kaiserbud

Gents - it looks like I may be able to start re-installing (over Memorial Weekend) my interior after a 6+ year body off adventure. Woohoo ! Does anyone have a sequential list of items and how I need to replace them... I took EVERYTHING out of the cabin - I mean EVERYTHING. Its a 69 Coupe, Std Brakes, P/S, A/C (will be Vintage- already purchased)

The body is back on the chassis and my concern is the interior/dash area, but also would like to cover doors, firewall, etc etc. I also Ceramic Coated my interior cabin too.... I need to grab that article on keeping heat out of the cabin area as well. Now is the time !

Thanks !

7T1vette

Now is the time for adding heat insulation and/or sound deadener. It is also the time to check-out/repair the ventilation/heat/A/C system before the interior goes back in. Don't forget the radio/speakers and gauges...check 'em and change 'em now if you want. Have fun!

mapman

You might consider doing a water leak test FIRST.

Note: BEFORE the factory installed the interior they did a water leak test.

AFTER they had a successful water leak test, THEN they installed the interior.

On the Final Trim Line (as close as I can tell from various books/articles):

Rear Compartment Trim Assembly: (Rear compartment trim sequence will be in Section E01/E12).
Thread shoulder belt through grommet and install grommet in panel.
Install rear compartment frame.
Install Center and rear roof interior headliner. (Use trim panels as drilling templates.
Install rear lower headlining panel and insulator.

Front compartment:
Rearview mirror.
Sunshades.
Front carpets/
Side door sill plate.
Front console.
Tunnel console trim.
Seats.
Outside rear view mirror.
Door trim panel liner and arm rest.
Affix labels, decals, and emblems.

Edit added:

The info is from research I did for my 1980. There will be some differences with your 1969, but this was the basic sequence.

The A.I.M. as we have it is a PRODUCT DESCRIPTION MANUAL not in assembly sequence order. Knowing the assembly sequence is useful for a body-off or major repair.

Based on my review (from various sources) of the production line in St. Louis, I created a production sequence index of the 1980 A.I.M. (e.g. I have an index of the 1980 A.I.M. pages in assembly order.)

I am doing a body-off and wanted to know what the sequence for building a car was. The St. Louis sequence did stay pretty much the same for for C2/C3 as far as I can tell and is useful for other years (although obviously not exact).

CCrane65

That sounds like a lot newer car than a 69. There were no separate arm rests in 69.

cc

mapman

True, thanks.

The info is from research I did on my 1980. I'll note that in my earlier post.

The A.I.M. as we have it is a PRODUCT DESCRIPTION MANUAL not in assembly sequence order.

Based on my review (from various sources) of the production line in St. Louis, I created a production sequence index of the 1980 A.I.M. (e.g. I have an index of the 1980 A.I.M. pages in assembly order.)

I am doing a body-off and wanted to know what the sequence for building a car was. As you noted, my post was for a later car. The St. Louis sequence did stay pretty much the same for for C2/C3 as far as I can tell and is useful for other years (although obviously not exact).

Alan 71

Hi KB,
The sequence I followed on my 71's dash was.... upper dash pad, shifter console, emergency brake console, driver's side dash pad, center gauge cluster, passenger's side dash pad.
There are many, many things that need to be done in each area as you put it together. I found the driver's dash pad and gauges, and the center gauge cluster to be the most involved and difficult.
Make sure all the gauges, switches, and vacuum controls work perfectly before you button the dash up.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

kaiserbud

Thanks for the input....

I am familiar with putting a dash back in, but with the wiring, etc out, I am concerned I may not get the 'layering' of wires correct. I would assume the overall process was the same on the 80 regarding interior as well.



Charley - did you do spray on deadener in the doors?

Mapman.... as far as water test - I did not plan on doing weatherstripping first... or are you just talking about firewall?

FYI - I will be testing all wiring harnesses before reinstalling them

mapman

Not just the firewall for the water test. The water test is described in the AIM UPC 15F. The windows and tops most likely were the priority.

The Under Dash Wiring is in AIM UPC 12H.

kaiserbud

OK - AIM..... Assembly Installation Manual, but the organization just does not seem very clear to me. For example, you go along and it will be sequential E1, E2, then E25, then E3, E4.......

Mapman - so you are saying you took another book and just put the pages in a specific order - was guided you on the order then?

mapman

The A.I.M. is a PRODUCT DESCRIPTION MANUAL. The A.I.M. is NOT in assembly sequence. A.I.M. pages relevant to the task at hand were maintained at the various assembly line stations.

I couldn't find a document that indexed the A.I.M. pages in assembly line order, so I decided to make one.

What I did was to read books and articles about the St. Louis assembly line to try to understand the build sequence. I also examined archive photographs of the assembly line to help determine build sequence.

Once I had my best understanding of the assembly sequence, I went through the A.I.M. page by page and indexed each page to that sequence.

I then took the indexed sequence and went back through the A.I.M. this time adding to the index the various NOTES, CAUTIONS,and WARNINGS from each page. The typed (small type) index is about 35 pages long.

It has been useful to me on my body-off to understand how the car was originally built.

kaiserbud

excellent research - sounds like you did it right. I will most likely copy pages and re-sort w/highlighted items to address. Good idea.

kaiserbud

Gents - need more guidance please...

1. When is the column installed - after the driver dash cluster?
2. Is the column mounted to the firewall, then OEM rubber insulation, then OEM plastic shield around column base, then carpet using PIFs?

Any pics of this area are appreciated - especially showing the dash harness making the big curve up and over the column.

Also - the carpet on the left side of the dimmer switch (no plastic imbedded pedal in my carpet) barely covers the left edge of the dimmer pedal. Any comments/pics?

And... does the fibre optics line coming through the firewall (just above the dimmer switch) just lay under the carpet and be routed to the far left side of teh bird cage - or should there be a cut in the carpet?

kaiserbud

Gee - I guees I need to address when windshield pillar moldings and weathertripping is addressed.

I should try to document my sequence and will insert updates upon ya'lls guidance:

Rear Compartment:
1. Heat/Sound Insulation
2. Install Rear Taillight Harness
Install Rear Fibre Optic Harness to Center Console
Install Rear Harness Wire to Door Jambs/Rear Dome, Rear Center Compartment
3. Rear Wheelhouse Carpet (sides)
4. Rear Center Carpet
5. Install Drains from Rear Decklid Vents
(If already installed - be careful not to damage the fragile rubber when cutting/fitting carpet)
6. After Front carpets installed ...
7. Install rear transom/bulkhead carpet
8. Install compartment lids/framing


Front Compartment:

1. Install Upper Dash
2. Install SIde windshield pillar moldings (should weatherstripping be on by now?)
3. Initially 'Thread' Dash, A/C, Power Windows, Fibre Optics, Automatic Kickdown, Harneses and Vacuum Lines
4.

Alan 71

Hi KB,
The heavy black insulation blanket was installed first.
I installed the steering column at the rag joint and firewall....loosely.. I let the column sag down as far as it would and then SUPPORTED it at the steering wheel end to take the pressure off it.
I then worked on the tach, speedo, electrics, and hoses with the dash pad close to being in place but down and back a bit. After all the connections were complete I pushed the pad up and forward to set the screws. Don't forget the small duct for the Astro Vent (do a/c cars have that?), the handle and cable for the hood release, and the accelerator pedal, arm and pivot.
Then I pushed the column up and bolted it in place and finished the vacuum over-rides and wiper stop switch. I then finished the insulation and plastic trim around the column.
I did the carpet last using the p.i.f.s The area around the dimmer switch is VERY roughly cut, even more so on original carpet than reproduction.
Hope this helps you some. Try to test EVERTHING YOU CAN as you put things together and button it up.
Regards,
Alan

Frogday

I found that it is easier to put in the e-brake console prior to putting in the rear compartments. The back center bolt on that console is a lot easier to get to if the center compartment isn't right in the way.

kaiserbud

Frogday - yes - I see where that would be beneficial.

Alan - appreciate.... so - you had the column in before the dashpad - just loose. I already have the accelerator, hood release, etc.

So - that plastic pirce that holds insulation down... the carpet does not go under it. Juts overlaps that lip on the plastic and then 2 PIFs through carpet, plastic piece, insulation and firewall.

Alan 71

Hi KB,
At least on 70-72 cars the carpet was on top of everything at the top of the footwell on the under the dash with just the pif's holding it in place.
Regards,
Alan

MyRed69

Thanks to everyone for the posts here. I'll be putting my '69 back together as soon as i get the frame back from Vansteel (and I get back in town). The interior is completely gutted also, I have lots of pix but really didn't consider the reassembly order till I saw this post. Great idea about the water test prior to the interior install, really appreciate that one. This forum is the best confidence builder going...

Dustup7T2

KB,
Another great source of confidence I found (besides all the support found through CF) was Dr. Rebuild's 11x17 laminated sheets of harness schematics.

Their descriptions (with photos of the GM connector ends) of what connector is attached with what color and what gauge wire to what receiving connector of a component, has made my reinstall less intimidating. If you don't have one, you may want to check it out on their website.

Using that along with the AIM sheets plus other tremendous sources like Willcox, even a blind man can restore everything to it's proper location.

Ok, maybe not blind but with glasses.

kaiserbud

......... but I 'DO' have glasses

you are right - I bought the Doc's laminated sheets for harnesses... MUCH better. !