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I used the search feature but really couldn't find a post about replacing the dash speakers. Can anyone tell me how to get to the dash speakers in my 73?
Right side: Remove right side door sill plate; remove right side kickpanel; remove right side dash panel; remove speaker wire connector; remove nuts on speaker carrier to upper dash pad; remove speaker.
Left side: Grit teeth; lower the steering wheel column by loosening or removing bracket bolts; remove upper dash pad bracket screw behind the right side dash panel; remove upper screws from left side dash panel to upper dash pad; pull on upper dash pad to pull slip-clamps off of bulkhead rail; raise upper pad just enough to get one hand in there, with a small socket wrench of the correct size to remove the speaker carrier nuts; remove nuts; cuss when you drop one; continue to remove all four nuts; remove speaker w/wires attached...remove wires.
Good luck! (P.S. I don't recommend the "remove upper dash pad" method with a 35+ year-old dash. It's very likely that the old, brittle dash pad will crack of completely break into pieces, unless you are very good or very lucky.
As a follow-up: I replaced the dash speaker and also put [larger] speakers in the kickpanels. It really enhanced the sound of the system. The lower speakers take care of the bass and mid-range sound; the upper speakers reflect upper/mid frequencies and hi frequencies off the windshield directly towards you; exactly what you want in a hi-fi type system. Since I couldn't find 8 ohm speakers [to match the 10 ohm radio output impedence], I wired the 4 ohm speakers (2 speakers on each 'side' of the system for my stereo AM/FM) in "series" so as to achieve an 8 ohm total impedence match. That amount of impedence mismatch was not a problem. But, if you replace one 10 ohm speaker with a 4 ohm unit, you will probably burn up the radio's amplifier if you turn the volume up high. Impedence matching is an important issue.
remove right side sill plate then kick panel then right side dash map pocket then both pillar post and the dash comes out nice and easy.
A lot of screws I like to put them back where they go so that I don't loose track.
This is all so a good time to inspect your windshield frame.
The 75's have a speaker mounting bracket which attaches the speaker with 4 screws to the dash (with 3 screws). I assume this is the same for the 73. Make sure not to lose these or you will have to fabricate your own as I have not found a vendor for them.
The 75's have a speaker mounting bracket which attaches the speaker with 4 screws to the dash (with 3 screws). I assume this is the same for the 73. Make sure not to lose these or you will have to fabricate your own as I have not found a vendor for them.
Good tip. They are hard to find.
And I was lucky and did not make the $400.00 mistake described by 7T1vette. But I took it slow and easy.
Are those the original speakers in the photo or the ones you added? I looked up under the passenger side with a flashlight and noticed mine are Pioneer too.
The car has an upgraded radio where I was able to add an IPOD auxiliary; it also came with a 200 amp. I'm thinking this upgrade may have been done anywhere from 5 to 10 years ago. It also has Jenson 6x9's in the back.
Jesse
Last edited by warrior 1; May 28, 2010 at 09:06 PM.
Those speakers [including the dash speakers] have to be upgraded units. I would leave the dash speakers "as is". Any decent quality 4x6 speaker will do a good job with mid/range & high frequencies. Pioneer was not a supplier to GM in the 1970's. I would also suggest to you that all of your speakers are likely 4 ohm speakers...as nearly all auto sound system speakers are rated at 4 ohms. You just need to know that for 'reference' when you decide on a head unit/amp that needs to match up to them.
Those speakers [including the dash speakers] have to be upgraded units. I would leave the dash speakers "as is". Any decent quality 4x6 speaker will do a good job with mid/range & high frequencies. Pioneer was not a supplier to GM in the 1970's. I would also suggest to you that all of your speakers are likely 4 ohm speakers...as nearly all auto sound system speakers are rated at 4 ohms. You just need to know that for 'reference' when you decide on a head unit/amp that needs to match up to them.
I'll check all the speakers to see if they are 4 ohm. I will also check the amp and get the specs there too. I felt the same way about leaving the dash speakers and maybe just getting a better set of 6x9s in the back. I also looked at some Sony tweeters that could be attached on either side of the center console (almost anywhere) with some Velcro.
just in case I go to the kick panels, is there a company that makes aftermarket panels for speakers, or do i just cut mine and buy new ones later if I go back to stock?
ive said this several times now, but 4x6s will fit inside the birdcage holes for the kick panels. very very tight fight, but it will fit. i didnt have to cut my kick panels up at all. otherwise ya, youll have to cut them up.
Are those the original speakers in the photo or the ones you added? I looked up under the passenger side with a flashlight and noticed mine are Pioneer too.
The car has an upgraded radio where I was able to add an IPOD auxiliary; it also came with a 200 amp. I'm thinking this upgrade may have been done anywhere from 5 to 10 years ago. It also has Jenson 6x9's in the back.
just in case I go to the kick panels, is there a company that makes aftermarket panels for speakers, or do i just cut mine and buy new ones later if I go back to stock?
No company makes them pre-fab. I got a black pair on EBay for $25.00, dyed them in oxblood for my car, and cut them. The originals are stored.
Keep attention to the depth of the new speaker, specially on the driver side. If the Magnet is too deep, it can break the the housing of the speedometer. There is very little space between.
Right side: Remove right side door sill plate; remove right side kickpanel; remove right side dash panel; remove speaker wire connector; remove nuts on speaker carrier to upper dash pad; remove speaker.
Left side: Grit teeth; lower the steering wheel column by loosening or removing bracket bolts; remove upper dash pad bracket screw behind the right side dash panel; remove upper screws from left side dash panel to upper dash pad; pull on upper dash pad to pull slip-clamps off of bulkhead rail; raise upper pad just enough to get one hand in there, with a small socket wrench of the correct size to remove the speaker carrier nuts; remove nuts; cuss when you drop one; continue to remove all four nuts; remove speaker w/wires attached...remove wires.
Good luck! (P.S. I don't recommend the "remove upper dash pad" method with a 35+ year-old dash. It's very likely that the old, brittle dash pad will crack of completely break into pieces, unless you are very good or very lucky.
Exactly what I did when I replaced the ones in my 73. It helps to remove the drivers seat when doing that side to give you room to get up under the dash.
For the kickpanel speakers, you can install 4x6, 5-1/4 round, 4x10 oval or 5x7 oval (if you position it right). You can screw the speaker frame directly to the bulkhead metal, if you want, and just put the kickpanel back over it [rather than mount it to the kickpanel...which I think is a little 'flimsy' for a speaker mount]. It is a good idea to put some sound deadener material behind the speaker so that it doesn't set up resonances in the metal structure; styrofoam, 'eggcrate' foam, or fiberglass batting will do the job fine. For any of the above options, you just need to know the dimensions of the metal framework that the speaker will fit into and the available depth of the speaker thickness to set intobefore you go choosing your speakers.
I ended up putting some Infinity' in the kick panels,they sound pretty good. They are not a true 4x6 oval, they have a 4inch round and a separate twitter in the 4x6 frame. I hooked up the new kick speakers and the rear 6x9's to the amp. I hooked the dash straight to the radio; I can fade the dash speakers out if I want. I think I'll take the kick panels off in the next couple of days and take the advice on putting some damping material in there; we'll see.
The speaker store tried to sell me a bigger amp, but for my needs the 200 was good enough.
Thanks, for all the responses, they were a big help.
Last edited by warrior 1; May 29, 2010 at 11:54 PM.