Moving on to the front now on the 72. All the grills are out, so lots of access. Whats the logical sequence to reinstall the headlight assemblies?? Bolt the frame to the header bars, then assemble everything while on the car?? When I removed them, I recall it was a ***** getting them out through the grill openings. Now with pretty paint I dont want to risk damage...

Thats how I'm going to proceed unless somebody chimes in...

Thanks,
Rob

 

When I installed mine the hood was off and I went in that way with them together.

 

Thanks, my hood is off too. Just so paranoid about scratching something!!!!

Rob

 

Hi Rob,
AFTER you get them installed safely be VERY careful the first time you cycle them. More than one door has opened too far and hit the surround. You really need to be careful as to how the stops are adjusted.
The paint on your car does look FABULOUS!
Regards,
Alan

 

I installed the housing then then installed the bezels afterwards, they will slip in.
It is a tight fit getting them in, cover the painted surface with papaer and tape to protect the paint. Still wrestling one of them, 1 mounting corner refuses to line up,
after i got them centered properly, if I pull it in far enough to start the screw , it pulls the aligment off center, I think I am gonna have to enlarge the hole in the housing slightly. 69VETT

 

Hey Rob,

Avoid another do-over and tape the surround and the headlight assembly edges before you install them.

I installed mine as a complete assembly sans the bezel.

Like Alan says, be very carefull when you lift them the first time.

 

Perfect time for this thread. I'll be ready to install mine soon too.

So far in this thread:

1) They can be installed from the back with the hood off (and I'm assuming, the engine and radiator(s) in the car?

2) They can go back in through the headlight opening .

Are either/both of these solutions with the vacuum canister in place -or- do they assume that's added later. Are both of these solutions with both halves of the assembly together?

Thanks for your patience! There's a lot of variables here.

 

I put mine in from the bottom (valance removed) as complete units including the actuators.

 

I put mine in thru the grill area with the bottom valance in place,
as complete units including the actuators. 69VETT

 

I wanted to do it this way but can't imagine how...guaranteed paint trasher if it's possible at all.


I went in from behind with the hood off, rad and support were out so I had lots of room.

Don't do this job if you're tired or frustrated...slow and steady all the way. Have a helper nearby to keep things honest when you're almost in place.

TAPE and PROTECT!!! Seriously, don't whack that awesome orange paint. Cover the entire top of each assembly with a light waxed cardboard or multi layer craft paper cut to fit and seal it flush around the edges with the proper tape...use common sense, something that will protect from minor abrasion but won't do any damage itself when in place or being removed after installation. Absolutely protect the openings in the nose, especially at the rear. Nothing too thick because the interference between the parts is pretty tight, but tough enough to...you get the idea.

"Assembled housing unit" means the door and the frame along with the actuator, the headlight cups, and all of the linkage. I honestly don't think you can put the disassembled frame in followed by the door and the other components since I think you need to deform the frame to get the pivots apart. Also it's just too tight in there and more risky than a careful feed of the complete unit. You may want to disconnect the main pivot to let the door swing wider and give you a little easier access to the front bolts. Headlights and bezels get added after the fact.

I found that you have to slip the entire assembled housing into the opening from below/behind and get the front mounts of the housing to set on the frame ledge. Put the center rear bolt in, just enough to keep it in place, then start the front bolts. Do the outside one first since it's a bear to get too and you'll need to shuffle things around a bit to get it started. I had to come in from the back and reach up under the assembly to get these outer bolts started since I'm impossibly right handed and couldn't get it with my left. Tricky.

The vulnerable spot for me was at the rear where the extension of the bezel that is molded into the actual assembly will bash up against the rear of the opening if you're not careful. Add extra protection here because the molded bezel extension is pretty gnarly and will dig into the glass.

Next I would follow with starting the inner front bolts and get them just snug enough to align the system. Do a quick align, add the rears then start to tighten down all around.

Adjustments for alignment in the opening (front/back) are made from the rear, three bolts each connecting the pivot to the housing from outside. Left/right door adjustments are made from from the front using the small collars that hold the pivot pins...LOOSEN THEN RESNUG THE ALLEN SCREWS ON THE PIVOT COLLARS BEFORE YOU INSTALL THE UNITS! They can be pretty stuck and once in place nasty to try to get broken free. Personally, I went around one bolt at at a time, broke them free and retightetned each one before installing in case I needed to adjust. I did so it was good foresight.

TAPE PROTECT TAPE PROTECT TAPE PROTECT.....

Best of luck...can't wait to see the end result,
Steve