Sequence of Re-Installing Interior
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,412
Likes: 792
From: Redondo Beach, California
Kaiserbud...about the wiring question.
After all these years, you've probably disturbed the wire routing and may have the problem that I did... being that I couldn't replace the speedo/tack panel because of interference.
What I did, was I removed the speedo/tach from the panel and tried to install it it place. Of course interference with the harness was the problem, but with the speedo/tach out I could look through the holes and see were the problem were. I could put my hands through the holes and mover things around. I had troubles with the way the harness looped around in back of the speedo/tach cans and also with the way the harness wrapped around the brace that was just above and in front of the fuse panel.
I did this with the steering column removed. I didn't replace the steering column until pretty much the end when the speedo/tach panel was fitting properly.
Replacing the interior is so time consuming. I wonder how the factory did it so quickly. Actually I think removing and replacing an engine or diff is much easier than messing with the interior.
After all these years, you've probably disturbed the wire routing and may have the problem that I did... being that I couldn't replace the speedo/tack panel because of interference.
What I did, was I removed the speedo/tach from the panel and tried to install it it place. Of course interference with the harness was the problem, but with the speedo/tach out I could look through the holes and see were the problem were. I could put my hands through the holes and mover things around. I had troubles with the way the harness looped around in back of the speedo/tach cans and also with the way the harness wrapped around the brace that was just above and in front of the fuse panel.
I did this with the steering column removed. I didn't replace the steering column until pretty much the end when the speedo/tach panel was fitting properly.
Replacing the interior is so time consuming. I wonder how the factory did it so quickly. Actually I think removing and replacing an engine or diff is much easier than messing with the interior.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,608
Likes: 3
From: TEXAS - you mean there are other states?
Thats a good technique. I have a new harness and so 'everything' is new. But... I will test fit and if that is challenging will follow your guidance. And I will save the column for last too.
Pro
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 689
Likes: 169
From: Palm Bay Florida
Hi KB,
The sequence I followed on my 71's dash was.... upper dash pad, shifter console, emergency brake console, driver's side dash pad, center gauge cluster, passenger's side dash pad.
There are many, many things that need to be done in each area as you put it together. I found the driver's dash pad and gauges, and the center gauge cluster to be the most involved and difficult.
Make sure all the gauges, switches, and vacuum controls work perfectly before you button the dash up.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
The sequence I followed on my 71's dash was.... upper dash pad, shifter console, emergency brake console, driver's side dash pad, center gauge cluster, passenger's side dash pad.
There are many, many things that need to be done in each area as you put it together. I found the driver's dash pad and gauges, and the center gauge cluster to be the most involved and difficult.
Make sure all the gauges, switches, and vacuum controls work perfectly before you button the dash up.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
I was wondering if it would be better to install the upper dash pad last.. after the drivers side dash pad and center gage cluster were in place.
Seems like you would have better access from above to ensure all of the connections have been made.
What do you think?
Last edited by ballen06; Jan 25, 2017 at 06:08 PM.
Pro
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 689
Likes: 169
From: Palm Bay Florida
Kaiserbud...about the wiring question.
After all these years, you've probably disturbed the wire routing and may have the problem that I did... being that I couldn't replace the speedo/tack panel because of interference.
What I did, was I removed the speedo/tach from the panel and tried to install it it place. Of course interference with the harness was the problem, but with the speedo/tach out I could look through the holes and see were the problem were. I could put my hands through the holes and mover things around. I had troubles with the way the harness looped around in back of the speedo/tach cans and also with the way the harness wrapped around the brace that was just above and in front of the fuse panel.
I did this with the steering column removed. I didn't replace the steering column until pretty much the end when the speedo/tach panel was fitting properly.
Replacing the interior is so time consuming. I wonder how the factory did it so quickly. Actually I think removing and replacing an engine or diff is much easier than messing with the interior.
After all these years, you've probably disturbed the wire routing and may have the problem that I did... being that I couldn't replace the speedo/tack panel because of interference.
What I did, was I removed the speedo/tach from the panel and tried to install it it place. Of course interference with the harness was the problem, but with the speedo/tach out I could look through the holes and see were the problem were. I could put my hands through the holes and mover things around. I had troubles with the way the harness looped around in back of the speedo/tach cans and also with the way the harness wrapped around the brace that was just above and in front of the fuse panel.
I did this with the steering column removed. I didn't replace the steering column until pretty much the end when the speedo/tach panel was fitting properly.
Replacing the interior is so time consuming. I wonder how the factory did it so quickly. Actually I think removing and replacing an engine or diff is much easier than messing with the interior.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,278
Likes: 4,372
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi B,
I really think installing the upper pad first is still a good idea.
With the steering column dropped you have access from both above and below the left-side dash pad and both sides of the center gauge cluster.
Also, because of the way the upper pad needs to be tilted and angled to install, (if the windshield is in place), there's more room, and it seems safer, without the lower pads in place.
Regards,
Alan
I really think installing the upper pad first is still a good idea.
With the steering column dropped you have access from both above and below the left-side dash pad and both sides of the center gauge cluster.
Also, because of the way the upper pad needs to be tilted and angled to install, (if the windshield is in place), there's more room, and it seems safer, without the lower pads in place.
Regards,
Alan
Pro
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 689
Likes: 169
From: Palm Bay Florida
Hi B,
I really think installing the upper pad first is still a good idea.
With the steering column dropped you have access from both above and below the left-side dash pad and both sides of the center gauge cluster.
Also, because of the way the upper pad needs to be tilted and angled to install, (if the windshield is in place), there's more room, and it seems safer, without the lower pads in place.
Regards,
Alan
I really think installing the upper pad first is still a good idea.
With the steering column dropped you have access from both above and below the left-side dash pad and both sides of the center gauge cluster.
Also, because of the way the upper pad needs to be tilted and angled to install, (if the windshield is in place), there's more room, and it seems safer, without the lower pads in place.
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by ballen06; Jan 28, 2017 at 09:31 AM.
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