Exactly...
1969 corvette info please!!!!
Thread Starter
6th Gear
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: simi valley ca
1969 corvette info please!!!!
hey all, i had a few questions!
my partner and i bought a 1969 vette, and we would like some help finding out more about this car.. we intend on a full frame off resto and then sell..
this is what we know and have:
1969 convert.
black vinyl
daytona yellow
has date coded 427 block per the block casting numbers, pass side front block stamp is hard to make out due to the fact the engine was bored .060. we are missing the last digit on the stamp.. it ends with an L so we cant tell what 427 it is..until we take it apart
i do know it has a l88 solid cam and l88 intake. but since the block has been bored over who knows what was done.. could have been made to clone a L88
on the center console there is plate that states the L71 hp ratings 435hp 11.1 and the plate has same amount of decay as the console to indicate orig.
has m21 trans also 69 date coded and has 4.11 gears.. so it leads me to believe that this was a L71 car...
no side pipes.
my major ? is
is there anyway to know if this was a orig big block car, and or what bb was in it? without have the docs to back it up....
also whats the tag thats on the top of the gas tank.. not sure if we have it or not yet...
we just would like to know any and all ways to figure out as much history as we can on this car...
thanks again
erik
my partner and i bought a 1969 vette, and we would like some help finding out more about this car.. we intend on a full frame off resto and then sell..
this is what we know and have:
1969 convert.
black vinyl
daytona yellow
has date coded 427 block per the block casting numbers, pass side front block stamp is hard to make out due to the fact the engine was bored .060. we are missing the last digit on the stamp.. it ends with an L so we cant tell what 427 it is..until we take it apart
i do know it has a l88 solid cam and l88 intake. but since the block has been bored over who knows what was done.. could have been made to clone a L88
on the center console there is plate that states the L71 hp ratings 435hp 11.1 and the plate has same amount of decay as the console to indicate orig.
has m21 trans also 69 date coded and has 4.11 gears.. so it leads me to believe that this was a L71 car...
no side pipes.
my major ? is
is there anyway to know if this was a orig big block car, and or what bb was in it? without have the docs to back it up....
also whats the tag thats on the top of the gas tank.. not sure if we have it or not yet...
we just would like to know any and all ways to figure out as much history as we can on this car...
thanks again
erik
Last edited by SVTslayerZ06; Feb 2, 2011 at 03:01 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,189
Likes: 111
From: Tolland CT
The tag aka build sheet which is pasted to the top of the tank may be the only evidence you may have indicating whether this was originally a big block car. There's another recent post, another fellow asking the same thing. People provided a laundry list of parts which are unique to big block cars. Any of these parts could have been installed at any time, not proof of original configuration.Does your block have a partial serial number on the passenger side stamp pad, matching the vehicle ID? There should be two sets of numbers on the pad, one is the VIN derivative which may confirm or deny this block came with this car. The other is the engine build code and build date. The casting number should be correct for the car and casting date before the car was built, generally 1 - 3 months prior I think, maybe longer.
If you're planning on restoring and reselling as a big block car, it MUST have the original block and as much documentation as you can find to back up the claim this is an original big block. Many have been cloned. Otherwise it will likely sell only for what ever a buyer who will buy a non original is willing to pay.
Thread Starter
6th Gear
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 6
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From: simi valley ca
ahhh i see! thank you for the info.. the block stamp is hard to make out.. i can only make out the first set of numbers witch are T1031L since the block as been surfaced there are no other numbers or letters.. all there is a stamp by the machine shop indicating a .060 over bore... the casting number on back of block is 3955270
Team Owner
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From: Southbound
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,189
Likes: 111
From: Tolland CT
ahhh i see! thank you for the info.. the block stamp is hard to make out.. i can only make out the first set of numbers witch are T1031L since the block as been surfaced there are no other numbers or letters.. all there is a stamp by the machine shop indicating a .060 over bore... the casting number on back of block is 3955270
Thought I'd mention this since you talked about wanting to do a full frame off restoration for resale. Best you have a realistic idea of what you may be able to sell it for if you're not restoring for yourself.
Best of luck with your project. Love big block Vettes....
Last edited by BBCorv70; Feb 2, 2011 at 05:34 PM. Reason: fix typos
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,237
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From: Westminster Maryland
Hi erik,
I agree with bb70's thoughts.
The build sheet originally glued to the top of the gas tank is your best hope at this point.
The fact that you only see the assembly date code and part of the broadcast code for the engine configuration, but no VIN derivative on the stamp pad will raise questions in people's minds about the original engine in this car when it left St. Louis.
If you're doing the restoration to sell the car you REALLY need to know just what you have or you may end up putting more money in the restoration than the car is worth.
Here's an example of a build sheet and a typical sb stamp pad.
Regards,
Alan
I agree with bb70's thoughts.
The build sheet originally glued to the top of the gas tank is your best hope at this point.
The fact that you only see the assembly date code and part of the broadcast code for the engine configuration, but no VIN derivative on the stamp pad will raise questions in people's minds about the original engine in this car when it left St. Louis.
If you're doing the restoration to sell the car you REALLY need to know just what you have or you may end up putting more money in the restoration than the car is worth.
Here's an example of a build sheet and a typical sb stamp pad.
Regards,
Alan
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,189
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From: Tolland CT
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Austin Tx
The problem with documentation is that IMHO, it's becoming worthless. Too much of this stuff going on - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1967-...Q5fAccessories And the fakes are too good!
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Le Mans Master
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From: Peekskill NY
The build sheets sometimes also are found up under the dash, stuffed up above the steering column, tach, or under one of the carpets.
I've also heard about the acid technique. Might be worth a try to confirm, or not, if it's the original block. Post some pics of what you have.
Good luck, Glenn
I've also heard about the acid technique. Might be worth a try to confirm, or not, if it's the original block. Post some pics of what you have.
Good luck, Glenn
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2009
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2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Becoming worthless? Don't kid yourself. The fakes are too good for amateur eyes only, uninformed people too assuming and lazy to check it out. FYI there are people at NCRS who can spot reproductions in a heartbeat. They have decades of personal knowledge backed by an extensive library of what is real. You just might have to pay for an expert opinion though........
Racer
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 266
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From: York Pa.
The problem with documentation is that IMHO, it's becoming worthless. Too much of this stuff going on - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1967-...Q5fAccessories And the fakes are too good!
Administrator
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From: About 1100 miles from where I call home.
Becoming worthless? Don't kid yourself. The fakes are too good for amateur eyes only, uninformed people too assuming and lazy to check it out. FYI there are people at NCRS who can spot reproductions in a heartbeat. They have decades of personal knowledge backed by an extensive library of what is real. You just might have to pay for an expert opinion though........
This is the next logical step from the "I wouldnt get a numbers-matching car because they're ALL fakes so therefore they are ALL not worth anything" crowd. Whatever.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,189
Likes: 111
From: Tolland CT
BTW: I wouldn't say any Corvette is worthless either unless it's a rust bucket, missing most of its parts...
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Savannah GA
On another note, the OP sates the block is already at .060 and at the end of its readily rebored service life. If the bores are no longer in tolerance, there will be added expense sleeving the block (if original), and I personally would feel compelled to divulge that fact to a buyer after the restoration. Is a sleeved original block a deal killer from a collector's standpoint?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,189
Likes: 111
From: Tolland CT
In this case, numbers missing, I'm not sure a sleeved no numbers block is worth more than a clean 'correct' block. Neither will likely bring in the big $ an 'original' will.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,100
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From: Frederick Maryland
I think you should definitely rethink what you're doing. The market is so bad now for selling cars such as these, you better be prepared to take a big loss after any any competent restoration...even if it is a genuine L71 car. If you want to rebuild the car and enjoy it yourself, have at it. If you think you'll make money after a rebuild...take your chances but the chances aren't good.
I've been trying to sell my '69 L71 convertible for some months now...it's a multi-award winner, gone over and verified by a recognized Corvette expert and I've only been able to get offers barely 50% of the cars appraised value. I never expected to get the appraised value but it just shows how difficult it is right now. I'm fortunate in that I don't have to sell the car, but it's depressing that it can't bring even a reasonable offer right now. The market will eventually recover, but who knows how long that will be?
I've been trying to sell my '69 L71 convertible for some months now...it's a multi-award winner, gone over and verified by a recognized Corvette expert and I've only been able to get offers barely 50% of the cars appraised value. I never expected to get the appraised value but it just shows how difficult it is right now. I'm fortunate in that I don't have to sell the car, but it's depressing that it can't bring even a reasonable offer right now. The market will eventually recover, but who knows how long that will be?
Thread Starter
6th Gear
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 6
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From: simi valley ca
I hate to rain on your parade but if the VIN derivative is not on the stamp pad you may have a hard time getting near the premium price for an original L71. A build sheet off the tank would be helpful as would the correct casting number and casting date on the block. Some have stated there's a method using a mild acid to raise the numbers. I suspect many collectors will pass if the numbers aren't there. You may find some who will take all other evidence into account and possibly accept this as an authentic L71.
Thought I'd mention this since you talked about wanting to do a full frame off restoration for resale. Best you have a realistic idea of what you may be able to sell it for if you're not restoring for yourself.
Best of luck with your project. Love big block Vettes....
Thought I'd mention this since you talked about wanting to do a full frame off restoration for resale. Best you have a realistic idea of what you may be able to sell it for if you're not restoring for yourself.
Best of luck with your project. Love big block Vettes....
Thanks again for the help! As for the frame off i have a hotrod shop in simi valley! So this is not new to me, however the corvette is.. I have built plenty for customers but never a full resto to a matching numbers car. We have done a ton of camaros,chevelles,mustangs just never found a corvette that was worth restoring, atleast in the condition that we got ours.We came across this car threw a friend and it was a great deal for what we got..so i couldnt pass it up
Thread Starter
6th Gear
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 6
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From: simi valley ca
Thank you all for your info. I knew i could on the forum! The car runs and drives and and all the parts are there, it needs a few suspension parts and paint and some interior but for the most part just needs a good cleanning! We picked it up for 6gs. I can get it pretty much show quality for under 18g and in about 4-5 months. So never the less we can mack some cash! Going off what u all say i will not post it as a orig l71 but a very nice clone with the possiblity of being a real car. I would keep it but i have way to many of my own cars lol.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,189
Likes: 111
From: Tolland CT
Thank you all for your info. I knew i could on the forum! The car runs and drives and and all the parts are there, it needs a few suspension parts and paint and some interior but for the most part just needs a good cleanning! We picked it up for 6gs. I can get it pretty much show quality for under 18g and in about 4-5 months. So never the less we can mack some cash! Going off what u all say i will not post it as a orig l71 but a very nice clone with the possiblity of being a real car. I would keep it but i have way to many of my own cars lol.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,237
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From: Westminster Maryland
Hi,
I'm confused! (Often am!)
In your first post you said you "intend to do a full frame off restoration"; now it's changed to "a good clean-up and paint".
Isn't that two very different animals?
Regards,
Alan
I'm confused! (Often am!)
In your first post you said you "intend to do a full frame off restoration"; now it's changed to "a good clean-up and paint".
Isn't that two very different animals?
Regards,
Alan