When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I've been having problems with my Power Steering Control Valve and think I need to replace it.
I've read that some guys have had to go thru a few of them to find a 'good' one that works properly. This sound like a real pia besides being expensive. Where is the best place to buy a good unit? OR should I go the rebuild route and rebuild it? Is rebuilding it going to be enuf to solve my problems? Are the rebuild kits worth it?
I've been having problems with my Power Steering Control Valve and think I need to replace it.
I've read that some guys have had to go thru a few of them to find a 'good' one that works properly. This sound like a real pia besides being expensive. Where is the best place to buy a good unit? OR should I go the rebuild route and rebuild it? Is rebuilding it going to be enuf to solve my problems? Are the rebuild kits worth it?
shmoky
I rebuilt my entire control valve - fluid side and ball stud side - for ~$85.00 or so IIRC. I mangled a seal on assembly the first time and had a huge leak but a second fluid side (fortunately the cheaper side) rebuild fixed that. Unless the bore on the fluid side is scored or otherwise damaged you should be able to rebuild it yourself. Jim Shea has some control valve rebuild papers on corvettefaq.com
The fluid side rebuild kits are available at chain parts stores but the ball stud side kits are usually only available at one of the forum vendors.
I replaced about 4 valves over a number of years. Finally had a complete replacement with AC Delco parts. No problems since. Think about how much $ I spent trying to go the cheap route and I could have done the AC Delco thing twice.
Yah, thanx Larry. I'm thinking of going the 'new' route for just that reason. Also I don't want to screw around with steering components for the safety reasons.
Okay, parts are on the way. Hope they are in the mail when I check tomorrow. I bought some power steering fluid from the dealership but this is all they could sell me.
When I installed the system when I got it, it came with this.
Is it okay to use the AC Delco stuff in my original system?
I will have to address this issue soon myself. The PO of my 71 installed one that (which is all shiny and new looking) leaks like it was in a Bonnie and Clyde shoot out. Not sure what to do yet. I hate to buy the rebuild kit to find there are more serious issues.
local auto parts store will probably carry A-1 Cardone products and offer the best prices.....call around to the other stores and I would not recommend you rebuilding it.....
My 72 has a grease fitting ( about the middle of the casting) on the ball stud side if you don't keep grease in that chamber they will leak steering fluid. I believe the intent is two fold one to grease the ball stud and second to keep pressure on the seal between the chambers, thus keeping the steering fluid where it belongs and not on the ground.
John
For those who have yet to commit to new parts, I rebuilt my valve this weekend in just a few hours. The ball joint side is adjustable, and mine felt OK pre-disassembly so I just went with a fluid side kit. Not too difficult, and the directions are straight forward. Cost me about $20.00 versus $200 or so. I think it's worth a try before investing in a new unit.
That is a good item to purchase and the same one we install in the shop when customers prefer new as opposed to rebuilt!
We also do our own rebuilds here in house.... and had it not been for a major gaff from yours truly I'd have a video up on how to do the rebuilds step by step!
So.. we still have all this out on the counter ready to "Do Over" . . . But the shop has been very busy and we've not had a chance. I think once I'm done with this anyone can rebuild the valves.
If your control valve has a zerk fitting be very careful to not over grease the valve. Too much grease pressure can unseat a lip seal inside the valve and cause fluid leaks.
Original valves had zerk fittings and a boot seal on the stud with a purge slit to allow excess grease to ooze out.
Later design control valves were "greased for life" and had boot seals that did not have the purge slit and also did not have zerk fittings.
Obviously, they did not comprehend "greased for life" to mean 40+ years of service.