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Well I have my 77 a part doing the head, intake, carb & cam swap I noticed the radiator shows signs of leaking between the core and the end. Can you all tell me where I can get a good replacement and how much you paid for it. If you are happy with it or not. What years will fit my 77 auto?
Thanks
If you can afford it, Dewitt's is arguably the best replacement radiator for your Vette. You can find radiators at Autozone that might work out - it all depends on what your criteria are.
www.dewitts.com for more info. I have no connection to the company, just a satisfied customer.
If you can afford it, Dewitt's is arguably the best replacement radiator for your Vette. You can find radiators at Autozone that might work out - it all depends on what your criteria are.
www.dewitts.com for more info. I have no connection to the company, just a satisfied customer.
Rick B.
Another VERY satisfied customer of DeWitts. It's the best crafted aluminum radiator I have ever worked with hands down, and the customer service was even better than that. They are designed to bolt right in just as the factory radiator did and they even come with drains and foam supports that go on the core support. Heck the packaging was so good the UPS truck could have driven OVER the box and the radiator would have been fine. LOL.
Seriously, yes you can get them recored for around $400, yes you can buy new replacements so $300 or less, but I question the quality. I tried a replacement radiator before my aluminum one. It didn't fit right, and it had crappy welds holding on the tanks. Not work it having to buy TWO radiators to fix the one problem.
If you can afford it, Dewitt's is arguably the best replacement radiator for your Vette. You can find radiators at Autozone that might work out - it all depends on what your criteria are.
www.dewitts.com for more info. I have no connection to the company, just a satisfied customer.
I had my 79's recored, but the best way to go is with a Dewitt's replacement radiator. Dewitts quality is top flight and considering the amount of work to pull the radiator I'd put in a Dewitt's unit in a minute.
If you know of a good radiator shop, you can have the original radiator re-cored for about half what a new (non-original) radiator costs...and about 1/3 of what an 'original reproduction' radiator costs. There is nothing wrong with a re-cored radiator. Just have them inspect all the tanks/inlet/outlet, etc. and clean/repair them before they reassemble. When done, it will be as good as the original.
{P.S. You don't need to tell them it's out of a Corvette; just tell them it's out of an older Chevy [which it is, of course]. Some places jack their prices when you say "Corvette".}
What is "best" depends on what you are trying to do. A "re-core" means that the entire core of the radiator (the finned section) is replaced with new; the tanks, etc. are removed from your radiator; they are cleaned, repaired (if necessary) and attached to the new core to create a unit that is identical to what you originally had. If that is what you need, that is "best" for you. If, on the other hand, you need a more efficient radiator and/or larger radiator system because you 'beefed-up' your engine, perhaps a new DeWitt radiator is "best". I wanted to keep my car 'stock' and the engine is still 'stock', so I had my radiator recored and I'm completely happy with the results.
What is "best" depends on what you are trying to do. A "re-core" means that the entire core of the radiator (the finned section) is replaced with new; the tanks, etc. are removed from your radiator; they are cleaned, repaired (if necessary) and attached to the new core to create a unit that is identical to what you originally had. If that is what you need, that is "best" for you. If, on the other hand, you need a more efficient radiator and/or larger radiator system because you 'beefed-up' your engine, perhaps a new DeWitt radiator is "best". I wanted to keep my car 'stock' and the engine is still 'stock', so I had my radiator recored and I'm completely happy with the results.
Totally agree.
Since I beefed up my junk, I selected an aluminum DeWitts cooled with a single SPAL fan. Another DeWitts happy-camper here.
Like 7T1 asked: what is your overall goal?
Last edited by Dustup7T2; Feb 4, 2009 at 04:45 PM.
Reason: add text
my car is stock and I dont think it will get much beyond that. Its a a/c car though so I want good cooling. The radiator shop I use for my shops says he can recore it with some kind of higher quality tubing for 300-350. The cheap replacement he can get me is 550. He suggest recoring my old one.
I installed a new one from AutoZone in my '77 last year, and it's worked fine so far. Fit perfect. Cost was around $250. It's about a one to two hour job.
The re-cored unit will be a lot better than the aluminum Dura-junk unit from Mexi-Zone. Stay with a rebuild of your original unit for that difference in money.
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-‘18-'19
Oldtimer
I just had my radiator recored at a local shop and it has worked out very well. The running temperature has dropped about 10 degrees. I also replaced the radiator core support. This is a good time to check the condition of your support. The core support will rust at the bottom and corner areas. Check your seals between the support and radiator also. Chuck
Well I have my 77 a part doing the head, intake, carb & cam swap I noticed the radiator shows signs of leaking between the core and the end. Can you all tell me where I can get a good replacement and how much you paid for it. If you are happy with it or not. What years will fit my 77 auto?
Thanks
Personally, I'd suggest finding a local "Radiator" shop. They can get most anything for you. They can even recore the original if you need to keep things "original". I got the original stock replacement from a local radiator shop for around the $200-300 range. All the catalog outlets want insane amounts ranging from $500-$1000. For me, it was not worth it. The one I got is original equipment, functions perfectly and did 1100 miles on Route 66 last summer in 3 days without issue. I do a lot of in town driving, short hops, an have never had a problem.
Frankly, I don't know what people are paying for in those over priced radiators outside of added performance for larger engines. I've got a 79' L48 btw.
Nice thing about getting the radiator locally was when I stripped the tranny fitting, they fixed it for me. And if I had an issue with it, I know exactly where to take it.
I live in a rural town in Va no radiator shop in my town but I'm checking around. If it is not to close to what I would pay for a Direct Fit Aluminum I will just have mine reworked. I was told that I can get it taken apart and rodded out for $75.00 in the town near me but I don't know if he will or can get cores if i need it. I'm checking next week. The shop does no dip the radiators so I don't know if just rodding it will get the crap from everywhere else in the radiator.
FYI, I was told the recore would be more than replacing the radiator. I'm not into numbers matching radiators, so I junked the old one and bought the new one. If you can get it re-cored cheaper, I'd go that route.
This is a question I am trying to decide mine has a leak, do I fix or replace. The baffles if this is the correct word are not brittle or corroding. My car has the copper type but there is no identification tag/label on the top. What is the label I need and can I buy one. It is NOT the Harrison type label. Not trying to hijack your thread, some feedback would be great.