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My original center console (the big shifter one, not the park brake one) is missing all 4 tabs that the shifter plate screws into. I see a "repair kit" offered on ebay and the same kit is offered by Willcox (around $36).. I called Willcox and we cant seem to figure out how the kit attaches to the console. Tommy (at Willcox) is working on it for me.
Has anyone used this kit? A new console is $170, and mine is perfect except for the tabs.
NOTE** It appears that the new mounting tabs "glue" to the console (Tommy suggests and I agree that a 2-part epoxy is the way to go)
Thanks,
Rob
Last edited by MakoShark72; Nov 16, 2009 at 10:34 AM.
You can make your own tabs by using JB Weld 2-part or stick epoxy to attach light metal or durable plastic strips to the underside of the areas where the tabs are broken. After the epoxy hardens, set the top plate in place and mark the location of the 4 holes on the 'new' tabs. Drill holes and install (4) sheet metal U-clips (hardware store) for the size screws you are using (I think they are #8 screws). Just pull the screws down 'snug'...instead of cranking them tight [which is likely why yours are broken off]. Don't make the new strips too long/large or you will get into interference problems with installing the 'goodies' into the tunnel area.
You can make your own tabs by using JB Weld 2-part or stick epoxy to attach light metal or durable plastic strips to the underside of the areas where the tabs are broken. After the epoxy hardens, set the top plate in place and mark the location of the 4 holes on the 'new' tabs. Drill holes and install (4) sheet metal U-clips (hardware store) for the size screws you are using (I think they are #8 screws). Just pull the screws down 'snug'...instead of cranking them tight [which is likely why yours are broken off]. Don't make the new strips too long/large or you will get into interference problems with installing the 'goodies' into the tunnel area.
7T1,
Sometimes I miss the obvious!! Of course I can do that!! In fact, I have an old P-brake console that could work as the perfect donor.
Specifically, which JB product is the best for this kind of plastic? I need to repair one of the "dog leg" side trim pieces that mount behind the seat.
Rob, I used the repair kit. It contains 4 aluminum metal tabs that are bent just enough to make the exposed surface flush with the broken fiberglass. I used 2 part epoxy to attach them to the console. I was quite liberal with the epoxy filling in all around the edges of the tabs.
Rob, I used the repair kit. It contains 4 aluminum metal tabs that are bent just enough to make the exposed surface flush with the broken fiberglass. I used 2 part epoxy to attach them to the console. I was quite liberal with the epoxy filling in all around the edges of the tabs.
Been there for three years with no issues.
cc
Is there a special type of 2-part epoxy to bond metal to plastic?
JB Weld has 2-part epoxy and stick type epoxy (knead it and use it) that will work very well. The stick type works quicker but it's a bit messier {is that a word?}. You will need to clean and rough-up the surfaces to be 'epoxied' with some 100 grit sandpaper, then hold them in place while they cure. Small clamps or even binder clips will work.
JB Weld has 2-part epoxy and stick type epoxy (knead it and use it) that will work very well. The stick type works quicker but it's a bit messier {is that a word?}. You will need to clean and rough-up the surfaces to be 'epoxied' with some 100 grit sandpaper, then hold them in place while they cure. Small clamps or even binder clips will work.
Thanks, havent seen the stick type. I'm sure I have the 2 part already somewhere in the garage... looks like 2 large connected syringes?? With one "plunger"??
Thanks, havent seen the stick type. I'm sure I have the 2 part already somewhere in the garage... looks like 2 large connected syringes?? With one "plunger"??
Thanks again!
That epoxy will work. I was beat to the suggestion, but I also would have made my own by laying up a few layers of fiberglass cloth.
I think a good way to do this is to first cut out a piece of card board to the shape of the complete console opening. Cover one side with wax paper and wrap it around the edges & tape it snug. Position it with the wax paper in the opening and securely tape in place flush with the inner surface where the tabs will be formed. The wax paper prevents the card board from sticking to the epoxied tabs once cured. Turn the console upside down to work on the underside and pre cut the fiber glass pieces. I'd cut at least 3 per tab for strength. Sand the inner surfaces as stated earlier. Mix the epoxy and lay in your fiber glass. After it's cured, pull the card board/wax paper away and sand the tabs to their final shape and spray with some satin black. Use the u-bolts mentioned earlier.
Glenn
I have the same problem and was going to fab up some tabs,but rather than use epoxy I like to use "gorilla glue". Typically this has worked well for me in most areas that do not have torsional stress.
If "Gorilla Glue" is not an epoxy (I don't know anything about it), it will work for a while; but when it ages it will probably fail...especially if used on plastics. I've never had any long-term luck with any type of "glue" unless it was attached with fasteners also.
I used fiberglass cloth and resin. It goes on great and you can file back the tabs to the original contours once you are finished. It is a very easy repair and permanent, as the original is fiberglass already. You can also repair structural cracks in the console as well.
If "Gorilla Glue" is not an epoxy (I don't know anything about it), it will work for a while; but when it ages it will probably fail...especially if used on plastics. I've never had any long-term luck with any type of "glue" unless it was attached with fasteners also.
Gorilla Glue is for BONDING - and great at it! I use it all the time for wood projects.
JBWeld is amazing for FORMING - I have used it for everything from steel to granite with great results. It would work fine for this.
When I repaired my tabs, I used "West System" 2 part resin with "Forming" powder (there are a few types: bonding, forming, filleting, filling, etc.) and it has held for a few years now. It also makes great repairs when used with Fiberglass cloth.
We use a glue called "Plastic Fusion" or "Plastic Weld" both are two part epoxy and will adhere to the ABS of the shifter console. It is also great for fixing just about any problem with ABS plastics and cures quick and can be painted.
Most local parts stores carry some form of this and it is available at Mejeirs and Wal-mart too!
Rob, I used the repair kit. It contains 4 aluminum metal tabs that are bent just enough to make the exposed surface flush with the broken fiberglass. I used 2 part epoxy to attach them to the console. I was quite liberal with the epoxy filling in all around the edges of the tabs.
Been there for three years with no issues.
cc
i used the same kit on mine w/the plastic weld. my center console is now Rock Solid, i was quite impressed w/the kit and how easy it was to do. i did it around 5yrs ago and it's still Rock Solid