panel door panel mounting points stripped
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 459
Likes: 1
From: Lindenhurst, Long Island, New York
panel door panel mounting points stripped
Not too long ago I replaced my window regulator on the passenger side of my car. Long story shot, I had to take the inner door panel off quite a few times. Well, apparently this stripped out the holes for pull handle and some of the other mounting hardware. Must have been weak to begin with.
My question is how do I go about repairing this? My thought was to tap the holes for a larger bolt. However, would it be better to just get a courser thread of the same diameter? Or should I do both? I know in the door pull handle, they are machine screws with a fine thread, which I assume is like that for a reason.
I just want to make sure I make the best repair possible. I realize this is a bit of a trivial question, but I never had an issue with a sheet metal threaded hole before What do you guys think?
My question is how do I go about repairing this? My thought was to tap the holes for a larger bolt. However, would it be better to just get a courser thread of the same diameter? Or should I do both? I know in the door pull handle, they are machine screws with a fine thread, which I assume is like that for a reason.
I just want to make sure I make the best repair possible. I realize this is a bit of a trivial question, but I never had an issue with a sheet metal threaded hole before What do you guys think?
Racer
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 269
Likes: 0
If you can, get yourself one of these kits...
http://www.daggertools.com/m5_view_i...m5:item=DT1440
I find them very handy. They are like little rivets that have threads inside to receive common bolts. They are pretty strong too. The most common size I use is 1/4-20 but you should be able to use the smaller sizes for your door handle.
http://www.daggertools.com/m5_view_i...m5:item=DT1440
I find them very handy. They are like little rivets that have threads inside to receive common bolts. They are pretty strong too. The most common size I use is 1/4-20 but you should be able to use the smaller sizes for your door handle.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
The door panel attachment screws shouldn't really have that much torque applied to them. The door pull handle screws will take more, as they are larger screws. My suggestion is to fill the holes 9and some extra behind the holes) with JBWeld 'putty stick' epoxy and then drill some new holes for the correctly sized screws. Then, don't put as much torque on them. {If you can get at least 3/16" thick of epoxy at each hole, it will hold up just fine.}
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 14,345
Likes: 4
From: Hartselle AL
St. Jude Donor '09
The door panel attachment screws shouldn't really have that much torque applied to them. The door pull handle screws will take more, as they are larger screws. My suggestion is to fill the holes 9and some extra behind the holes) with JBWeld 'putty stick' epoxy and then drill some new holes for the correctly sized screws. Then, don't put as much torque on them. {If you can get at least 3/16" thick of epoxy at each hole, it will hold up just fine.}
I used the putty stick product then redrilled. Worked just fine.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 459
Likes: 1
From: Lindenhurst, Long Island, New York
Thanks for the replies!
I don't know if I can get a dolly up there especially for the door handle bolts (my biggest concern) because my regulator comes very close to hitting the screw (already did hit, that started part of the problem).
I kinda liked this idea. Hoe much can they hold (in force)? I think this would work well for the door panels but not to well with my door handle.
This is pretty cool. Where do you get refills though?
I have some JB weld. It's the two part/ two tube kind you mix and spread. Is that different than the putty stick? I've never seen that.
As far as over torquing them, I don't believe I did. They were pretty weak when I first took it off. I think the damage was done before I even got there. The only one I 'helped' along was the door handle screw. The screw caused interference with my new regulator (same screw didn't hit my regulator) and one of the arms bent the screw. When trying to back it out, the threads were trashed. I didn't have too much of a choice though.
I think I'll try out the JB weld out first and see where that goes. I don't think I would be making it any worse by trying that out. I guess I need to find this putty stick.
Thanks again!
If you can, get yourself one of these kits...
http://www.daggertools.com/m5_view_i...m5:item=DT1440
I find them very handy. They are like little rivets that have threads inside to receive common bolts. They are pretty strong too. The most common size I use is 1/4-20 but you should be able to use the smaller sizes for your door handle.
http://www.daggertools.com/m5_view_i...m5:item=DT1440
I find them very handy. They are like little rivets that have threads inside to receive common bolts. They are pretty strong too. The most common size I use is 1/4-20 but you should be able to use the smaller sizes for your door handle.
The door panel attachment screws shouldn't really have that much torque applied to them. The door pull handle screws will take more, as they are larger screws. My suggestion is to fill the holes 9and some extra behind the holes) with JBWeld 'putty stick' epoxy and then drill some new holes for the correctly sized screws. Then, don't put as much torque on them. {If you can get at least 3/16" thick of epoxy at each hole, it will hold up just fine.}
As far as over torquing them, I don't believe I did. They were pretty weak when I first took it off. I think the damage was done before I even got there. The only one I 'helped' along was the door handle screw. The screw caused interference with my new regulator (same screw didn't hit my regulator) and one of the arms bent the screw. When trying to back it out, the threads were trashed. I didn't have too much of a choice though.
I think I'll try out the JB weld out first and see where that goes. I don't think I would be making it any worse by trying that out. I guess I need to find this putty stick.
Thanks again!
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Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
The 2-part 'glue-type' epoxy is not what you want to use. It is too brittle for repeated screw applications. The 'putty-stick' type comes in a clear plastic tube and looks like a stick of clay. It has both parts in a stick form and you just cut off a chunk and knead it until it mixes. Sets up in less than 5 minutes; cures hard in an hour. Cut off only what you need at the moment so you don't waste a bunch. It would be better if you could put the 'glob' on the back-side of the hole and squeeze some through the hole to spread out on the front side. That will give you a larger amount on back that will support more screw stress. Any auto parts supply or hardware store will sell the stick epoxy.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 459
Likes: 1
From: Lindenhurst, Long Island, New York
The 2-part 'glue-type' epoxy is not what you want to use. It is too brittle for repeated screw applications. The 'putty-stick' type comes in a clear plastic tube and looks like a stick of clay. It has both parts in a stick form and you just cut off a chunk and knead it until it mixes. Sets up in less than 5 minutes; cures hard in an hour. Cut off only what you need at the moment so you don't waste a bunch. It would be better if you could put the 'glob' on the back-side of the hole and squeeze some through the hole to spread out on the front side. That will give you a larger amount on back that will support more screw stress. Any auto parts supply or hardware store will sell the stick epoxy.
I'll get some and give it a shot this weekend. Thanks again!
Safety Car
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,732
Likes: 709
From: Shelton, Connecticut
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
try this
Get yourself a Vice Grips type plier. The deep head that will reach to the holes. Then, clamp the pliers closed over the open holes. This will force the metal back to the center of the hole. Almost the same as the hammer and backup pounding to fill the hole back in. Since there isn't much force on the screws or the panel, this will work.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 316
Likes: 0
From: Warwick Rhode Island
You might also consider using PEM inserts (by Penn Engineering). It's on the same idea as using the license plate anchors - you drill a larger hole and press fit them in. They're specifically designed for applications like this and can take a good amount of torque since they're knurled/press fit - and they're metal. In fact, I think some of them are hardened, depending on your application. I know that McMaster-Carr sells them as well as other industrial and machine shop suppliers (i.e. Graingers).
Here's a link;
http://www.pemnet.com/fastening_prod...for+Sheetmetal
You might just be able to request some samples instead of buying any quantities!
Here's a link;
http://www.pemnet.com/fastening_prod...for+Sheetmetal
You might just be able to request some samples instead of buying any quantities!
Last edited by Saint's Shark; May 28, 2009 at 03:56 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 459
Likes: 1
From: Lindenhurst, Long Island, New York
Get yourself a Vice Grips type plier. The deep head that will reach to the holes. Then, clamp the pliers closed over the open holes. This will force the metal back to the center of the hole. Almost the same as the hammer and backup pounding to fill the hole back in. Since there isn't much force on the screws or the panel, this will work.
You might also consider using PEM inserts (by Penn Engineering). It's on the same idea as using the license plate anchors - you drill a larger hole and press fit them in. They're specifically designed for applications like this and can take a good amount of torque since they're knurled/press fit - and they're metal. In fact, I think some of them are hardened, depending on your application. I know that McMaster-Carr sells them as well as other industrial and machine shop suppliers (i.e. Graingers).
Here's a link;
http://www.pemnet.com/fastening_prod...for+Sheetmetal
You might just be able to request some samples instead of buying any quantities!
Here's a link;
http://www.pemnet.com/fastening_prod...for+Sheetmetal
You might just be able to request some samples instead of buying any quantities!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 459
Likes: 1
From: Lindenhurst, Long Island, New York
Well, I gave the JB stick weld a shot on Saturday and seems to be holding. I definitely did not have full access behind most of these holes, but pushing the weld thru the hole and keeping a flat blade screw driver behind still seemed to work.
The ultimate test was yesterday when my girlfriend and I took the vette out to the Hamptons for a cruise. She must have shut the door 20 times yesterday and it all held
Thanks for all the advice. If this JB stick weld doesn't hold I have enough other options to keep me busy for a while.
The ultimate test was yesterday when my girlfriend and I took the vette out to the Hamptons for a cruise. She must have shut the door 20 times yesterday and it all held
Thanks for all the advice. If this JB stick weld doesn't hold I have enough other options to keep me busy for a while.
