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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 08:59 PM
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1980 vette want start put a new solenoid on it prob. didn't need.
Anyway when I turn the key on this thing gets way hot.http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/v...tteprobpic.jpg

Last edited by rooster445; Mar 30, 2009 at 10:46 PM.
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 09:26 PM
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what gets hot? if its not starting how will it get hot, explain what it is doing
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 10:32 PM
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how do I post a pic
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by rooster445
how do I post a pic
You have to upload it to some web server. See Help section for details on using the free site Photobucket.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/help...al-inside.html
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 10:46 PM
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[IMG][/IMG]pics up
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 12:39 AM
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That's a ballast resistor that was added in for what looks like a Mallory ignition coil. It will get hot because it drops 12 volts down to 7-8 volts.
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 01:07 AM
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You may also have installed the wires on the starter solenoid incorrectly. Maybe not the case, but recheck your wiring schematic and your install work.
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 07:53 AM
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is that why I got 8 volts going to the start side of the solenoid
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 09:21 AM
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OK... Sounds like the solenoid is getting fed through that resistor. Not a good deal. There should be a direct line from the ignition switch "start" contact to the solenoid 'S' terminal and a line from ignition "run" contact to the resistor. Then, the solenoid 'R' terminal and the other side of the resistor get run to the positive (+) terminal on the coil. That way, the coil gets 12 volts when the engine is starting, then 8-9 volts when the engine is running. I would bet that you find the 'outlet' side of that resistor is connected to the 'S' terminal on the solenoid, and that [high] current draw is overloading the resistor.
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 06:12 AM
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would this be why the solenoid want even click because of the low voltage.
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 12:41 PM
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Yes. If the magnetic 'pull' of the coil is not great enough to overpower the return spring, that is exactly what will happen. And, even though it won't activate the solenoid, significant current to 'feed' it will be flowing through that resistor. You really need to chase down [and mark] the existing wiring and compare it to the schematic for your car. There are some wires run incorrectly, I believe. Here's how it should work:

"Start" 12 v. signal from ignition switch should be run to the "S" terminal on the solenoid. "Run" 12v. signal from the ignition switch should be run to one side of the resistor. "R" terminal on the solenoid switch should be run to the (+) terminal on the coil. Output side of the resistor should also be run to the (+) terminal on the coil. The (-) terminal of the coil should be connected to the wire coming from the distributor.

If you correct your wiring to provide as listed above, the car should work just fine. {crossed fingers} At least, that's the best I can do from a keyboard to help you.
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Old Apr 4, 2009 | 05:36 PM
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Thanks man back on the road drove it 20 miles today now I have to change the rear passenger wheel bearing wtf
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