SEM Paint - Bezel Paint Color
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,608
Likes: 3
From: TEXAS - you mean there are other states?
SEM Paint - Bezel Paint Color
Is SEM 15243 Satin Black the same color/type paint as SEM 39143 Trim Black? Same Quality???
My goal is to repaint my Speedo/Tach dash bezels.
I researched CF and found Krylon Semi Flat is suggested color for this purpose as well... just thought SEM might be better quality
My goal is to repaint my Speedo/Tach dash bezels.
I researched CF and found Krylon Semi Flat is suggested color for this purpose as well... just thought SEM might be better quality
CF Community Team
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,285
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From: Delaware
St. Jude Donor '25
This was also suggested to me by a vendor at Carlisle.......Anyone know where to get it? He seemed to think it was superior to the others......
another vendor who specializes in restoring shift/ bezel plates recommended the Krylon 1613 (I thnk it was discintinued but I stocked up).....
I'm going to try the SEM.
another vendor who specializes in restoring shift/ bezel plates recommended the Krylon 1613 (I thnk it was discintinued but I stocked up).....
I'm going to try the SEM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
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From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
I used Krylon. Old formula Krylon (five ball) is still available as an industrial coating. http://www.kpg-industrial.com/produc...on_industrial/
Last edited by Easy Mike; Oct 13, 2009 at 10:08 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2009
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2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
I used SEM #39143 for engine compartment blackout as well as the wheel wells. It supposedly gives the same sheen as the Krylon #1613 and dries harder, making it less prone to scratches. My opinion, the SEM looks good but the cans sputtered excessively. I shook them 'til my arms felt like they were gonna fall off. Still spit like crazy.
Now when I used the Martin Senour line by NAPA (Chassis Black #7243 and Lacquer Black #7254 for brackets, etc), the entire cans sprayed perfectly with a very even pattern. Very good stuff.
Now when I used the Martin Senour line by NAPA (Chassis Black #7243 and Lacquer Black #7254 for brackets, etc), the entire cans sprayed perfectly with a very even pattern. Very good stuff.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,160
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From: Westminster Maryland
Hi KB,
The 'old' 5 ball #1613 was what everyone loved. The 'new 5 ball is a different formula and was designed to be 1 coat.... you can not recoat with it.... ever.
Go to www.kpg-industrial.com. Click on Aerosol Paints, then click on Industrial Maintenance paints, then on the Products list click on 5 Ball (Interior-Exterior). Follow the info there.
Thanks to Frank Paschal, NCRS, THE CORVETTE RESTORER, Vol 36, No.2
Regards,
Alan
The 'old' 5 ball #1613 was what everyone loved. The 'new 5 ball is a different formula and was designed to be 1 coat.... you can not recoat with it.... ever.
Go to www.kpg-industrial.com. Click on Aerosol Paints, then click on Industrial Maintenance paints, then on the Products list click on 5 Ball (Interior-Exterior). Follow the info there.
Thanks to Frank Paschal, NCRS, THE CORVETTE RESTORER, Vol 36, No.2
Regards,
Alan
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Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Crossville TN
I've used the [new] Krylon 'Fusion' semi-flat black and it works and looks the same as the prior type (different paint carrier chemistry, I think). Alan, I've put multiple coats of this 'Fusion' paint on parts and had no problem.??
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,160
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From: Westminster Maryland
Hi Charley,
I'm not sure what all the different versions of Krylon there are now.
Is Fusion a different product?
I don't doubt your results. Did you find the Fusion to be ANY different than the OLD #1613 we've used for years?
It would be good if we could use the Fusion since the industrial version of the old #1613 is more of a hassle to get. Thanks!
Regards,
Alan
I'm not sure what all the different versions of Krylon there are now.
Is Fusion a different product?
I don't doubt your results. Did you find the Fusion to be ANY different than the OLD #1613 we've used for years?
It would be good if we could use the Fusion since the industrial version of the old #1613 is more of a hassle to get. Thanks!
Regards,
Alan
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Syracuse NY
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Palm Bay Fl
Your shifter plate looks great, I wish mine was in that condition, my chrome trim around the edges are pitted pretty bad. I am looking though so hopefully I will find a nice one that I can restore as well.
Rob
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Crossville TN
Looking at that C3 shift bezel on the J.D. tractor, I can almost hear Tool Time Tim Taylor doing his "guy-growl". Is there a souped-up Chevy SB in that tractor? 
Alan: The only difference I've noticed is the length of time it takes for the new Krylon paint to dry...seems like 2-3 times as long.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Syracuse NY
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Westminster Maryland
Hi Charley,
That's one of the things I was afraid of. The old #1613 'flashed' so quickly that dust wasn't usually any problem.
I also think I have a family of fruit flies that live in my garage and come out to investigate when ever they hear me shake up a spray can.
Thanks!
Regards,
Alan
Ps: Does the Fusion can state it's formulated for plastic? I kind of remember reading that somewhere.
That's one of the things I was afraid of. The old #1613 'flashed' so quickly that dust wasn't usually any problem.
I also think I have a family of fruit flies that live in my garage and come out to investigate when ever they hear me shake up a spray can.
Thanks!
Regards,
Alan
Ps: Does the Fusion can state it's formulated for plastic? I kind of remember reading that somewhere.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,608
Likes: 3
From: TEXAS - you mean there are other states?
thanks guys... going to paint store after work.
2 Questions though...
On the tach bezel, the paint is gone down to the chrome - although I hear the SEM does not need primer I was going to do so anyway...
On another issue - my shifter plate could use some touch up... what is the best method to scuff the 'grainy' areas.... scottbrite?... red or grey?
2 Questions though...
On the tach bezel, the paint is gone down to the chrome - although I hear the SEM does not need primer I was going to do so anyway...
On another issue - my shifter plate could use some touch up... what is the best method to scuff the 'grainy' areas.... scottbrite?... red or grey?
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
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From: Crossville TN
It's best to completely strip any old paint from the metal bezel and similar parts. Chemical stripper is the easiest way...and you won't do any surface damage to the chrome/metal like blasting, sandpaper, wire brush would do. Then clean it really well with dish detergent (or just run it through the dishwasher); rinse and dry thoroughly. If you decide to prime it first, you will need to use an X-acto knife/razor blade to trim the tacky primer off the areas that should stay chrome. Prime it, then wait 15-20 minutes; trim off primer from the 'chrome' areas...do not try to brush off the trimmings yet. When the primer has dried, brush off the excess trimmings. Shoot the first coat of black; wait 10 minutes, then shoot another coat. Let paint dry for 20-30 minutes, then follow same procedure as with primer.
