Hi guys, I am going to be getting my car back from the body shop this week (finally) and need to start thinking about how I should register it. It is not registered now and I would like to register it right away so I can put insurance on it. Here's my question though (and I'm sure it's come up here before). I live in PA and the car has no cats, pumps or emissions stuff on it. The motor is a motor I built and used in my last toy. The mufflers have a cap on them that can be removed to essentially run an open exhaust. I don't plan on removing that cap, but it's there. Am I better off registering the 77 as a classic or antique? What is the process I am going to have to go through? I just don't want to have to go see someone I know who has helped me in the past when I needed to pass inspection. I'm not worried about annual emissions because I won't be going over 5000 miles (plus antique/classic don't require emissions). I also know that antique doesn't require an inspection but classic does. One of my concerns is that I have to take pictures of all four sides of the car. They do this to make sure the car is conforming to "factory standards." The reason for my concern is that I don't plan on putting the antenna back on the car (it has been filled by the body shop) and I don't (at this point) plan on putting back on the fender emblems. Other than that (aside from the obviously not stock exhaust) the car will look close to stock. Any input will be appreciated! Thanks, Neal

 

i also live in pa go with the classic tag you can still drive it a night the 4 pictures you will need are both sides front and back with the windows CLOSED it has to appear to be stock no fancy wheels or hood no crazy paint job i think that if you have side pipes on the car that should be ok to get the tag good luck i will be going for mine in the spring i hope so unless i sell it first

 

you shouldnt have to worry about all of the cats or pumps and stuff like that i also know that the price is $75.00 for the plate

 

Do you think that the lack of an radio antenna and side emblems will be a problem? Also, the pipes are not side pipes...here's a picture without the bumpers on to give you an idea of what the mufflers look like...

I'm not worried at all about the paint. It's Steel Cities Gray all around, so nothing crazy there. -Neal

 

you should put tail pipes on it just for the pictures the emblems you might get away with i am not sure you can always use old ones and just 2way tape on them just for the pictures

 

What kind of insurance coverage do you carry on the car? What are the guidelines for the 'classic car' plate? ...for the 'antique' plate? Is anything over 25 years old an 'antique' in PA? How many miles per year, etc. are allowed with either plate? And, finally, how do you plan on using the car?

 

good ideas. i do have some new emblems to put on the car but i really like the way the fender looks w/out them...at least for now. -Neal

 

I know I qualify for either plate in terms of age of the car. I'm not sure yet what I'm going to do for insurance. In terms of classic or antique here is what the dmz says: "Antique motor vehicle—A motor vehicle, but not a reproduction thereof, manufactured more than 25 years prior to the current year, which has been maintained in or restored to a condition which is substantially in conformance with manufacturer specifications.

Classic motor vehicle—A self-propelled vehicle, but not a reproduction thereof, manufactured more than 10 years prior to the current year and because of discontinued production and limited availability, determined by the Department to be a model or make of significant value to collectors or exhibitors, and which has been maintained in or restored to a condition which is substantially in conformance with manufacturer specifications and appearance."
"§ 67.3. Application for antique or classic registration plates.

(a) Application. Application for antique or classic registration plates shall be made on forms issued by the Department.

(b) Supplemental documents. The application shall be accompanied by four color photographs—front, rear and both sides—of the vehicle for which the application is being submitted. The photographs shall be clear and the condition of the vehicle easily ascertainable from them. The photographs shall be submitted in accordance with instructions provided by the Department.

(c) Additional information required for classic vehicles. If a vehicle is to be registered as a classic, the applicant may be required to provide the Department with documentation that one or more of the following conditions has been met:

(1) The production of the particular make or model has been discontinued.

(2) The vehicle was manufactured as a limited edition or is otherwise of limited availability.

(3) The vehicle is of a model or make that is of significant value to collectors or exhibitors.

(4) The vehicle is substantially in conformance with manufacturer specifications and appearance so as to qualify for participation in organized club activities, exhibits, tours and parades.

(d) Other means of transportation. An applicant for antique or classic registration shall maintain regular registration on another motor vehicle for personal transportation. If the registration is not maintained the applicant shall sign an affidavit indicating the type of transportation that he uses on a regular basis."

-Neal

 

An antique vehicle can be driven at night as long as it has modern headlights. This means that a vette is ok. This is in the law because of really old cars with gas lantern lights and cars with 6 volt systems.

 

So why wouldn't I go with antique as opposed to classic? Is there a down side to antique? Then I wouldn't need to worry at all about inspection or emissions annually. I don't plan on driving the car much. no where near 3000 miles a year. I do definitely want to drive it at night though.

I guess that's why the PA DMV added this to the bottom of their form: "Antique vehicles operated exclusively between sunrise
and sunset are exempt from the normal lighting requirements of the Pennsylvania Vehicle Code but must have their original
lighting equipment."

Basically this means to me that as long as my lights work the way they were supposed to work in 1977 I'll be ok. My only concern is the dang exhaust. We will see what happens I guess! -Neal

 

I'm from PA also and did some research on this for my 68.
As stated in the last post, you CAN drive it at night because it has all the modern lighting. Both of the tags state that it's use is for shows parades, and "occasional" driving(read as weekend driving). They are both one time payment tags. The biggest difference is that antique tags do not require an inspection, were as classic requires a yearly inspection. For this reason I would go for antique(inspections are a pain)The car MUST be as it left the factory. I know people that have been rejected because they had a vanity plate(corvette,chevy,phillies,steelers.. .ect) on the front.(only rear plate needed in PA in case others are wondering) I'm not sure if they will notice the antenna, but don't be surprised. Only thing to do is give it a try and see what happens.

 

I have stock wheels too which might help draw their attention away from the missing emblems and antenna...although I might just stick the emblems on for the picture. -Neal

 

In the PA statutes, is there some provision for "faking" the picture, as in taping on tailpipes that arent really there? I would imagine a deliberate misrepresentation could carry a penalty.

 

Ok then I'll leave them and the emblems on. No big woop. -Neal

 

God I'm glad I don't live in PA!

 

gee thanks

 

I think he means because of the crazy regulations, not PA in general.

I have a couple cars with PA antique plates and a couple with PA classic plates. I drive them all fairly regularly and at all hours and I have never had a problem in 18 years. Annual inspection with the classic plate is the only difference.

They ARE sticklers with the photos though and usually know their stuff. However, sometimes they get their facts wrong, like when it comes to C3 luggage racks. If your car looks pretty stock in the photos, you should be okay. Not that I condone it, but I do know of people who have sent pics of correct cars very similar to their own with the logic that they could plead that they made modifications afterwards if an issue ever comes up. Not that I condone doing this...

Terry

 

Here are some smilar threads on PA plates and mods that may help:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...ion-in-pa.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...que-plate.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...-question.html

 

Based on the info above, I think you should go the "antique" route for two reasons: antiques do not require inspections; antique cars can still have counterparts that are still in production [like Corvettes]. I think the info above indicated that "classics" are vehicles that are no longer being produced. I think of a C3 as a "classic" car...but PA regulations would lean towards it being an "antique".

 

I have had Classic plates on my '76 for about 10 years. I drive it when I want, without problems. No smog stuff.

Believe it or not, I went with Classic plates so my regular garage looks at it, if I want them to, for safety inspection, plus I wanted to give them some income on the 'vette in addition to my other vehicles.

This has worked out well. They did an excellent 4 wheel alignment for their regular price. They lent me an engine hoist when I was changing engines, and other special tools I needed. They also have some sort of expensive on line service for trouble shooting newer cars, that I have used in the past. No charge and I fix most things myself.

It is good to have a local garage you trust, and they trust you.