I am currently a C6 owner but it is about to be sold pending my buyer's loan approval. I LOVE my C6, but I realize that it is about to depreciate quite a bit in the next few years with the looming introduction of the new C7. I decided to get a C3 instead since the looks of that generation has always been my favorite, and it will likely gain value in the future.

So I am now in the market for a C3, and although I've owned a C6, this is a VERY different car and I would like advice from the experts on the subject. I wasn't even born when these cars were produced since I'm in my late 20s! I am looking for a '68-'70 car (although I might consider a '71 or '72) with numbers matching engine, 4 speed, and A/C. A big block would be a perk and so would documentation. It doesn't have to be a perfect show car, but it has to be a solid car that will gain value without much restoration work. I am willing to take my time to find the right car, and actually need to wait a few months to save up a little money anyway.

My question is what are the traditional problem areas that I need to be looking at on these specific cars? I know a little bit about cars, and I know that every old car has its normal problem areas that need to be looked at. What should I be looking for as far as rust goes? Are there any common problems with A/C cars? Any additional info would be much appreciated. I would like to go into this process with the benefit of your collective experience. Thanks!

 

Worth the price of a copy.


Michael Antonick also has a C3 buyers guide. Also good informatoin.

C7 is "looming"?

I would be wary of expecting too much appreciation out of the C3 you will be looking for. A car meeting your criteria will have a five figure price tag.

 

Aside from damage due to accidents, many other things to look at.
If the car has spent time in the rust belt, frame rust and bird cage rust are expensive items to fix. Frame right in front of the rear wheels. Area around the windshield and #2 body mount. #4 body mount. Just a few areas where they seem to rust.

There are a lot of good references out there with tips as to what to look for.

Good luck with your search.

 

The 3 model years you seem to prefer, '68, '69, & '70 all have differences both inside and outside. You should study them carefully and determine what stylistic features you find interesting to you specifically, then you can narrow your focus to the particular year and look for the color combination that suits your taste.

 

Thanks this is exactly the kind of info I'm looking for. Excuse my ignorance but what is the best way to detect bird cage rust? Where should I be looking for that? Also, where are the #2 and #4 body mounts?

 

Yes, when you own the most recent generation of Corvette, the next generation is always "looming" in a big way because as soon as the public gets a look at it, your car loses thousands of dollars in value.

Thanks for the appreciation warning, but one thing is for sure... any C3 I get will hold its value better than my C6 over the next few years. Luckily I have just enough money to buy a nice car. What I can't afford is to watch that car depreciate by ten grand. I believe that if I get a good deal on a C3 (and good deals seem to plentiful in this economy) for about $20k give or take a few thousand, it should be worth at least that much or more down the road.

 

If you haven't driven a C3 yet, I think that should be your first step.
After owning a C6 you will find the ride quite different. Not saying bad but different.

 

Good point. I'm definitely going to drive before I buy, but I don't see ride roughness or anything like that swaying me much.

 

Speaking about '68-'70 cars specifically, even though many of these are applicable to all C3s, here are some common problems to look for in no particular order:

1. Rust: I think this is laid out well above, so I won't comment further.
2. Emergency Brake: Not expensive to fix, and the weekend mechanic can do it, but it is a pain.
3. Rear wheel bearings/trailing arms: This is a common wear item. Rebuilding them yourself isn't bad in dollars, but is a much more advanced type of project and requires some special tools. New and rebuilt ones are available for several hundred dollars for a pair, changing them is feasible for the weekend mechanic.
4. Clock: If it works, it has almost certainly been replaced somewhere along the way.
5. Free play in the steering. The rag joint and steering box are common wear items. The steering box lash can be adjusted and rag joints are cheap. The only down side is that if a prior owner adjusted the steering box lash incorrectly, the box will be ruined in short order. New and rebuilt ones are available.
6. Complicated vacuum system: The early C3 vacuum system operates the headlights, wiper door, and dampers in the HVAC system. After 40 years, all of them will have or have had problems, and will have more problems in the future. Be ready for a learning experience.
7. Electrical system: Bubba is fond of grabbing body grounds when working on the electrical systems on cars of this era. The fiberglas body prevents this, but causes Bubba to do some pretty wild and whacky things to Corvettes.

Everything else is pretty much the same as any car of that era. Keep in mind that the fuel delivery and ignition systems will bear no resemblance to your C6. If you have worked on older cars before, you won't have any problem with it, just an eyes open thing.

Your $20,000 number will get you a decent driver '69 coupe with numbers matching. If you have to have the big block vert with 4 spd and A/C and want it in ready-to-go condition, be ready to pay a lot more than that.

Good luck!

 

Your strategy is a good one...but it depends on you choosing a car that is really worth what you are paying. You really need a lot of experience and investigation to know what you are doing when you buy any vintage vehicle...especially a C3. My advice is for you to look over the '68-'72 cars and pick which design you like best. There is not a lot of difference in them, but some features stand out for me: the '68 has many 'unique' parts and the car you buy should have all of them and they should be in good condition not requiring replacement; the '68-69 did NOT have flared fenders that prevented road rash on the body behind the wheels--for that reason alone I wanted a '70-72; the shark gills on the '68-69 were not as attractive to me as the '70-72 egg-crate side grilles; the '70-72 seat belt system was better than the earlier versions; '68 had a 327 sb...350's started in '69; '71 engines had compression lowered--lower HP, but you can run them on today's regular fuel.

Now, once you've selected what car you want, find someone knowledgeable on C3's in your area that will go with you when you look at some cars for sale. You can either ask for help from someone on this Forum or contact a local Corvette club in your area (one that actually has some folks with C3's) and get some names from them. At worst you will have to offer a few bucks for their time, but that would be money well spent if it will keep you from buying 'a sow's ear'. Good luck.

P.S. In the mean time, go to all the car shows you can and pick the brains of all the C3 owners. Ask them about their cars and where you should check for rust, etc.

 

One other piece of advice: In cars of this age, nothing that isn't working when you look at the car is ever an easy fix. Cars like this are much more often than not owned by car guys/girls. If it was an easy fix, they would have already fixed it. I could give examples, but if you read the forum for a while, you will find plenty!

 

I'll try to describe the areas I mentioned. Best if you attend a show and ask someone to show you.

Common areas for rust in the birdcage are around the windshield and behind the kick panels. Look closely at the windshield pillars. Looking through the glass, you can sometimes see a bulge where rust has started to swell out. More extensive rust may be obvious. Look at the bottom of the windshield pillars and surrounding areas. Rust often forms on the header bar, hidden from view by the moulding. If the current owner or previous has stuffed this area with RTV it may be a sign of a leak due to rust.

If the carpets are damp or smell musty, that could be a warning sign of water leaks.

The #1 mount is the first of 4 body mounts on each side. #2 mount can be seen by removing the kick panel. #3 mount is in front of the rear wheel, an access cover in the wheel well hides it (I think, been a while since I've looked). #4 mount is behind the rear wheels.

Common areas on the frame are in front of the rear wheel. Look closely at the side and bottom of the side rail. Look at the plate which caps the end of the side rail.

Another spot is the front cross member, bolted on the very front of the frame. The radiator support rests on this frame member.

68 was the first year for C3, some unique parts. Chevrolet did a bit of redesign for 69 though they look quite similar. Egg crate grilles replaced the slots in the side of the fender in 1970. I think the seats are taller as well. 1971 is very similar to 1970.

I've seen many of the rust problems I described and have had to deal with a few of them. No fun, can get expensive. As another poster said, talk to owners. I'll bet they'd be happy to show you what to look for.

Good luck

 

Here is what you've told us:

- $22K is your limit
- You want a chrome bumper C3 ('68 to '72)
- You want a 4 speed
- You want A/C
- You don't want to restore it
- You don't know much about working on cars, at least yet

You need to buy a car in really good condition, the best car that you can find. For a car that is 38 to 42 years old, best means a car that has had a lot of correct work done to it. If a car this old is described as being more or less "original" you will have to spend a lot more money on it. If you can't do the work, you are talking about a money pit at your local corvette shop.

Your best bet for the money would be a '72 coupe. That way you could drive away with the best condition car for your money. The other end of the spectrum would be a '68 or '69 big block convertible. For $22K, that car (if even available) would not be in as good of condition.

The earlier the year, the bigger the engine, convertibles, original drive train, documentation...all these are factors that will likely bring higher levels of appreciation years down the road. I don't think you are able to play in that game yet. The sooner the better, but just not yet.

 

Thanks for all the info guys. And just to supply some extra info, I'm no mechanic but several of my friends are. I don't want to do anything too major but I can get work done on the car for next to free if there is something over my head that needs done. Also, I realize finding a big block in good shape for $20k is unlikely. I'm completly fine with a 350 or 327 as long as its numbers matching. AC is a requirement though. From the research I've done it looks like I will have a decent amount of cars like that to choose from in my price range. I've just got to be informed on what problems to avoid, and I thank all of you for helping with that.

 

What are you planning to do with the car?
Are you interested in showing it or just driving?
You may get a better price on a non numbers matching vehicle if you're not planning to compete in shows. May be able to find a big block within budget if you don't need numbers matching.

If you do go for numbers matching, hope there's some documentation to support this. I hear of a bit of forgery going on, driven by the increase in value.

Some thoughts...

 

Yesterday, 10:30 AM #8
stic5
CF Senior Member





My Corvette Photos
Member Since: Feb 2009
Location: Lexington KY

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Thanks for putting up pics. It's a shame because I definitely want the car but I won't have the money until this winter. For your sake I hope you find a buyer before then, but if not I'll definitely take it!

What does I'll definitley take it mean?

 

Umm.. that I'll buy it if its what he says it is?

 

Drive one first, you may be disappointed in the ride and comfort of the C6. What the C3 lack in comfort if give 10X's back in a raw power and drop dead looks.

And yes they are quite a few of in the late 20's/early 30's who own these cars.

 

Good for you and I'm glad to hear it. This hobby needs more young people interested in these old vettes, because us old farts can't take them with us when we croak...even though we'd like to!

 

Stic,

I remember your C6 on here requesting a trade for a C3. Nice car!

You have already gotten some really good ideas from some of the more knowledgeable folks on here, but here's my .02:

1. Will this be a DD or part-time fun car? As some have said, the engineering, ride characteristics, gas mileage,reliability, safety etc. are like night & day.

2. If you are looking for a DD, a C5 may be a better choice. They are a huge bang for the buck right now, as most of the depreciation has been realized.

3. Although C3's may not depreciate, I would not count on them appreciating much either, w the USA economy's future looking so uncertain.

4. Come to Corvettes at Carlisle Aug 27-29, learn all you can and find your next Vette!

Rickman