more issues with door gaps at the front clip the bottom touches while the top has 1/2 inch gap also I have had the body off and I can not achieve the 43 inches from rear hood hinge bolt to cowl drip edge.is it possible I have to move the body back a 1/2 inch to get the 43 inches?

 

There should be alignment holes in Your door sills. Once they are lined up the rest has to be done with body mount shims. There is a thread I think in here somewhere. If You try the search You may find it, on body shiming.

 

yes my holes are aligned one on rt rear and one on lt front the other two holes do not go through the frame .the left rear qtr was replaced long ago and I had to cut it loose at jam to move out 1/4 inch the doors seem to be lined up with rockers and jams left side top of fender and door seem pretty good but top of left fender and door dont quite mesh.no matter what I do I can not get the 43 inches it calls for rather I move the core support up and down.so thats why I am thinking I have to move the body back 1/2 inch

 

The body doesn't have that much wiggle room. I figure that dimension came from the Ecklers fiberglass book. I found that to be a guideline more than a hard & fast rule. I found it easiest to measure using a cloth tape, "borrowed" from my wife's sewing stuff I struggled with the same issue until I measured a bunch of other cars & found a variety of dimensions, none of which matched side to side.

Get the dimension close with a block of wood in the middle and bolt everything on as you get the nose close to the best position. Make sure everything fits & lines up correctly, hood, wiper door, bumper brackets, bumper, etc.

While you can't move the body back, you can move the front cross member forwards and adjust the angle. But the more you move it forward the less space there is for the bumper brackets. Every car is different and there are a lot of compromises when hanging a new nose.

Jim

 

I was wondering if was because they made the front clip ?

 

Who made the front clip? Is your clip stock or aftermarket? Did you happen to see whether you had the 43" measurement before the clip was removed?

 

my clip is a no hit 68,I did not take any measurements before I pulled the original it probably would not have done any good the clip had damage plus the bird cage was gone worked on it all day and finally got the gaps close but at the top of the doors the height seems to differ,the doors are aligned with the bonding strips and so are the fenders also on the body line.the right door is 1 inch above the top lip of fender and the left is 1/2 inchhttp://s681.photobucket.com/albums/vv173/69ragvette/?action=view&current=CIMG4994.jpg

 

I'll try to remember to measure mine tonight. Can you adjust the hinges on the door to drop the front edge? Use the rocker moldings and set the bottom edge of the door parallel to it.

I used the door, the fender edge moldings and the wiper door moldings to get the height as close as possible. Don't forget the wiper door can be adjusted for height at the front as well as the back edge on each side.

I probably had everything on and off more than 100+ times before I was satisfied it was aligned properly.

Jim

 

I have lowered the door but then the body line does not match up .I have looked at other cars and some of the moldings tilt downward and some are level? when I reattached the fire wall all the original holes lined up

 

FWIW, my wife had a '79 for MANY years, after purchasing it brand new. That car had gaps you could drive a Mack truck through. For instance, I remember that the rear, upper portion of the drivers side door, right behind the handle, sat at least 1/8" below the rear quarter, while the bottom, along the rocker, fit like a glove.....

 

That photo looks good - there's a chrome piece that goes on top the fender to mate up with the chrome piece across the bottom of your windshield?

 

My 68 has that same little extra space where the top few inches of the door and fender meet, like in your pic, and its an original no hit body. Before it sees paint next year I will fix that with just a little fiberglass work in that area. Lookin good!

 

the gaps are as close to 3/16 as I can get and are pretty even the top what concerns me now.thanks

 

...It looks great even though I misspoke on what I thought was wrong...

 

the gaps were earlier today,photo bucket is having trouble uploading.thank you for the response and comments I need all the help I can get, the right fender is 1/2 inch lower?

 

i'm going through this myself right now.did you have to shim the rad support? thats the only way i can get mine that close. john

 

yes,I put shims in and that did help.I also have an issue with nose support when I installed the center bumper support it pushes up on the nose support?does your hood clear your wiper door? sometimes it takes a long time to get the answer you need

 

My '77 has similar gaps at top of door. Yours looks about the same. Where mine gets scary is at the middle of door body line to front fender when opening door. You could shave with that gap. Be sure to check that before you paint. With primer, paint and clear coat it could get close in a hurry. Great work, mike...

 

I measured the hood hinge bolts, on mine they ended up at 43 3/8" +/- on the D/S and 43 1/4" on the passenger side. I remember measuring other cars at anywhere from 42 1/2" to 43 1/2". The doors should be even, but remember that these cars were not perfectly even from the factory. As you said earlier, I've seen the fender edge trim sitting at various angles on many cars, especially the passenger side. When the trim is on it should be even with the top of the door.

I hung a reproduction jig built nose and had to break apart the passenger fender because it wasn't built right. The distance fro the top of the fender to the body line was 1/4" short on the passenger side.

How does the bottom of the fender & bottom of the door line up on the passenger side? Did you level the frame & check the level of the doors, fender tops etc? If the center nose bar is tight you may need to adjust the radiator support back a little. This will change the angle a small amount as well. Are the fender skirts already bonded in? You said earlier that it cam from a 68. If so you may need to elongate the holes in the rad support bolts to to get some wiggle room.

Jim

 

Your door installed height looks pretty good. See below for comparison. Do not use these pics as a guide for door gap. Your gap is already better than these.