Correct wheel bearing torque
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 5,284
Likes: 235
From: Rockledge FL
Correct wheel bearing torque
Ok,
So here I am researching the proper method for reinstalling my front wheel bearings and I come to a snag.
This post says to torque to 15 ft/lbs and then back off to the first hole for the cotter pin
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-bearings.html
that method is backed up by this article
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2006...el_bearing.asp
but this thread at the end says that 15 lbs is too much
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-question.html
then this thread just says to tighten and then back off for the cotter pin
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-bearings.html
so really and truly what is the correct method?
So here I am researching the proper method for reinstalling my front wheel bearings and I come to a snag.
This post says to torque to 15 ft/lbs and then back off to the first hole for the cotter pin
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-bearings.html
that method is backed up by this article
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2006...el_bearing.asp
but this thread at the end says that 15 lbs is too much
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-question.html
then this thread just says to tighten and then back off for the cotter pin
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-bearings.html
so really and truly what is the correct method?
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,652
Likes: 80
From: Lakeland Florida
hello
I just watched a video today from one of the supporting vendors Vette Brakes and Products. They were replacing the front wheel bearings. In the video they tightened up the nut so the wheel bearings were snug, and then they backed off the nut until the rotor gave a little play when moving from side to side. Next they installed the cotter pin. They did not use a torque wrench in this and adusted it more by feel. That the rotor spun freely without binding or grinding, yet still had some slight play when moving the rotor side to side.
Check out their online video.
kdf
I just watched a video today from one of the supporting vendors Vette Brakes and Products. They were replacing the front wheel bearings. In the video they tightened up the nut so the wheel bearings were snug, and then they backed off the nut until the rotor gave a little play when moving from side to side. Next they installed the cotter pin. They did not use a torque wrench in this and adusted it more by feel. That the rotor spun freely without binding or grinding, yet still had some slight play when moving the rotor side to side.
Check out their online video.
kdf
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 805
Likes: 5
From: Naperville Illinois
15 ft lbs seems like a lot to me as well...I have not done a lot of these, but it seems to me if you go 15 and just back off to where you can get a pin in it, you could end up with some preload on those bearings. I used 8 ft lbs, although I can't tell you where I got that number from, I don't remember. Then backed off and tightened good by hand.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
I tighten the nut while spinning forward, I use a wrench not concerned with torque just seating the bearings. Then I'll back the nut off and then finger tighten them,only sligthly backing off to align the cotter pin hole. They should rotate smooth and have about .002 endplay. If the hole doesn't line up then I'll grind the washer a few thousands.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,116
From: Crossville TN
If the bearing is fully seated on the spindle and you torque up to 15 ft-lbs (very light load, as far as the bearing is concerned), backing it off to the first available alignment of the thru-hole and a slot on the castle nut should remove all torque but leave a modest amount of free-play. If the bearing doesn't become unloaded when you find that cotter pin alignment slot, there is something wrong with the wheel assembly. Are you certain that the bearing's inner and outer races are fully seated on their respective components?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,206
Likes: 64
From: Bocabec, New Brunswick
From the 1978 Service Manual:
...
-Tighten the spindle nut to 12 ft. lbs. while turning the wheel assembly forward by hand to fully seat the bearings. This will remove any grease or burrs which could cause excessive wheel play later.
-Back off the nut to the "just loose" position.
-Hand tighten the spindle nut. Loosen spindle nut until either hole in the spindle lines up with a slot in the nut. (Not more than 1/2 flat).
-Install new cotter pin. Bend the ends of the cotter pin against nut, cut off extra length to ensure ends will not interfere with the dust cap.
-Measure the looseness in the hub assembly. There will be from .001 to .005 inches end play when properly adjusted...
...
-Tighten the spindle nut to 12 ft. lbs. while turning the wheel assembly forward by hand to fully seat the bearings. This will remove any grease or burrs which could cause excessive wheel play later.
-Back off the nut to the "just loose" position.
-Hand tighten the spindle nut. Loosen spindle nut until either hole in the spindle lines up with a slot in the nut. (Not more than 1/2 flat).
-Install new cotter pin. Bend the ends of the cotter pin against nut, cut off extra length to ensure ends will not interfere with the dust cap.
-Measure the looseness in the hub assembly. There will be from .001 to .005 inches end play when properly adjusted...
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Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 613
Likes: 3
From: Fleetwood PA
I always seems strange that the most important nut in holding the wheel on is only finger tight, but that's the way to do it. I've used an adjustable and spun the rotor forward till you feel some resistance , then back off and do the finger tight trick a couple times. It's a good idea to put a little torque on the nut the first time(8 to 10 lbs) just too make sure any excess grease gets squeezed out and you don't get excess run-out.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,148
Likes: 5
From: South Dakota
To me, the only way you should ever put anything more than finger tight load on bearing is if it has a spacer between the bearings.
I agree with Jay-Dog, Ron Rail, and Whitehause on this one.
I agree with Jay-Dog, Ron Rail, and Whitehause on this one.
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 77
Likes: 4
"finger tight, spin spin spin, finger tight, spin spin spin, finger tight, spin spin spin, back off 1/8 turn. This has worked for me for 25 years" If it worked for Jay-dog for
25 years then I guess it will work for me.
25 years then I guess it will work for me.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 1,219
Likes: 365
From: Tolland CT
Maybe the mods will take a hint and turn that craptastic feature off...
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 77
Likes: 4
Whether the thread is 8 years old or not it gave me the info I was looking for. It's apparent I wouldn't have been getting the info I needed from you.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 1,219
Likes: 365
From: Tolland CT
But hey, if you want to take it personally, have at it as I couldn't care less what you think. Incidentally I literally just did front wheel bearings on my 72 three days ago, so the answer was on the tip of my fingers.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 13,082
Likes: 3,399
From: SW Florida.
He, We would rather people didn't revive threads. It worked for research. Leave it there, please. Ask same question-if there is one-in a new thread. We don't look at dates when reading a thread.
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 77
Likes: 4
Not sure where that came from. My issue is with the site and how it takes you from one thread and automatically redirects you to a similar thread, sometimes without you knowing it which is why there have been a lot of people accidentally digging up old threads here lately. It is a site issue and one which multiple people have requested the moderators to fix.
But hey, if you want to take it personally, have at it as I couldn't care less what you think. Incidentally I literally just did front wheel bearings on my 72 three days ago, so the answer was on the tip of my fingers.
But hey, if you want to take it personally, have at it as I couldn't care less what you think. Incidentally I literally just did front wheel bearings on my 72 three days ago, so the answer was on the tip of my fingers.
Apparently you must care about it because you keep coming back to it. So why does my post concern you. I needed the info and found it. I thought that's what this forum is about unless you just want something to whine about.
