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Been wanting to can the vacuum headlights for electric for a while now. Being the cheap b*stard that I am, I didn't want to pay big bucks for one og those kits. I know the vacuum actuators have about 4" of travel, and saw 4" linear actuator on ebay for about $150 a pair. Then I ran across a pair of Linak 4" linear actuators for $60 a pair, $75 with shipping, except that they were 24 volt instead of 12 volt. I figured what the heck. I tested them with a 12 volt battery and they moved about an inch every 3 seconds, or about 12 seconds for 4" of travel. I removed my buckets and replaced the vacuum actuators with the new electric ones. I made 2 "L" bracket housings out of steel for each one, and I replaced the original pins with 3/8" bolts. I had to modify the aluminum housing for clearance, bought a double pole, single throw toggle switch, which I mounted under the dash in the headlight overide position. The acuators sit in front of the radiator with no clearance issues, except, I had to modify the hood prop rod, shortening it about an inch, so now the hood does not open quite as far, but is still plenty accessible. They work like a charm, but take about 12 seconds to fully open or close, not bad for under $100. I should be able to sell by vacuum switches and actuators for much more than that on ebay. Then maybe, I'll buy some 12 volt actuators, which should make them open and close twice as fast. I'm sorry I did not take any pictures while the hood was still off, because they're very difficult to see with the hood on.
Been wanting to can the vacuum headlights for electric for a while now. Being the cheap b*stard that I am, I didn't want to pay big bucks for one og those kits. I know the vacuum actuators have about 4" of travel, and saw 4" linear actuator on ebay for about $150 a pair. Then I ran across a pair of Linak 4" linear actuators for $60 a pair, $75 with shipping, except that they were 24 volt instead of 12 volt. I figured what the heck. I tested them with a 12 volt battery and they moved about an inch every 3 seconds, or about 12 seconds for 4" of travel. I removed my buckets and replaced the vacuum actuators with the new electric ones. I made 2 "L" bracket housings out of steel for each one, and I replaced the original pins with 3/8" bolts. I had to modify the aluminum housing for clearance, bought a double pole, single throw toggle switch, which I mounted under the dash in the headlight overide position. The acuators sit in front of the radiator with no clearance issues, except, I had to modify the hood prop rod, shortening it about an inch, so now the hood does not open quite as far, but is still plenty accessible. They work like a charm, but take about 12 seconds to fully open or close, not bad for under $100. I should be able to sell by vacuum switches and actuators for much more than that on ebay. Then maybe, I'll buy some 12 volt actuators, which should make them open and close twice as fast. I'm sorry I did not take any pictures while the hood was still off, because they're very difficult to see with the hood on.
I would be VERY interested in your "how to" for this.
Cant bring myself to hand over $1K for a killer lites kit.
I'm a cheap bastard too.............................
The Firebird motor conversion looks a little complicated to me. The good thing about using linear actuators is that they duplicate the action of the original vacuum units pretty closely. Then you just need to fabricates the mounts, which can be done on a workbench with the whole headlight unit out of the car. The actuators have built-in auto stop at both ends of travel and overiding clutches as well. The double pole, single throw toggle switch is like $4 at Home depot, the wiring is super simple.
The Firebird motor conversion looks a little complicated to me. The good thing about using linear actuators is that they duplicate the action of the original vacuum units pretty closely. Then you just need to fabricates the mounts, which can be done on a workbench with the whole headlight unit out of the car. The actuators have built-in auto stop at both ends of travel and overiding clutches as well. The double pole, single throw toggle switch is like $4 at Home depot, the wiring is super simple.
the firebird motors aren't complicated at all... very easy
I would be VERY interested in your "how to" for this.
Cant bring myself to hand over $1K for a killer lites kit.
I'm a cheap bastard too.............................
Since when was Chris, 69myway, charging a grand for his conversion kit?? last I heard maybe 100 bux?? if that....
but then you needed the Firebird motors.....junkyard 20 bux each...
The Firebird motor conversion looks a little complicated to me. The good thing about using linear actuators is that they duplicate the action of the original vacuum units pretty closely. Then you just need to fabricates the mounts, which can be done on a workbench with the whole headlight unit out of the car. The actuators have built-in auto stop at both ends of travel and overiding clutches as well. The double pole, single throw toggle switch is like $4 at Home depot, the wiring is super simple.
Chris got me a linear actuator he was using for something in his Killer light development project....and it's in my WIPER door, I use radio shack burglar alarm magnets/switches for the limit controls on door travel...well hidden, VERY well hidden....
and 3 relays, and a timer I built....
Since when was Chris, 69myway, charging a grand for his conversion kit?? last I heard maybe 100 bux?? if that....
but then you needed the Firebird motors.....junkyard 20 bux each...
I had $1K in my little reptile brain leftover from briefly searching the topic years ago. Swear i saw an electric headlite converison kit in that price range and went "no way is it worth that"
Prob fused the two in the old RAM.
I would LOVE to throw this conversion into my project 82 ragtop, and 82 CE !!!!!!!!!
So either of you guys have video of your lites in action for comparison ?????
I had $1K in my little reptile brain leftover from briefly searching the topic years ago. Swear i saw an electric headlite converison kit in that price range and went "no way is it worth that"
Prob fused the two in the old RAM.
I would LOVE to throw this conversion into my project 82 ragtop, and 82 CE !!!!!!!!!
So either of you guys have video of your lites in action for comparison ?????
I dunno about any other units, but Chris' site is
www.mcspeed.com and look under killer lights 100 bux is his price listed today...but you need a junkyard raid too....