baxsom

Ok,

So here I am researching the proper method for reinstalling my front wheel bearings and I come to a snag.

This post says to torque to 15 ft/lbs and then back off to the first hole for the cotter pin
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-bearings.html


that method is backed up by this article
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2006...el_bearing.asp


but this thread at the end says that 15 lbs is too much
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-question.html

then this thread just says to tighten and then back off for the cotter pin
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-bearings.html


so really and truly what is the correct method?

kdf1986

hello
I just watched a video today from one of the supporting vendors Vette Brakes and Products. They were replacing the front wheel bearings. In the video they tightened up the nut so the wheel bearings were snug, and then they backed off the nut until the rotor gave a little play when moving from side to side. Next they installed the cotter pin. They did not use a torque wrench in this and adusted it more by feel. That the rotor spun freely without binding or grinding, yet still had some slight play when moving the rotor side to side.

Check out their online video.

kdf

Rally68

15 ft lbs seems like a lot to me as well...I have not done a lot of these, but it seems to me if you go 15 and just back off to where you can get a pin in it, you could end up with some preload on those bearings. I used 8 ft lbs, although I can't tell you where I got that number from, I don't remember. Then backed off and tightened good by hand.

...Roger...

Do this.

my 76 ray

If the wheel doesn't spin freely once the cotter pin is inserted it is too tight.

7T1vette

If the bearing is fully seated on the spindle and you torque up to 15 ft-lbs (very light load, as far as the bearing is concerned), backing it off to the first available alignment of the thru-hole and a slot on the castle nut should remove all torque but leave a modest amount of free-play. If the bearing doesn't become unloaded when you find that cotter pin alignment slot, there is something wrong with the wheel assembly. Are you certain that the bearing's inner and outer races are fully seated on their respective components?

gdm78vette

From the 1978 Service Manual:
...
-Tighten the spindle nut to 12 ft. lbs. while turning the wheel assembly forward by hand to fully seat the bearings. This will remove any grease or burrs which could cause excessive wheel play later.
-Back off the nut to the "just loose" position.
-Hand tighten the spindle nut. Loosen spindle nut until either hole in the spindle lines up with a slot in the nut. (Not more than 1/2 flat).
-Install new cotter pin. Bend the ends of the cotter pin against nut, cut off extra length to ensure ends will not interfere with the dust cap.
-Measure the looseness in the hub assembly. There will be from .001 to .005 inches end play when properly adjusted...

Jay-Dog

finger tight, spin spin spin, finger tight, spin spin spin, finger tight, spin spin spin, back off 1/8 turn. This has worked for me for 25 years.

RonR80

Ditto I do the finger tight thing and never had a problems, once the up and down looseness is gone it's very close.Ron

whitehause

I always seems strange that the most important nut in holding the wheel on is only finger tight, but that's the way to do it. I've used an adjustable and spun the rotor forward till you feel some resistance , then back off and do the finger tight trick a couple times. It's a good idea to put a little torque on the nut the first time(8 to 10 lbs) just too make sure any excess grease gets squeezed out and you don't get excess run-out.

builder

To me, the only way you should ever put anything more than finger tight load on bearing is if it has a spacer between the bearings.
I agree with Jay-Dog, Ron Rail, and Whitehause on this one.

6T6Vet

"finger tight, spin spin spin, finger tight, spin spin spin, finger tight, spin spin spin, back off 1/8 turn. This has worked for me for 25 years" If it worked for Jay-dog for
25 years then I guess it will work for me.

PainfullySlow

Looks like we have another victim of the 'related thread' stuff going on with this forum. 6T6, this thread is 8 years old so I would not expect a response.

Maybe the mods will take a hint and turn that craptastic feature off...

derekderek

You should be able to feel the tiniest bit of play in the hub once it is cotter pinned. Like a couple thousandths.

6T6Vet

Whether the thread is 8 years old or not it gave me the info I was looking for. It's apparent I wouldn't have been getting the info I needed from you.

PainfullySlow

Not sure where that came from. My issue is with the site and how it takes you from one thread and automatically redirects you to a similar thread, sometimes without you knowing it which is why there have been a lot of people accidentally digging up old threads here lately. It is a site issue and one which multiple people have requested the moderators to fix.

But hey, if you want to take it personally, have at it as I couldn't care less what you think. Incidentally I literally just did front wheel bearings on my 72 three days ago, so the answer was on the tip of my fingers.

derekderek

He, We would rather people didn't revive threads. It worked for research. Leave it there, please. Ask same question-if there is one-in a new thread. We don't look at dates when reading a thread.

6T6Vet

Apparently you must care about it because you keep coming back to it. So why does my post concern you. I needed the info and found it. I thought that's what this forum is about unless you just want something to whine about.