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The Guy says it's a "Survivor" - so I would check the dates on the block, carb, and heads, and see if the all match up with the build date - that should go a long way to verifying the pad data.
With the valve covers off to check the date code on the heads, you also might be able to verify that the engine has solid or hydraulic lifters.
But to me - that pad looks very bad. I definalty would avoid the car unless I could verify everything is original.
Wow...I bet the guy stamping the VIN 38 years ago on a friday afternoon just before quitting time never thought his work would mean so much today!!!
Back in the day, I don't remember anybody saying that any muscle car, or vette for that matter, would go up in value. Does anybody today actually believe that a 2010 vette will someday sell for a million?
Back in the day, I don't remember anybody saying that any muscle car, or vette for that matter, would go up in value. Does anybody today actually believe that a 2010 vette will someday sell for a million?
I've wondered if they'll actually start coming down again as some of the other old cars have once the people who are bidding the prices up are no longer in the market, either moved on or passed away. I doubt an antique muscle car will mean that much to the younger generations. Many would probably prefer to put a modern drive train in and drive it.
Still say if I were to restamp the block I'd be VERY sure to do a better job than that. The stamp looks like it was done by someone who really didn't care, most likely the fellow in Flint at the end of a Friday or a Monday morning.
Back in the day, I don't remember anybody saying that any muscle car, or vette for that matter, would go up in value. Does anybody today actually believe that a 2010 vette will someday sell for a million?
It is funny though. Last year, I sold a 1984 Goldwing Aspencade for 70% of it's original $9000 (CDN) MSRP 25 yrs ago
And I just paid more for a 76 vette than it was worth brand-new (in un-inflated dollars).
But the fully-loaded $37K (CDN) Accord EXV6 Coupe I bought 6 years ago has a black-book of less than 25% of my purchase price. Maybe I'll keep it for another 30 years to re-cupe my loss
Still say if I were to restamp the block I'd be VERY sure to do a better job than that. The stamp looks like it was done by someone who really didn't care, most likely the fellow in Flint at the end of a Friday or a Monday morning.
I suppose it is possible that the engine was date stamped at Flint and the exact identifying suffix letters were individually added later, or ground out and changed, without the use of a gang holder. It is also possible I might win the lotto one of these days.
I suppose it is possible that the engine was date stamped at Flint and the exact identifying suffix letters were individually added later, or ground out and changed, without the use of a gang holder. It is also possible I might win the lotto one of these days.
Are you suggesting somebody may have altered the suffix letters changing an ordinary small block into an LT1? I think we established the car was originally an LT1 based on the serial number. If the serial number of the car matches the block it must be original or a restamp. If it were a restamp it doesn't seem likely they would stamp the serial number cleanly but stamp the engine suffix crooked. If I were to restamp I'd be very careful to draw as little attention to the stamp pad as possible. The fellow in Flint who stamped the block originally probably couldn't have cared less. Could have been a scew up. I suppose it's possible a restamper screwed it up as well and had to redo it.... Doesn't seem likely..
Academic anyway since I have absolutely no interest in buying any more Corvettes. I'd have a real hard time parting with something North of $20,000 for any early 70's Corvette for that matter. Just my opinion. Obviously these cars appeal to others enough to pay what a nice new car would sell for with a good long warantee...
These cars were just thrown together by non-caring managment/assembly line workers.
If the numbers on the pad were straight, they would be, most likely fake.
The messed up, out of whack numbers are probably very original.
The build date on that 72 based on the trim tag code of F14 is January 14, 1972
The date on the engine is 1210 CKY or December 10th. That makes it plausible.
What bothers me a little is that the last two digits on the engine stamp are not visible.
They seem to be gone under the same pitting that the right numbers show up so well in.
It's odd that two vanish but 7 are clear.
If you are buying numbers matching (and for that money $36k you are) then I would INSIST on the wire brush treatment.
...I suppose it is possible that the engine was date stamped at Flint and the exact identifying suffix letters were individually added later, or ground out and changed, without the use of a gang holder. It is also possible I might win the lotto one of these days.
FWIW: it is possible this car was fired up on the assembly line, threw a rod, and was sent to Heavy Repair. The block might have been replaced in Heavy Repair and the pad could have been hand stamped there.
It is possible the existing stamp might be factory original.