Price to pay?
Anyone want to share a price range? How much for sm blk? How much for big blk? Normal power options (PS, PB etc) add how much?
Kind of a loaded question, but just want some benchmarks. THanks Paul
Anyone want to share a price range? How much for sm blk? How much for big blk? Normal power options (PS, PB etc) add how much?
Kind of a loaded question, but just want some benchmarks. THanks Paul
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3s-...e-16500-a.html
Aussie Mark
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/1617269250.html
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/ctd/1617913376.html
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/1617745838.html
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/1613093744.html
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/1610283334.html
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/1617269250.html
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/ctd/1617913376.html
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/1617745838.html
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/1613093744.html
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/1610283334.html

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/1617269250.html
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/ctd/1617913376.html
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/1617745838.html
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/1613093744.html
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/1610283334.html
Where's the best places to search, generally speaking? PAUL
Somewhere between $20-35K depending on the definition of "no work" needed, the variables being SB/BB/vert/coupe/4 spd/auto for a "relatively" original car with no rust, and no previous "serious" accident damage evident or traceable.
A mechanically sound car, but with a color change from original, as in it once was green for example, and is now red, but still super clean, subtract 10%. A recent high quality repaint in the original color add 10%. Genuine original, real deal concours condition factory paint from new, add 20%. Personally, I'd rather buy a car with really worn and tired, but factory original paint.
The concept of numbers matching is a "value added" scam IMHO.......I'll never pay a dime for that. As long as it has the correct engine/transmission combo that should or could, have been factory installed in it during period it was sold, that is fine with me. The powertrain is gonna be yanked out and stored anyways in my case.
I won't do Bubba cars.......
Last edited by 10caipirinhas; Feb 28, 2010 at 11:22 AM.
If you can find a good, solid driver C3 in near original condition with a new crate engine in it....that would be a real find.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
That's the mental exercise I am going thru right now.........what can I find and what can I do within my budget, while accepting, yet trying to minimize, the inescapable downside, which will always be there.
For example, I am happy to spend a max of $50-55K overall when it is all said and done to re-live the C3 experience, provided I get a rust free car with good paint and a good interior either at the time of purchase, or redone by myself, that looks stock, but I also have financial room in that amount to install a TK0600 and a top quality 700 +/- HP big block (those 2 items are $17K + right there for what I have planned) as well as a good diff, steering, suspension, cooling, etc.........
Don't plan to sell it, but if I do, it's OK with me if I to lose 50% of that after the next 5 years of driving are over. $5K a year is $400 a month.......yah gotta pay to play, and I'd rather drive a hot C3 than a Mercedes or a Camry.......and IMHO nothing is going up in price for 20 years......and anything I buy that is NCRS or similar has a comparable downside too, and won't be half as much fun to run.
Last edited by 10caipirinhas; Feb 28, 2010 at 08:30 PM.
I'll comment on your original statements.
You say you're looking for a car that needs nothing, has paint and everything else, and will need no repairs while you drive it. NOT a show car.....
What you describe IS a show car that IS driven regularly.
I'd like you to consider the actual difference in the 'matching number engine', and 'original engine', land-mine of a question; and what that means to you and your seach.
I also think you need to realize that the car may/will need a bit of work/$/attention as you drive it.
If you decide that what you want is a car that appears to look like a factory stock car, I would be looking for a recent NCRS top flight car that the owner can show has been/is driven regularly.
I think you're looking at the right years. If HP is important, lean toward 69-70, if HP is less important but price matters more, lean toward 71-72.
Range... $25,000 to $65,000.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
I'll comment on your original statements.
You say you're looking for a car that needs nothing, has paint and everything else, and will need no repairs while you drive it. NOT a show car.....
What you describe IS a show car that IS driven regularly.
I'd like you to consider the actual difference in the 'matching number engine', and 'original engine', land-mine of a question; and what that means to you and your seach.
I also think you need to realize that the car may/will need a bit of work/$/attention as you drive it.
If you decide that what you want is a car that appears to look like a factory stock car, I would be looking for a recent NCRS top flight car that the owner can show has been/is driven regularly.
I think you're looking at the right years. If HP is important, lean toward 69-70, if HP is less important but price matters more, lean toward 71-72.
Range... $25,000 to $65,000.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
....But, don't rule out the 73....it is in affect a chrome bumper car....and there is a very nice yellow one up on that other site starting with E....that.... I think can be had for a very good price. Little high yes, but it has a lot of attributes. Not a numbers car, for sure...but very sweet considering. If, I had a bigger garage, I would be making contact with the owner as I type. If, some one were to buy my ZR-1, I would have not made mention of it.... and simply bought it.
Stay in tune....
















