When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm about to start working on my instrument panel/gauges. I want to keep the stock look and really clean up the dash and all of the face plates, vents, replace the speedo, tach and ect.
First of all where do I begin? Can you guys point me to a detailed step-by-step instructions on how to go about this project? for example how do I remove all of the parts and in what sequence?
Look at the posts form a week or so ago I think it says "White Gauges" or some thing The one guy did his all in white and man it looked so good it made me want to do it .(not)i do not have that much patience.He did the tach the speedo and all tha gauges he had Pic s tooo.
Get all the guages out of the car and send them out foe rebuild, it takes time. Convert the clock ( unless you are staying original, original). If you are going MSD get the tach converted to electric.
Ideas
JR
Hi N,
Restoring the dash is a BIG job. It's extremely complicated.
The disassembly sequence I used on my 71 was... passenger's side dash panel, center gauge bezel, driver's side dash panel, dash top pad, emergency brake console, shifter console. There are a myriad of things that need to be done at each one of those steps.
It's best to start by taking the seats and steering column out. The seats so you have room to work and the column so you can get the driver's side dash pad out. The door threshold trims and the kick panels need to come out too.
If you don't have an ASSEMBLEY INSTRUCTION MANUAL for your 71, get one now before you begin.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Do you know if any of the gauges still work (or not)? Use the A.I.M. to disassemble the dash panels and instrument cluster {don't forget to remove the oil pressure line from the back of the gauge before to pull the cluster out of the dash very far}, then test the gauges to see which ones work and which ones don't and/or need to be refaced. Often, it is merely the clear plastic lenses that need to be replaced or polished up to bring the "new" look back. But, if the gauge faces/mechanisms are damaged, they should be rebuilt by a professional shop or replaced. Give us more info on the condition of each gauge and we can offer better advice.
I am in the final throws of refurbishing the interior of my 69. I have been under the dash since Christmas, and it gets very, very tedious. If I could go back I would definitley get a new harness for under the dash.
Take [and catalog] lots of digital photos of the disassemblies. They will be invaluable when you begin reassembly {it all makes perfect sense when you are taking it apart...but wait three months and see what you can remember!}. No reason to replace the harness, unless it's been cobbled-up by a PO. Label everything you disconnect...even down to which hole that bulb went in. The harnesses are very unforgiving if you don't put it back just like it came apart.
I ordered new lenses for my guages/center panel, disassembled the instruments, cleaned the faces with a SOFT brush, obtained some day-glo orange paint at the hobby shop, masked off the faces below the needles (no tape directly applied, just used soft newspaper to protect the black faces of the guages), re-painted the needles and reassembled everything for less $$ than the shipping would have cost to send them to an "expert". With the $$$ I saved, I bought a heater control rebuild kit from Wilcox and the Vette now looks like a MILLION $$.
By going to the trouble of learning how all the C3 instruments work and how to check them out (before you decide to refurbish/replace them), you will be able to re-use and/or salvage just about all of them. That will save you a lot of money and provide you with a lot of knowledge that you can utilize in the future. For example, the ammeter which displays how many amps are flowing through the C3's 'veins' is really a millivolt meter using a length of harness wire as a current shunt which calibrates it to measure amperage. It is simple to check out and, if the coil is damaged, can usually be salvaged. The more you learn about these insturments, the less complicated they become. Ask questions (here and other sources), read manuals, etc. so that you can handle the work yourself. Or...pull 'em out, send 'em off, and write a check $$$. Good luck on your project.
thanks all for your words of advice...I'm kind of hesitant on taking on this daunting project but I know there will be lots to learn from it...I already ordered my AIM so I guess that's the start!
Nice pics.......curious though.....how much Dynamat did it take to do your car?.
"x" square feet?
I bought 2 bulk packs of 36 sq ft each, have used about 1 and 1/2 packs, so about 50-60 ft to do entire floors, hump and rear area. I will use remainder inside doors and under hood (under hood Dynamat will be over laid with black Dynaliner #11101 for heat/paint protection, and looks) Will cover the firewall Dynamat with cheap reflectix from Home Depot, for heat protection. Side exhaust, so not too worried about heat under the floorboards. Plan to double up the Dynamat on transmission hump and rear wheel wells.
Total cost for the Dynamat Extreme, about $230 off ebay.