1978 power antenna replacement
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,694
Likes: 833
From: WI
GS78Vette,
I can't say if it's 100% identical with NO changes, because I haven't had my 81 vette's antenna out on the table side by side (it works just fine), but I've looked at them on the car and in pictures and they 'appear' to be identical by my eye. The Caddy antenna has an attached cube relay on the antenna mast tube (which you could remove). I have not verified that the connectors are 100% identical. I guess I could pull the vette connector and check it out. Anyway, here is a link to look at:
Click Here. If you type in "Cadillac Deville Antenna" in ebay, you'll gets lots of antennas and my guess is they are a lot cheaper than the vette replacement antennas. If you need an earlier style antenna, you might look for earlier Cadillac/Buick/Olds antennas.
As for the antenna mast repair, KapsSA is right, the Delco replacements did not seem to hold up really well, at least with my Caddy. But you probably won't be driving your vette in -20 weather either, like I do the Caddy. I think that's what killed my last two, but they still lasted a couple years. They crack near the very end, then the internal wire rusts out, then it breaks. On the last go around, I bought the replacement from AntennaMastsRus as noted above. The units I received appeared to be virtually the same as what I had purchased earlier from Ecklers and ZIP, other than the disk-shaped rubber gasket was hard and brittle so I used the original one which is more like neoprene. I bought two repair masts this time because the shipping was the same and I've now got 3 cars with the same antenna. I switched to synthetic grease this time over the lithium grease I used in the past. Maybe that will help in cold temps.
The repair mast that the plastic-bodied antenna uses is not a 'toothed' nylon cord, like was described earlier. It's round, say, 1/8" dia. The toothed cord is a different antenna style. The plastic-bodied antenna cord has a little stainless steel sleeve at the very end with a sharp 90 degree hook in it. That hook fits into the drum which it wraps the cord around. So it's a different design than the toothed style. The replacement for a radio with a CB is supposedly longer. If you don't have the CB, make sure you don't mistakenly order that one. That's about all I know about these antennas.
Hope that helps.
Mark G
I can't say if it's 100% identical with NO changes, because I haven't had my 81 vette's antenna out on the table side by side (it works just fine), but I've looked at them on the car and in pictures and they 'appear' to be identical by my eye. The Caddy antenna has an attached cube relay on the antenna mast tube (which you could remove). I have not verified that the connectors are 100% identical. I guess I could pull the vette connector and check it out. Anyway, here is a link to look at:
Click Here. If you type in "Cadillac Deville Antenna" in ebay, you'll gets lots of antennas and my guess is they are a lot cheaper than the vette replacement antennas. If you need an earlier style antenna, you might look for earlier Cadillac/Buick/Olds antennas.
As for the antenna mast repair, KapsSA is right, the Delco replacements did not seem to hold up really well, at least with my Caddy. But you probably won't be driving your vette in -20 weather either, like I do the Caddy. I think that's what killed my last two, but they still lasted a couple years. They crack near the very end, then the internal wire rusts out, then it breaks. On the last go around, I bought the replacement from AntennaMastsRus as noted above. The units I received appeared to be virtually the same as what I had purchased earlier from Ecklers and ZIP, other than the disk-shaped rubber gasket was hard and brittle so I used the original one which is more like neoprene. I bought two repair masts this time because the shipping was the same and I've now got 3 cars with the same antenna. I switched to synthetic grease this time over the lithium grease I used in the past. Maybe that will help in cold temps.
The repair mast that the plastic-bodied antenna uses is not a 'toothed' nylon cord, like was described earlier. It's round, say, 1/8" dia. The toothed cord is a different antenna style. The plastic-bodied antenna cord has a little stainless steel sleeve at the very end with a sharp 90 degree hook in it. That hook fits into the drum which it wraps the cord around. So it's a different design than the toothed style. The replacement for a radio with a CB is supposedly longer. If you don't have the CB, make sure you don't mistakenly order that one. That's about all I know about these antennas.
Hope that helps.
Mark G
Last edited by Mark G; May 1, 2010 at 10:56 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
From: Ames Iowa
That was a good read. I feel like I've had an excellent crash course in auto antenna repair and replacement.
Thanks to your input, KapsSA's input and others in this thread, I genuinely feel like I learned some good and useful stuff. I mean things that I will actually put to use. Next time I have antenna problems, I won't immediately start pricing repair or replacement costs.
It does make sense to use a design over and over and over if it is not even seen and works pretty well. Many advantages to that for sure. Good work.
2nd Gear
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Riverton Utah
If the mast DOES go up and down the nylon cable is probably OK, for now
There's a 'pinchwheel' with serrated teeth that looses it's bite over time. A triangular file can recut those teeth so they bite again. But even if that's the problem, I'd still replace the nylon cable too.
If you're sure the motor runs good and want to send it to me, I'll do what I can for parts$ and shipping(last one I shipped was $8). The cable is $25.
As long as the masts aren't creased, I've been able to get SLIGHTLY bent masts straight again. I do have a nice large and middle section with my remaining stuff(the small section is part of the cable). The chrome is slightly worn but both sections are straight. Figure $10 each if I need them.
I've given away most of my spare parts, tho.
edit....not 100% necessary to remove the muffler but it does help! Easiest is undo the rear hangers on both mufflers(if still Y pipe equipted) and let both mufflers hang down.
If the power connector isn't underneath by the antenna, you'll probaply find it behind the driver side rear speaker or blockoff panel.
There's a 'pinchwheel' with serrated teeth that looses it's bite over time. A triangular file can recut those teeth so they bite again. But even if that's the problem, I'd still replace the nylon cable too.
If you're sure the motor runs good and want to send it to me, I'll do what I can for parts$ and shipping(last one I shipped was $8). The cable is $25.
As long as the masts aren't creased, I've been able to get SLIGHTLY bent masts straight again. I do have a nice large and middle section with my remaining stuff(the small section is part of the cable). The chrome is slightly worn but both sections are straight. Figure $10 each if I need them.
I've given away most of my spare parts, tho.
edit....not 100% necessary to remove the muffler but it does help! Easiest is undo the rear hangers on both mufflers(if still Y pipe equipted) and let both mufflers hang down.
If the power connector isn't underneath by the antenna, you'll probaply find it behind the driver side rear speaker or blockoff panel.
I want in. I sent you a message but not sure how this site works. I have spent a couple of days with my antenna going up and down on my work bench (thanks to your wiring details) I can't get the ball on top off to use a replacement mast. Can't figure out how to reattach the cable back to the mast and now I am sure I have the lobes messed up to shut it off at the correct times. Any suggestions would be appreciated. As I mentioned in my message to you, car is pretty much original so I am trying to keep it that way.
Thanks
Brad
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,694
Likes: 833
From: WI
The ball unthreads, like a nut. If you have a vise, put the rod in the vise and carefully use a pliers to unscrew the ball. The mast rod should be stainless steel, so the ball shouldn't be rusted on.
As for re-threading on the new nylon chord, just insert the metal tang into one of the holes on the drum and wind it up. Carefully is the key word here as it wants to unwind. The antenna mast needs to be all installed before you do this. It always takes me a couple times to get it right.
Mark G
As for re-threading on the new nylon chord, just insert the metal tang into one of the holes on the drum and wind it up. Carefully is the key word here as it wants to unwind. The antenna mast needs to be all installed before you do this. It always takes me a couple times to get it right.
Mark G
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 781
Likes: 113
gbvette62
The 78 antenna has a black plastic push in bezel at the top of the mast tube that positioned the antenna in the car body. ..."
gbvette62,
Mine is an original 78 power antenna that works fine..
I'm working on the prep for a bit of minor body work and then new paint..
Spare tire and complete carrier are off..Exhaust and mufflers are not in the way..I CAN SEE and get to the antenna assembly OK..
My question is:
What's the proper way to remove the black grommet that positions the mast in the upper driver's side fender top?
Does it release from below and slide downward?
I don't want to remove entire power antenna unit just expose the hole in the rear fender where the grommet fits for the paint work..
Thank you for any direction you can offer..Jim
The 78 antenna has a black plastic push in bezel at the top of the mast tube that positioned the antenna in the car body. ..."
gbvette62,
Mine is an original 78 power antenna that works fine..
I'm working on the prep for a bit of minor body work and then new paint..
Spare tire and complete carrier are off..Exhaust and mufflers are not in the way..I CAN SEE and get to the antenna assembly OK..
My question is:
What's the proper way to remove the black grommet that positions the mast in the upper driver's side fender top?
Does it release from below and slide downward?
I don't want to remove entire power antenna unit just expose the hole in the rear fender where the grommet fits for the paint work..
Thank you for any direction you can offer..Jim
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 781
Likes: 113
I appreciate the time to reply..It's our first Corvette..With five children, every rig my wife & I have had these 45 years has been pretty 'utilitarian'..
I've learned a lot already and the learning and doing and fun isn't over..
Best regards, Jim
1st Gear
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Power Antenna 1979
The mast on my power antenna recently stopped going up & down. The motor still runs, and it starts and stops normally as the radio is turned on an off. I would like any comments as to what the problem may be, and how to access the unit to make the necessary repairs. Can you access from inside the car, or do you need to do it from under the car?
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Drifting
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,992
Likes: 56
From: Antioch IL
Dmg you will need to take the antenna out of the Car and rebuild it. To do that you will have to drop the muffler on the drivers side. Disassemble the antenna and replace the mast. Just as an FYI you might want to start a new thread.
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 63
Likes: 6
From: Dallas, Texas
78 power CB antenna
If the mast DOES go up and down the nylon cable is probably OK, for now
There's a 'pinchwheel' with serrated teeth that looses it's bite over time. A triangular file can recut those teeth so they bite again. But even if that's the problem, I'd still replace the nylon cable too.
If you're sure the motor runs good and want to send it to me, I'll do what I can for parts$ and shipping(last one I shipped was $8). The cable is $25.
As long as the masts aren't creased, I've been able to get SLIGHTLY bent masts straight again. I do have a nice large and middle section with my remaining stuff(the small section is part of the cable). The chrome is slightly worn but both sections are straight. Figure $10 each if I need them.
I've given away most of my spare parts, tho.
edit....not 100% necessary to remove the muffler but it does help! Easiest is undo the rear hangers on both mufflers(if still Y pipe equipted) and let both mufflers hang down.
If the power connector isn't underneath by the antenna, you'll probaply find it behind the driver side rear speaker or blockoff panel.
There's a 'pinchwheel' with serrated teeth that looses it's bite over time. A triangular file can recut those teeth so they bite again. But even if that's the problem, I'd still replace the nylon cable too.
If you're sure the motor runs good and want to send it to me, I'll do what I can for parts$ and shipping(last one I shipped was $8). The cable is $25.
As long as the masts aren't creased, I've been able to get SLIGHTLY bent masts straight again. I do have a nice large and middle section with my remaining stuff(the small section is part of the cable). The chrome is slightly worn but both sections are straight. Figure $10 each if I need them.
I've given away most of my spare parts, tho.
edit....not 100% necessary to remove the muffler but it does help! Easiest is undo the rear hangers on both mufflers(if still Y pipe equipted) and let both mufflers hang down.
If the power connector isn't underneath by the antenna, you'll probaply find it behind the driver side rear speaker or blockoff panel.
Tomjacksonn@live.com
