Hey guys,

I just want to ask if you guys could double check this to make sure I've got it right..Im not good with this decoding yet

I looked at this car again today, this time taking pics of the appropriate numbers.

It is a 1970 convertible, 350/350hp, red paint, red interior, 4speed,









Thanks guys...

 

 

 

I'm definintely not an expert at this either, but I see some things I like.

1. The VIN and the VIN derivative stamping match the way they are supposed to.

2. B26 would be a build date of February 26th, 1970. This seems about right given the serial number of 4959. Check the 1970 Corvette Registry to confirm that 2/26/70 is reasonable for that serial number.

3. The engine assembly stamping has suffix CTH, this is 350/350 with manual trans (the only way 350/350s came in '70)

4. The engine assembly date appears to be 2/11, this makes sense with a trim tag date of 2/26.

5. 974 was Monza Red in 1970.

6. 1970 350/350 had a tach with a yellow line of 5700, and a red line of 6000. It is hard to see in the picture, but it looks like what is present there.

I don't love the look of the stamp pad though, mostly because of the paint. It may be perfect underneath, but we can't see at the moment. The fonts appear to be the right size to me (again, not an expert). The "11" in the assembly date uses two obviously different characters for the ones. I do not know if this is typical of factory stampings, but I have seen weirder stamp pads that the experts sign off on as likely original, so I wouldn't say there is anything wrong necessarily there, I just think I would get someone more knowledgable than me to have a peek before I paid my money.

Do you have any pictures of the engine?

PK

 

all the numbers are right for your description

 

Suffix code: CTH = 350 c.i. L46, with 350 HP, Rochester Q-jet carb, performance cam, 4-speed.

Trim & Paint code = 974 Monza Red exterior.....407 Vinyl Red interior.

Hope this helps....

Stay in tune....

 

REALLY appreciate all the time you put into that info for me PK.

Here are some engine pics:

 

A couple of things jump out at me:

1. The open element air cleaner and "wing nut" ignition shielding are correct for early '70. Later cars had the double snorkel and "flat top" shielding. The serial number where the change was made varies depending on source, but I believe this one is early enough that that should be correct.

2. I don't see any coolant overflow tank at all. I don't know off the top of my head if that is correct for 1970 L-46, but I doubt it. It is not uncommon for people to remove that (why? I am sure I will never know).

3. It looks like the entire washer system is disabled. You might not care depending on how you want to use the car. Personally, I have never had the unmitigated gall to spray my car with washer fluid, but at least the system is hooked up should I change my mind or get in a tight spot.

4. I see a brake booster, but unless the picture is misleading me, I can't see a power steering pump. This would be an unusual way to order a car back in the day, if there was only one it was almost always PS and no PB.

There are some other pieces and parts there that generate question marks in my mind, but nothing I would call a "smoking gun" or any obvious horrible sins. Looks like a decent car, what does the underside look like? The pillar the VIN is on looks prisitine.

PK

 

I had Roadster #131 (350/350) built at the end of the first day so your VIN # checks out. Everything looks correct except for the white box with the rubber lines. It looks to be a windshield washer replacement pump. The original pump (still in place) should have 5-ports (1 in, 2 to headlights, and 2 to windshield). The diaphrams/plastic break with age and are near impossible to get now (unless someone has started reproducing them).

Your finishes look correct (e.g., valve covers) and that appears to be an original vacuum relay.



You should not have an overflow tank.

It was not uncommon to have power brakes and no P/S, (but it looks like there's a pump hiding down there with a belt going to it). Mine had P/S and no P/B. Some people know that P/S draws power off the engine and P/B don't.

 

Thanks Toddalin, appreciate your thoughts..

Here are the specs of the vehicle:

Matching Number 350/350HP WIth Matching Number M20 4 Speed Transmission And 3.36 Positraction Rear. Factory Monza Red Car With Red Vinyl Interior. Multiple Award Winning Car With Beautiful Paint And Body. Immaculate Restored Interior And Excellent White Soft Top. Power Steering, Power Brakes, Power Windows, Tilt/Tele Wheel, AM-FM Radio, 15x8 Rally Wheels With New Redline Radial Tires. Correct Shielding, Air Cleaner, Manifolds, Seatbelts, Shifter With Reverse Lockout, Jack, Spare Etc... Original Tank Sticker And Maintenance Receipts Back To 1982. Runs And Drives Like New. Very Well Maintained Original L46 Car That's Ready To Drive Anywhere.

 

Nice car!

The 5 port pumps are now being reproduced IIRC. Not cheap,but at least they're available.

To the OP: the engine pad has been painted which is not factory original. Best find out why and have the owner remove the paint to verify the pad properly, if this feature is important to you.

 

Just be aware that window sticker is a reproduction. You say there is a tank sticker...how does it look? These repro window stickers can be bought for very little. '70 350/350 convertibles are kinda rare (translation: rare=valuable). The pictures of the engine and interior look good. How about the underside? There is no mention of the amount of work that has been done to the mechanicals. That is where the majority of your money can be spent. The missing smog system can set you back at least a couple of big ones. Exactly what awards has the car won and when? Of course, if none of this matters to you, and you are smitten by the beautiful paint, chrome and restored interior, and if you are satisfied with the price ( it always gets down to how much you are willing to pay) then pull the trigger and enjoy the ride.

 

Thanks for that...

The original tank sticker is in tatters, bis readable, and that is where they got the codes to have the reproduction made.

The awards are only for local car shows. I am not concerned about smog gear as I dont intend to show the car myself. The car has service/repair records dating back to 1982, but the engine has not been rebuilt.

I love the red/red combo - stunning in the flesh
As far as the price...mmm....I'd prefer to not pay $29.9k.....but from what I have seen, that seems to be a fair price..

 

Mark
That sounds like a fair price. I have been looking for one of these for my friend for over five years. He originally wanted A/C, which is even more rare. Finally gave up on that idea. I've seen these cars sell for well into the thirties. Top flight, documented cars can fetch even more.

Just remember the car is 40 years old. My engine had never been rebuilt when I got it, didn't seem to need it (i.e good compression and acceptable performance) but then the problems started. You will need to be concerned about the timing chain and leaks. If you buy the car, make sure to use a motor oil with lots of zinc, or ZDDP additive, when you change oil. These engines have flat tappet cams that can quickly be destroyed with the regular oils that are on the market today. Just be aware that brake calipers and pads, u-joints, ball joints, shocks, bushings and everything made of rubber, as well as all of the seals that hold all the fluids need to be changed sooner than 40 years. If they haven't, you will.

 

The only smog gear is a solonoid mounted to the right side of the intake manifold that keeps you from getting full advance in 1st and 2nd gear, a dashpot on the carb to keep the throttle from "whacking" shut, a pcv valve, a charcoal canister to collect vapors, and a sealed gas cap. There was no smog pump/AIR installed on the '70s even though the '69 had it.

 

Oops. Sorry about that erroneous information. I stand corrected.:o

 

Here's 2 VERY small points....
The rear lip of the hood surround/gutter should be blacked out. On a car that is being restored to some degree of originality like this one appears it was, I'd think that would have been done.
As mentioned the pad has paint on it. I'd think someone restoring this car would be aware that the pad didn't have paint on it originally AND anyone seriously considering this car would want to see the pad surface.
This car is priced as though it's a pretty great car, it BETTER be for $30K.
Has there been any assessment of rust?
Regards,
Alan

 

Thanks Alan,

I will make a note of those items. I am still looking for a local corvette expert whom can do an inspection for me.

I think my local NCRS chapter is in Portland, so I may contact them.

I definitely need an expect for this - its way over my head!

 

Hi Mark,
Yes the information needed to know what you're looking at is a bit overwhelming.
If cars didn't cost so much you could take a semi-blind chance. But to me, you're talking abut a LOT of money, so you want to be sure.
A great car is made up of a zillion little details and goes far beyond the paint, chrome, and interior.
The red car could be a GREAT car but no one can tell from a few pictures and a dealer's description.
FIND A KNOWLEGEABLE PERSON TO LOOK AT THE CARS WITH YOU!
Even if the local Chapter is in Portland there could well be a qualified member near you.
Regards,
Alan

 

no one has stated this, and I believe it is critical to get that extra step on authentication.. what is the casting date of the block? with paint on the pad it has either obviously been manually painted, either with the engine out or in, but if engine has been out then who knows what is there. restamps are everywhere and paint on the pad hides the broach marks ( or lack of ).
keep in mind that window sticker, tank sheet, any documentation does not guarantee originality, it will only tell you what the car came with.

you can also go a few steps further and check the manifold casting numbers and dates, and the carb, and the transmission.

if you are a novice and you are paying original engine money, then go that extra step and find out.

beware of the big deal killer: rust in the frame and birdcage and windshield frame.

from the pics its a nice car, but the critical photos are omitted. get some of the underside.

IMHO