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On my 80 the tach gets the RPM from the distrubitor via a small connector on the distributor. If you open the hood the part it connects to should be pointing towards the drivers side. I believe its the connector on the far right side. The one on the left is the power to the distributor.
It was working fine until i shut the engine and when i started again i had to rpm reading. I disconected the RPM connector on the timmer just to make sure it was not loose and everything seems OK. Is there a way to check the tach to see if it work?
Try plugging your tach wire in direct to the distributor bypassing the radio cap or tach filter first but it sounds like you have lost power or ground to the tach. Have you checked fuses ?
Try plugging your tach wire in direct to the distributor bypassing the radio cap or tach filter first but it sounds like you have lost power or ground to the tach. Have you checked fuses ?
So which fuse would it be that would affect the tach's ground and cause it to 'stick' at 2000 rpm?
I have an '80 C3 Coupe. 88,000 miles. Tach was working fine when I bought the car used in Jan. and only driven it about 100 miles since.
So which fuse would it be that would affect the tach's ground and cause it to 'stick' at 2000 rpm?
I have an '80 C3 Coupe. 88,000 miles. Tach was working fine when I bought the car used in Jan. and only driven it about 100 miles since.
The first thing I would do is by-pass the filter and see if the issue is still there. If it goes away replace the filter.
If the issue is still there, then I'd remove the tach from the car and test the clips in the instrument housing. Test the positive clip using a ground other than the ground clip.. then test the ground using a different power source... this will eliminate a false positive.
This PDF file will walk you through it.... If you get to the end and the tach still is not working, then replace the board.
Which fuse? Is there one for 'gauges', or is the tach connected to some other fused series of items?
So the other day I was vacuuming the drivers side of the car/floor, and noticed a fuse tucked under the edge of the floor mat. Checking charts on the fuse locations and uses, (there are conflicting versions for the '80 Corvette, I might add), I noticed the fused for "gauges" was missing (20 amp). I replaced it and the several gauges that were not working, INCLUDING the tach, worked again.
Now it's just a matter of getting the engine coolant temp gauge working, and no, the 'ground out' the connection wire doesn't seem to affect the gauge that's stuck at about 110 degrees. NOT helpful.
I may have a local garage that works on vintage cars check/do diagnosis and give me a quote. I am not a mechanic, do not have many tools nor a lift, etc.
But the TACH issus is solved. I am not sure how the fuse popped out of its own accord.
Last edited by BobM1980RedCorvette; Aug 25, 2017 at 11:54 AM.
Im suddenly having problems with my tach not working as well. Even after installing a new tach board from Willcox it stays stuck at 5500 rpm. I verified power, ground, and tested the continuity of the signal wire as per Willcox's instructions and all are fine. It does not have a tach filter. If the instrument fuse was bad none of my gauges would work correct?
Im suddenly having problems with my tach not working as well. Even after installing a new tach board from Willcox it stays stuck at 5500 rpm. I verified power, ground, and tested the continuity of the signal wire as per Willcox's instructions and all are fine. It does not have a tach filter. If the instrument fuse was bad none of my gauges would work correct?
In my case what stopped working with fuse out were the Fuel Gauge, Tach, and I believe, Ammeter. The clock I believe still worked. The engine coolant temp is still NOT working and I'll have to get that checked (in my case, by a mechanic), as its problem is evently not fuse-related.