Two Questions on Total Timing
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 348
Likes: 2
From: Lowell MA
Two Questions on Total Timing
Own a 1969 L46. 350 cu, 350 hp, 380 ftlbs. Read Lar's article and another's on total timing in great lengh. Both suggest to remove the springs from the weights in the distributor prior to setting the distributor for total timing..
One suggested to hold the weights back with elastic bands while doing the setup and the other made no such mention on holding the weights back.
Question 1:Which way should I do it?
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Both suggested weaker springs be installed if total timing can't be achieved with the original springs reattached with rpm running at max of 3000 give or take.
Question 2: If springs need to be replaced, where can they be purchased and aren't there different spring strenghs?
Thanks,
John
One suggested to hold the weights back with elastic bands while doing the setup and the other made no such mention on holding the weights back.
Question 1:Which way should I do it?
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Both suggested weaker springs be installed if total timing can't be achieved with the original springs reattached with rpm running at max of 3000 give or take.
Question 2: If springs need to be replaced, where can they be purchased and aren't there different spring strenghs?
Thanks,
John
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 2,675
Likes: 13
From: Sudbury MA
John,
I too sent my carb for my 68 LeMans blue Corvette to Lars.
He tunes them and then actually installs them on a car at his location to set them up just the way they should be. Then he removes it and sends it back to you.
He only did my carb, I did not get a chance to send him my distributor and then he stopped doing work for others because he wanted to spend more time on his own projects, the last I heard.
By the way, welcome to the Forum.
Kurt
68 t-top L79
I too sent my carb for my 68 LeMans blue Corvette to Lars.
He tunes them and then actually installs them on a car at his location to set them up just the way they should be. Then he removes it and sends it back to you.
He only did my carb, I did not get a chance to send him my distributor and then he stopped doing work for others because he wanted to spend more time on his own projects, the last I heard.
By the way, welcome to the Forum.
Kurt
68 t-top L79
Racer
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 323
Likes: 0
From: CA
Own a 1969 L46. 350 cu, 350 hp, 380 ftlbs. Read Lar's article and another's on total timing in great lengh. Both suggest to remove the springs from the weights in the distributor prior to setting the distributor for total timing..
One suggested to hold the weights back with elastic bands while doing the setup and the other made no such mention on holding the weights back.
Question 1:Which way should I do it?
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Both suggested weaker springs be installed if total timing can't be achieved with the original springs reattached with rpm running at max of 3000 give or take.
Question 2: If springs need to be replaced, where can they be purchased and aren't there different spring strenghs?
Thanks,
John
One suggested to hold the weights back with elastic bands while doing the setup and the other made no such mention on holding the weights back.
Question 1:Which way should I do it?
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Both suggested weaker springs be installed if total timing can't be achieved with the original springs reattached with rpm running at max of 3000 give or take.
Question 2: If springs need to be replaced, where can they be purchased and aren't there different spring strenghs?
Thanks,
John
(1) I used Lars paper. Worked the best. He knows his stuff.
(2) Any speed shop will have them.
glassman74
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
Using no springs allows you to verify the absolute max mechanical advance with no interference from springs. Note it and check it again with the springs you test. Some springs won't allow full adavnce.
Using the elastic bands allows you to verify that the springs you are using completely remove any mechanical advance at idle. Sometimes the weaker springs do not fully retract and creat idle problems. I just use duct tape.
They come as an advance kit assortment from any speedshop or Jegs, Summit or even distributers from other manufacturers like Chrysler etc as long as they retract fully.
This is the way I do it, others may differ.
Using the elastic bands allows you to verify that the springs you are using completely remove any mechanical advance at idle. Sometimes the weaker springs do not fully retract and creat idle problems. I just use duct tape.
They come as an advance kit assortment from any speedshop or Jegs, Summit or even distributers from other manufacturers like Chrysler etc as long as they retract fully.
This is the way I do it, others may differ.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 14,380
Likes: 6,391
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
V8FastCars@msn.com
Removing the springs will cause an over-advanced condition that will not be duplicated with the springs installed, and you will end up with insufficient total timing. You set total timing with the engine running, but you can remove ONE spring if you have the stock springs in order to lower the total timing point to a safe observable rpm. Do not remove both springs or use any rubber bands.
Lars
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 348
Likes: 2
From: Lowell MA
Lars, I did get it from the internet as well as the other one that said to use rubber bands. I will take you up on the offer and email you for the current papers.
Thankyou for the reply. Guess this answered my 2 questions.
Thanks,
John
Thankyou for the reply. Guess this answered my 2 questions.
Thanks,
John
