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so before i start let me be sure...to adjust the e-brake at the rear wheels i have to remove the brakes and the rotor to reveal the adjusting star. that sounds like crazy 70s engineering.even the vw bug adjusts from the inside rear. 1970 vette. thanks for your quick help. my car is on stands waiting for me to start.
That is not correct. You remove the rear wheels and line up the large holes in the rotor with the adjusting star at the bottom of the axle. Then you turn the star from the top to the bottom of the hole until the rotor will not move then back off about 3 clicks until you can just move it.
cc
PS You really should buy a shop manual. The procedure is covered in there. They are not very expensive.
Last edited by CCrane65; Nov 14, 2009 at 05:00 PM.
Mako I can't even imagine what happened to your car but I shudder to think.
I must say though mine works fine even on my steep driveway. I burnished the shoes according to the procedure in the manual and it works. They smelled pretty hot when I was done that's for sure.
Hi 7d,
Have you checked to see if the cable needs to be tightened which can be done under the center of the car?
Regards,
Alan
thanks alan. the cable pulley was modified when the crossmember was modified to accept 5sp tremec trans. no more adjustment left. i'll remodify it later. matt
That is not correct. You remove the rear wheels and line up the large holes in the rotor with the adjusting star at the bottom of the axle. Then you turn the star from the top to the bottom of the hole until the rotor will not move then back off about 3 clicks until you can just move it.
cc
PS You really should buy a shop manual. The procedure is covered in there. They are not very expensive.
confession... i have a manual but always feel more comfotable "talking" to real people like me if i can. thanks for your help. imade it better with your help. the only real problem was that it was difficult to determine brake drag versus the resistance of the posi rear. i think i'll do it again and sneak up on it. thanks matt
confession... i have a manual but always feel more comfotable "talking" to real people like me if i can. thanks for your help. imade it better with your help. the only real problem was that it was difficult to determine brake drag versus the resistance of the posi rear. i think i'll do it again and sneak up on it. thanks matt
If you jack both rear wheels and put the car on jack stands, the rear wheels will rotate pretty easily (transmission in neutral). One will spin forward, the other toward the rear. Then you can adjust the brakes as noted above.
That is not correct. You remove the rear wheels and line up the large holes in the rotor with the adjusting star at the bottom of the axle. Then you turn the star from the top to the bottom of the hole until the rotor will not move then back off about 3 clicks until you can just move it.
cc
PS You really should buy a shop manual. The procedure is covered in there. They are not very expensive.
Is this an example of a good shop manual for the c3? http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...10&dept_id=226
Or is there year specific ones out there?
I think I need to get one myself to help me on my epairs.
thanks
If you jack both rear wheels and put the car on jack stands, the rear wheels will rotate pretty easily (transmission in neutral). One will spin forward, the other toward the rear. Then you can adjust the brakes as noted above.
I hate to disagree and this has nothing to do with ebrake adjustment but if the posi is good both wheels will spin the same way. An open diff will have the wheels travel in opposite direction but a posi should spin the same way. If they spin opposite the posi is probably worn out.
If you jack both rear wheels and put the car on jack stands, the rear wheels will rotate pretty easily (transmission in neutral). One will spin forward, the other toward the rear. Then you can adjust the brakes as noted above.
Besides the question of the posi being defunct I always found it difficult to turn the rear wheels when they were off the ground due to the angles that the wheeels were hanging, putting a serious bind on the 1/2 shaft u-joints. That and the fact the adjusters are usually non-movable. Do-able, but sometimes difficult,,, Good luck
Peace, Moosie
Is this an example of a good shop manual for the c3? http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...10&dept_id=226
Or is there year specific ones out there?
I think I need to get one myself to help me on my epairs.
thanks
I have that one and it is ok but it covers too many C3's that are vastly different. It's better to get one that is specific to your year like the Chassis Service Manual. They started combining different bodied cars in them so you still have to hunt out the pages that cover Corvette in each section but once you get there it is very specific.
Besides the question of the posi being defunct I always found it difficult to turn the rear wheels when they were off the ground due to the angles that the wheeels were hanging, putting a serious bind on the 1/2 shaft u-joints. That and the fact the adjusters are usually non-movable. Do-able, but sometimes difficult,,, Good luck
Peace, Moosie
Yeah, to do this right you need to put jack stands under the trailing arms on each side so the axles sit straight.