First start in 20 years
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 287
Likes: 0
From: N. Alabama
Turned my attention back to the engine compartment. Removed the radiator. Found the lower drivers side of the core support has some rust damage. Not terriblwe but enought the I should break out the welder and patch it. This is some of the stuiff that was growing in the radiator:
I took out the alarm system that was on it. I know some of them came with an alarm but this looked like a really bad install. I think I cut out 50ft of wiring.
I got the exhaust removed from the engine. Only took about 2 minutes (SAWZALL)
Thought about unbolting the trans and converter but I've decided to pull everything at the same time. Tomorrow I will get the driveshaft out, trans mount and lines, shifter cable, speedo and motor mounts. I think that should be all unless there are some secret items hooked up.
I took out the alarm system that was on it. I know some of them came with an alarm but this looked like a really bad install. I think I cut out 50ft of wiring.
I got the exhaust removed from the engine. Only took about 2 minutes (SAWZALL)
Thought about unbolting the trans and converter but I've decided to pull everything at the same time. Tomorrow I will get the driveshaft out, trans mount and lines, shifter cable, speedo and motor mounts. I think that should be all unless there are some secret items hooked up.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 287
Likes: 0
From: N. Alabama
As you can see in the above picture, the A-arm bushings are pretty well shot. I guess after the motor comes out that will be another project, all suspension bushings.
Can anyone else see things snowballing here?
Can anyone else see things snowballing here?
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 4,255
Likes: 82
From: Brampton Ont.
I can give you my personal experience from trying to put a 75' back on the road from being stored for 20 years. I know the whole history since I'm the original owner.
At first I thought it was just a matter of replacing several gaskets but it was much worse. I had to replace virtually every gasket including the rear end housing gasket. Then it went on to bushings, every bushing had dried up and I'm including body mount bushings. Then when I thought I was seeing a light at the end of the tunnel it went on to seals like master cylinder etc. Then onto oils which is the easiest part but it includes brake fluid and you can only hope that your caliper seals don’t leak or are seized.
Keep in mind this car has only 50,000 original miles, but climate being Toronto Ontario Canada maybe a factor, even though it was always garage kept.
It's not to say you'll have the same problems but having a car sit for many years, rubber starts to weld onto metal and bolts start to seize.
At first I thought it was just a matter of replacing several gaskets but it was much worse. I had to replace virtually every gasket including the rear end housing gasket. Then it went on to bushings, every bushing had dried up and I'm including body mount bushings. Then when I thought I was seeing a light at the end of the tunnel it went on to seals like master cylinder etc. Then onto oils which is the easiest part but it includes brake fluid and you can only hope that your caliper seals don’t leak or are seized.
Keep in mind this car has only 50,000 original miles, but climate being Toronto Ontario Canada maybe a factor, even though it was always garage kept.
It's not to say you'll have the same problems but having a car sit for many years, rubber starts to weld onto metal and bolts start to seize.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 287
Likes: 0
From: N. Alabama
Yep, same thing here. Body mounts bushings are dried and cracked, belts were almost glued to the pulleys, MC was bone dry. That would explain the no brakes coming off the trailer. Glad nobody had a video camera going on that one. lol
Good news is I don't plan on driving it until April/May so I have to to buy and replace all the important things. Others I will do as I can.
The motor and trans are being replaced along with all suspension bushings, shocks, and most of the brakes parts and most of the interior..ugh
Good news is I don't plan on driving it until April/May so I have to to buy and replace all the important things. Others I will do as I can.
The motor and trans are being replaced along with all suspension bushings, shocks, and most of the brakes parts and most of the interior..ugh
Last edited by BryanB75; Oct 21, 2010 at 09:16 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 287
Likes: 0
From: N. Alabama
Decided to finally get the motor out today. Came out pretty easy ...after I realized the ground cable was still there and needed disconnecting 
Now it's time to get busy cleaning up the mess, putting on the rack attack, VB&P Performance Plus System, and getting the interior going. I'm still waiting for the motor to get finished and shipped.
Still need to buy exhaust system and all new brakes. Engine guy said to definitely stay away from sidepipe and those 1 7/8" headers unless I want to lose about 40 ft/lbs of torque. I wanted to use some Spintech mufflers anyway
Now it's time to get busy cleaning up the mess, putting on the rack attack, VB&P Performance Plus System, and getting the interior going. I'm still waiting for the motor to get finished and shipped.
Still need to buy exhaust system and all new brakes. Engine guy said to definitely stay away from sidepipe and those 1 7/8" headers unless I want to lose about 40 ft/lbs of torque. I wanted to use some Spintech mufflers anyway
TheCorvetteBen
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 4,987
Likes: 144
From: Van Alstyne, TX
I can give you my personal experience from trying to put a 75' back on the road from being stored for 20 years. I know the whole history since I'm the original owner.
At first I thought it was just a matter of replacing several gaskets but it was much worse. I had to replace virtually every gasket including the rear end housing gasket. Then it went on to bushings, every bushing had dried up and I'm including body mount bushings. Then when I thought I was seeing a light at the end of the tunnel it went on to seals like master cylinder etc. Then onto oils which is the easiest part but it includes brake fluid and you can only hope that your caliper seals don’t leak or are seized.
Keep in mind this car has only 50,000 original miles, but climate being Toronto Ontario Canada maybe a factor, even though it was always garage kept.
It's not to say you'll have the same problems but having a car sit for many years, rubber starts to weld onto metal and bolts start to seize.
At first I thought it was just a matter of replacing several gaskets but it was much worse. I had to replace virtually every gasket including the rear end housing gasket. Then it went on to bushings, every bushing had dried up and I'm including body mount bushings. Then when I thought I was seeing a light at the end of the tunnel it went on to seals like master cylinder etc. Then onto oils which is the easiest part but it includes brake fluid and you can only hope that your caliper seals don’t leak or are seized.
Keep in mind this car has only 50,000 original miles, but climate being Toronto Ontario Canada maybe a factor, even though it was always garage kept.
It's not to say you'll have the same problems but having a car sit for many years, rubber starts to weld onto metal and bolts start to seize.
the number one WORST thing that you can do to these vettes is let them sit. I would prefer a vette that had been driven off and on for the last 20 years than one that had just sat. As you know now, almost everything rubber has to be changed out
Racer
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 254
Likes: 0
From: Woodbridge/Dallas VA/TX
you know I have a 75 vette and I haven't had nearly as many problems as you guys are saying but mine to was a daily driver and sidepipes are ok just go hooker with a 4 in collecter and I don't see you losing hp or toque
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 5,485
Likes: 7
From: Peekskill NY
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
From: manhasset n.y.
Do not take anythig for granted.Iwas in the same place you are in FEBRUARY.The car has come a long way since then.Do not get frustated.GOOD LUCK.Check for rodents believe me.They can scare the life out of you.Throw math ***** around and inside the car.
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 160
Likes: 1
Hey guys.. couple months back i bought a 77 that had sit for 18 yrs , my bother bought it new in Feb of 77, it's an L48 4spd black with buckskin interior. he built a shed and put a car cover over it 18 yrs ago... I gave him 3k for the car, had 83k miles on it... I went out there and put a battery in her, put 2gals of gas in her she started... I drove her 3 miles to a garage and we started working on her... So far i've got the motor tuned up, carb rebuilt, all new breaks and all the interior out of her. Now once my wife gives me some more money i'm going to get her painted. Not really sure how to post pics or i would...
Moderator Emeritus
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 46,133
Likes: 111
From: Maryville Tn
CI 5 thru 12 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '09 thru '23
NCM Sinkhole Donor
I prefer driving Vettes more than rebuilding them. The car doesn't look that bad for sitting for 20 years. Good luck with your project. 
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,300
Likes: 1
From: Quincy IL
another '75 owner here.... my car had not sat that long, but mine was sitting outside. Looks like you have a really fun project. You may get frustrated at times, but trust me, when it's done and you get to drive it - it will be all worth it. I kept mine stock - very stock and I had fun tracking down correct parts (probably the hardest and most expensive route). It sounds like you are going a different route with yours but will still be worth it when your finished.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 287
Likes: 0
From: N. Alabama
I started doing that Sunday. Soaked everything down with Simple Green and let sit a while. Wen back later with a scraper and wire wheel. Got the frame section of engine bay done. Still need to attack the firewall amd fenderwells.
Next task is to get the motor and trans out of the garage and do some cleanup. I didn't bother to drain the trans but it had other plans. I have most of a bag of oil dry on the floor under the car ..doh!
Next task is to get the motor and trans out of the garage and do some cleanup. I didn't bother to drain the trans but it had other plans. I have most of a bag of oil dry on the floor under the car ..doh!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 287
Likes: 0
From: N. Alabama
Today's project was getting the front brakes off and looking inside the calipers. Mind you, these brakes were completely redone just prior to parking 20 years ago. The PO said they had "Stainless" brakes installed. Not sure what exactly that means. I'll let the pic tell the tale.
There looked to be grease cake & crystallized all around the piston in the area just below the seal. Not sure what the black crud is that was under the piston. The only part of the brakes that resembles stainless is the casing that the piston moves in. On this caliper, the grease that was caked on the piston has eaten into the piston. Now I need to know if I can get replacement pistons or should I just be looking for new brakes?
There looked to be grease cake & crystallized all around the piston in the area just below the seal. Not sure what the black crud is that was under the piston. The only part of the brakes that resembles stainless is the casing that the piston moves in. On this caliper, the grease that was caked on the piston has eaten into the piston. Now I need to know if I can get replacement pistons or should I just be looking for new brakes?
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
From: Boiling Springs SC
The sleeves or bores that the pistons travel in are the only part that is going to be stainless. If these bores are not pitted, the rest of the parts can be replaced, and the calipers rebuilt. I think VB&P has the ones with the o-ring seals which are suppose to be better than the original style seals. If you do decide to rebuild them, you can powdercoat them yourself if you have access to powdercoating equipment.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 287
Likes: 0
From: N. Alabama
I've been working on the body mounts. Not a terrible pain overall. 4 of the 8 bolts snapped in half. Fortunately it was the #1 and 4bolts that broke on both sides. The nuts are easy to get to.
I will have to replace the metal cover that is riveted on the drivers rear (#4). It was rusted through and ready to come off
I will have to replace the metal cover that is riveted on the drivers rear (#4). It was rusted through and ready to come off