When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
It pops out from the outside, but only after you remove the nuts on the inside. You have to pull door panel and if I remember correctly, there are two nuts holding it in. You have to disconnect the linkage first before you remove. Of course, the nuts are a PITA to get to. Just take you time and you can replace.
This is why im just thinking about pulling the handles and shaving the doors and gettint an electronic popper. Too much crap to break (And it has repeatedly) and to hard to get to it.
The door lock mechanism is very sturdy and reliable...IF it is not gummed up from 40 years of grease/dirt/crud and it is set up right. An electronic "popper" [as you call it] only replaces the finger-trip device....not the linkages nor the latch mechanism. You will be wasting your money, unless you just want to have electronic "do-dads" on your car. Open it up, clean it [all] up, repair any damage, lube it properly....then forget about it for another 20 years or so.
and when you bolt it back in, just use one nuts, it more than holds in it place. I'm convinced the second nut was chevy's way of pissing us off decades later
Mine is already rigged up with wire in one place, But something let go in the handle part bc it wont open from the outside and i cant see anything visible that isnt working. Door panels are already off.
The flap on the door hold just actuates a linkage rod going to the latch mechanism (or it may go to a bell-crank which re-directs another linkage rod to do that task). Chances are the linkage rod is bent, or loose, or the retainer on it came undone.
if you find a selenoid that will pull the latch mechanism, let me know.... i shaved my handles and locks and to this day i still havent been able to rig up a system to pull the latch.... you could see if you can find a replacment latch that doesnt need a lot of pressure or maybe an electronic latch.... best thing to do for now is to wire your remote/switch/etc to your windows so you can roll them down and open from the inside. you will need to wire the main window wire hott from the battery since the windows only work with the ignition key on..
The flap on the door hold just actuates a linkage rod going to the latch mechanism (or it may go to a bell-crank which re-directs another linkage rod to do that task). Chances are the linkage rod is bent, or loose, or the retainer on it came undone.
If your talking about the bar thats about 5 inches long and goes straight down. Its not that. That has came out a few times due to no retainer but i can see it through the inside of the door and its attached.
if you find a selenoid that will pull the latch mechanism, let me know.... i shaved my handles and locks and to this day i still havent been able to rig up a system to pull the latch.... you could see if you can find a replacment latch that doesnt need a lot of pressure or maybe an electronic latch.... best thing to do for now is to wire your remote/switch/etc to your windows so you can roll them down and open from the inside. you will need to wire the main window wire hott from the battery since the windows only work with the ignition key on..
b
Albeit not the smoothest entry to reach in to get the door open that is a pretty good idea and setup to get the job done. As of right now the passenger side works so i can still get in but if it craps out then im screwed.
take the screws out of the door latch mechanism on the back of door, then the latch drops down, allowing much better access to the nut on the back. It wasn't a huge deal to me.
a word to the wise...get a ratcheting wrench. a ratchet and socket wont fit easily and a box wrench is a PITA because the nut wont turn enough to get the wrench on it more than once. If you don't have a set already, you will wonder why you never got them earlier after the first time you use it! -Neal
If your talking about the bar thats about 5 inches long and goes straight down. Its not that. That has came out a few times due to no retainer but i can see it through the inside of the door and its attached.
Tha rod allows for an adjustment. If it is too long or too short it will not function properly. It has to be rigged to work. If you can open the door from the inside look at the travel in the latch mech. The try to actuate the latch from the out side handle while looking at the travel in the latch. You may find that the rod is too short and is not moving the latch far enough to un-latch. You just need to spin the rod end that attaches to the leaver to lenghin it. When you reassemple you will need that retainer clip in place or the problem will just continue later.
For removing the 2 nuts it just takes patents. And yes you need to reinstall both nuts. I like to use a blade around the handles seem so not the chip any paint that may be bonding to it. If you dont replace both nuts you risk the handle moving in its place over time and chipping the paint.
Last edited by Aggitated Monkey; Oct 27, 2009 at 10:06 PM.
Take your time and disconnect the linkage and remove the two nuts, I have fairly large bubba hands and I took both of mine off to paint the car and put them back on. I took a little blood and cussing but it can be done in about an hour per door. I even tried spraying adhesive on my fingers to keep from dropping the nuts.
I dont think its the rod length, It was working and then stopped all of a sudden. When it stops raining ill try to work on it and see. May take me about a week with my patience. Lol.
after i r/r the outside handles, i found that the rod that is attached to the handle wouldn't depress the mechanism enough to open the door. because of the way the rod is attached to the bellcrank, i had to remove the handle and adjust. is there any way to adjust this rod without removing the handle?