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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 01:20 AM
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Default Price to pay?

Looking to buy a nice 69-71 4-speed coupe driver with no work needed, everything done, no paint jobs or repairing anything. Numbers do NOT need to match but want factory replacement engine etc. Not looking for a show car.

Anyone want to share a price range? How much for sm blk? How much for big blk? Normal power options (PS, PB etc) add how much?

Kind of a loaded question, but just want some benchmarks. THanks Paul
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 01:27 AM
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Originally Posted by plh@h-fs
Looking to buy a nice 69-71 4-speed coupe driver with no work needed, everything done, no paint jobs or repairing anything. Numbers do NOT need to match but want factory replacement engine etc. Not looking for a show car.

Anyone want to share a price range? How much for sm blk? How much for big blk? Normal power options (PS, PB etc) add how much?

Kind of a loaded question, but just want some benchmarks. THanks Paul
Im in the market for a similar car. Here is one on the forum for sale, and if it was closer to me I'd be all over it! Great price...

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3s-...e-16500-a.html


Aussie Mark
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 01:30 AM
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Here's some I found on local craigslist. This is just to give you an idea of what they go for.

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/1617269250.html
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/ctd/1617913376.html
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/1617745838.html
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/1613093744.html
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/1610283334.html
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 02:25 AM
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Fixed it for ya.

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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 04:50 AM
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The "...no work needed..." part is where the expense lays. '69-'70 SB car $28K; BB car $32K; '71 SB car $24K; BB car $28K. [IMO] You are essentially asking for a classic car in the same condition as a new one. Hard to come by for a reasonable price.
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 10:00 AM
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Thanks all, this really helps. Saw a 69 350/350 manual all original couple go for $20,500 last night on Mechum. Either someone got a deal or no one wanted and it was a phantom job. Looked great.

Where's the best places to search, generally speaking? PAUL
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 10:26 AM
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Here's what I think.......getting ready to pull the trigger as well and my mindset is as follows.....

Somewhere between $20-35K depending on the definition of "no work" needed, the variables being SB/BB/vert/coupe/4 spd/auto for a "relatively" original car with no rust, and no previous "serious" accident damage evident or traceable.

A mechanically sound car, but with a color change from original, as in it once was green for example, and is now red, but still super clean, subtract 10%. A recent high quality repaint in the original color add 10%. Genuine original, real deal concours condition factory paint from new, add 20%. Personally, I'd rather buy a car with really worn and tired, but factory original paint.

The concept of numbers matching is a "value added" scam IMHO.......I'll never pay a dime for that. As long as it has the correct engine/transmission combo that should or could, have been factory installed in it during period it was sold, that is fine with me. The powertrain is gonna be yanked out and stored anyways in my case.

I won't do Bubba cars.......

Last edited by 10caipirinhas; Feb 28, 2010 at 11:22 AM.
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 11:17 AM
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I would go along with the above 'logic', but those who put new crate engines in C3's and give them 'better' paint jobs don't really care about keeping them "original"...so most of them aren't. Those folks tend to throw money at the car, replacing everything with newer, more modern, and more expensive stuff. The operating condition of the car is much better...even than when the car was new; but there is so much money sunk into the car that when the owner wants to sell, the price is excessive compared to a 'stock', driver-type car. That's why my estimates were so high.

If you can find a good, solid driver C3 in near original condition with a new crate engine in it....that would be a real find.
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 11:30 AM
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7T1vette.....

That's the mental exercise I am going thru right now.........what can I find and what can I do within my budget, while accepting, yet trying to minimize, the inescapable downside, which will always be there.

For example, I am happy to spend a max of $50-55K overall when it is all said and done to re-live the C3 experience, provided I get a rust free car with good paint and a good interior either at the time of purchase, or redone by myself, that looks stock, but I also have financial room in that amount to install a TK0600 and a top quality 700 +/- HP big block (those 2 items are $17K + right there for what I have planned) as well as a good diff, steering, suspension, cooling, etc.........

Don't plan to sell it, but if I do, it's OK with me if I to lose 50% of that after the next 5 years of driving are over. $5K a year is $400 a month.......yah gotta pay to play, and I'd rather drive a hot C3 than a Mercedes or a Camry.......and IMHO nothing is going up in price for 20 years......and anything I buy that is NCRS or similar has a comparable downside too, and won't be half as much fun to run.

Last edited by 10caipirinhas; Feb 28, 2010 at 08:30 PM.
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 12:10 PM
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Hi Paul,
I'll comment on your original statements.
You say you're looking for a car that needs nothing, has paint and everything else, and will need no repairs while you drive it. NOT a show car.....
What you describe IS a show car that IS driven regularly.
I'd like you to consider the actual difference in the 'matching number engine', and 'original engine', land-mine of a question; and what that means to you and your seach.
I also think you need to realize that the car may/will need a bit of work/$/attention as you drive it.
If you decide that what you want is a car that appears to look like a factory stock car, I would be looking for a recent NCRS top flight car that the owner can show has been/is driven regularly.
I think you're looking at the right years. If HP is important, lean toward 69-70, if HP is less important but price matters more, lean toward 71-72.
Range... $25,000 to $65,000.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Alan 71
Hi Paul,
I'll comment on your original statements.
You say you're looking for a car that needs nothing, has paint and everything else, and will need no repairs while you drive it. NOT a show car.....
What you describe IS a show car that IS driven regularly.
I'd like you to consider the actual difference in the 'matching number engine', and 'original engine', land-mine of a question; and what that means to you and your seach.
I also think you need to realize that the car may/will need a bit of work/$/attention as you drive it.
If you decide that what you want is a car that appears to look like a factory stock car, I would be looking for a recent NCRS top flight car that the owner can show has been/is driven regularly.
I think you're looking at the right years. If HP is important, lean toward 69-70, if HP is less important but price matters more, lean toward 71-72.
Range... $25,000 to $65,000.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
....

But, don't rule out the 73....it is in affect a chrome bumper car....and there is a very nice yellow one up on that other site starting with E....that.... I think can be had for a very good price. Little high yes, but it has a lot of attributes. Not a numbers car, for sure...but very sweet considering. If, I had a bigger garage, I would be making contact with the owner as I type. If, some one were to buy my ZR-1, I would have not made mention of it.... and simply bought it.

Stay in tune....
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 03:14 PM
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All, thanks for the info. It is extremely helpful. Guess at the end of the day, it depends on what you want. As long as the car looks good, original and drives well I'd be happy. Will go over with fine tooth comb to check for accidents etc. THANKS!!!!! Paul
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