: Temecula CA
Check out what a loaded Camry or Accord costs these days. It will make paying $25K plus for a really good Vette alot easier to stomach! Paying 10 or 15 grand more for a better Corvette is probably cheaper in the long run (unless you enjoy the restoration process!).Good Luck!
Temvette72
Temvette72
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,957
Likes: 6
From: The Woodlands TX TX
I didn't know 70 was a strike year. I thought there would be more of the 454's available than the 427's, especially the LS5. I lean towards the 70 model due to the higher compression/HP etc. I think a 71-72 would still be great and may prove to be more affordable.
I didn't know about any one year only parts on a 68, and I do favor keeping my cars as original as possible. I will do whatever to keep them safe to drive though. I don't want a garage queen.
I wouldn't have thought the LT-1 vert would be more than the 70 LS5 vert, but I guess so. I guess what I want to know is if the 70 454 really feels less powerful than the 427 390HP motor, not the solid lifter 435 HP car.
Also, can you not run modern 93 Octane in a 1970 LS5? If not how do you get gas? The internet? Do you have to put in a lead additive?
I didn't know about any one year only parts on a 68, and I do favor keeping my cars as original as possible. I will do whatever to keep them safe to drive though. I don't want a garage queen.
I wouldn't have thought the LT-1 vert would be more than the 70 LS5 vert, but I guess so. I guess what I want to know is if the 70 454 really feels less powerful than the 427 390HP motor, not the solid lifter 435 HP car.
Also, can you not run modern 93 Octane in a 1970 LS5? If not how do you get gas? The internet? Do you have to put in a lead additive?
