And I'm off...

Background: It was my dad's 77, 52k miles all original, L-48.

- Fix map pocket
- Replace Speakers
- Install restored original radio
- Replace shifter and gauge consoles
- AC vents
- Clean all airducts
- Restore HVAC Controls (Was originally gonna replace, but the on I have is functional, just worn-out.)
- Clean shifter boot
- Replace PW switches
- Replace Defrost Switch
- Clean everything
- Completely Replace Ash Tray

Next Month:
- Carpets, seat-repairs, driver-side console, steer-column restore, steering wheel restore.


http://gallery.me.com/ellajaynesmith#100386

 

If you can disassemble and clean up the contacts on the original PW switches, you might be better off than installing 'new' aftermarket switches. Seems like those 'new' ones don't last long. If you choose to keep the ones you have, make sure you put some dielectric grease on the [cleaned up] contacts so they will not burn/corrode as quickly.

Changing the right side speaker is not a problem; but changing the one on the left side is a "bear". Your best approach is to take screws out of the driver's side dash panel (all of them), remove the [right side] bracket screw from the top dash panel, lower the steering column a bit, and pull the top dash panel away from the mounting clips. At that point, you can just weasel-in a hand to get the old speaker out and the new one in. Also, the impedence for the new speaker should be 10 ohms, or close to it. Most new auto speakers are 4 ohm and that is too little impedence to be a good match for your original radio. Your choices are as follows. First, you can also install a [4 ohm] speaker in each kick panel and wire them in series with the new [4 ohm] replacement speaker in the dash...so that the total impedance (on each side) is 8 ohms. That's what I did on mine, and there is no problem with frying the output transistors from having too great an impedence mismatch--plus the sound is MUCH better and fuller by having four speakers providing sound instead of two small ones. I highly recommend this approach. Your other alternative is to buy two speaker 'chokes' so that you can match your 10 ohm amp output to the [new 4 ohm] speaker and have the system be electrically correct. These are not expensive and only needs to carry 2-3 amps on the "amp" side and 3-5 amps on the "speaker" side of the choke.

When working on the heater/a/c control head, be sure to clean the contacts on the two 'reed' switches mounted to the left side of the assembly. Then, you need to make sure the switches work as they are supposed to by making and breaking connections to the A/C circuit as the left side thumb wheel moves through the selector choices. Those switches are really tricky, and sometimes you have to bend/manipulate them so that the correct connections are made to comply with your selection on the wheel.

 

Hi s05,
I looked at your pictures and it looks like you're on your way!
The birdcage DOES look solid in the pictures which is GOOD news.
Having Fun?
Regards,
Alan

 

Thanks 7T1, I got to the left speaker EXACTLY how you described it, funny.

Your advice about the speakers was key, I was trying to find the impedance on the OE stereo, thanks a million. I'll go with two more speakers in the kick panels, I kinda wanted to do that anyway. I was also playing with the idea of converting the high signal to low and plugging it into a new amp. I think I want to throw a sub in the back and then I could also make a line-in to the amp for a iPod/iPhone.

The HVAC controls work perfectly, I am just cleaning-up the rust and dirt, there is crap caked into all the vowels (the "o" in hot, the "d" in cold, etc.) Ha.

Alan, yeah, this thing is in great shape and has a lot meaning to me as my father bought it when I was 5, it's the first car I ever drove, my wife and went to the prom in it and now I am taking my daughter to preschool in it, I am so proud to be restoring it and I love sending snap shots to my dad as I go.

Great fun... makes we want to quit my job and really crank this out... but I have to take it easy... this is eating-up the cash pretty quickly. I have 3K budgeted over the next 12 months.

Next year will be paint... ugh.

 

smitsc05,

It looks great! This should be very rewarding for you...considering it has been in your family all those years. Your pictures look exactly like the mess I have in my garage right now! I have a 76 with red interior all tore apart! Good luck and have fun with it.

 

You may have some difficulty with adding an amp in that system...unless you just send the speaker outputs to it. I have been working on the same thing and have found that there is a DC level voltage 'riding' on the signal going to the convector unit (aluminum heat sink with output transistor(s) on it. If you use the signal line going to the convector to send into your aux amp, you have to put a 'DC blocking' capacitor in the line or it won't work properly. But, if you take off the speaker signals, then the signal you send into the new amp will be distorted due to the poor quality of that convector amp stage. [Damned if you do, damned if you don't...] I was working on that problem (or trying to) but discovered that the amp I had purchased was too large to fit behind the right dash panel. So I have to figure out Plan B.

Anyway, good luck on your work and let me know if you have success with the aux amp idea. I would suggest that you leave simple 4x6" speakers in the dash area and put 5x7" or 5-1/4" round speakers in the kick panel area. Those larger speakers should be 2-way speakers for mid-range and bass, and the dash speakers should only be for treble (or just inexpensive 1-cone speakers). That way, the treble is coming from the dash speakers and being reflected off the windshield [glass is very effective at reflecting treble range frequencies], and the lower speakers can handle the bass and mid-range frequencies. It works quite well and you don't have to put any crossover system in place to make it work. Also, all of those speakers should have low power ratings (under 30 watts or so). The Delco amp only put out 16 watts (RMS) and if you put low efficiency speakers [high watt capacity], you won't get much sound out of them. Anyway, low power speakers are less expensive...right? Now, if you figure out the aux amp situation and have power to burn, go for the inefficient but high-clarity speakers!!

 

Yeah, I was gonna send the speaker outs from Radio to a high-low converter (or an amp with a high input) and then the amp to the speakers and a sub. But this all just theory until I try it.

Finding a place for the amp will be the real trick.

I am doing the speakers like you said, larger, lower freq one in the kickers and higher freq in the dash. Since I plan to amp it, I got some fairly nice Polk speakers.

 

Sounds like a good plan. Let us know how you do with the aux amp.

 

Oh yeah, already having a blast and thankfully I haven't broken anything yet. My Old Man kept this in the garage and out of the sun so even the dash pulled right out without warming it up. What is most fun it seeing all my father's jerry-rigging and reverting it back to original shape. He had a few mods:

- Intermittent Wiper Controller
- A Kenwood Tape Deck, stereo (from 1981-ish)
- Power Antenna Switch burred through the Gauge Console
- 6x9 Speakers from the 80's just leaning against the wall inside the rear deck.
- He replaced the carpet once, so there are a bunch of stripped screws, I've had to drill out the sill plates in three places.

Fun, fun!

 

Too funny! I just drilled out my sill plates tonight. That is some of the toughest steel I have ever encountered! I went through several drill bits. I had to remove the sill plates in order to remove the kick panels in order to remove the door hinges so I could replace the hinge pins! It is amazing how one thing leads to another.

Last month I was going to fix my tachometer by installing a new circuit board. Before I was done with that project I had all new dash light bulbs (there are dozens and dozens of bulbs back there!), removed the stereo and sent it off to be restored and installed new speakers!

It is like it never ends...but it is fun!

Enjoy!

 

BTW - I ordered the entire interior screw set from Willcox. I think it was about $20. It is the best $20 I have ever spent. I have encountered stripped out screws, missing screws, even some drywall screws in certain places. I highly recommend this purchase! It makes life easier and certainly a better finished product.

 

Yup... and its a money pit... but worth it.

Yeah, I got the screw set too... indeed money well-spent.

 

Dumb question - did you have to remove the hinges to change pins? My sills and kicks are oout pending carpet install - maybe now is the time to tighten up my hinges!!!
Thx!

 

I did. I think it is easier. Others have done it in place. The problem with leaving the hinges in place is you will have to cut the old top pin out and you will have to grind off half of the head on the new pin - this is because the top pin will not clear the fender. Another benefit to removing the hinges is you can use a vice to help drive the bushings in and out - much easier than trying to do it in place.

If you remove them - just know that the door is extremly heavy! have help!

 

Thanks - I was considering doing one hinge at a time for that reason. But then again it might be easier to simply take the door off. I would want to spray the new hinges with matching paint before installing too.

 

The top hinges are accessed through/behind the dash - so it sounds like you would have to take more apart than what you currently have apart to so this job.