I have a 73 with a flares and non matching numbers.

I have a new TPI corvette 350 engine and a procharger to install.

So here is the main question.

What all continually tears up in these cars?

I don't care about powersteering leak, I can deal with that.

I plan on new motor, shocks, u-joints, soft brake lines, brake pads, master cylinder, and wheel bearings.

I'm wanting the 73 to be a daily driver, and I have a pickup for a back up.

I know there are quirks with old cars. I've had several, but just curious as to what quirks these cars have.

Thanks

 

I'm trying to decide wheither to throw the new motor in and start driving. Or just sell it and buy something different.

But if I don't have to worry about being left on the side of the road or continually working on it to keep it off the side of the road. I can deal with it.

I don't care about leaks, or annoying things. Really just the things that will keep me off the road. But please do include all issues.

Thanks

 

I used mine as a daily driver before I blew the motor and will again when I get the new one in. Other than the usual old car stuff I have not had any real problems. With a new motor, brake pads and that kind of thing I think you will be just fine.

 

I think "all" issues covers the possibilities nicely. It's a nearly 40 year old car. If you're changing the motor then things have already gone wrong and other things will go wrong. No telling which part will fail next. It will also depend on the current condition of the car and how it has been maintained.

If you want reliable, get a Ford Focus.

One other issue that you need to consider before making a Vette your daily driver. If something brakes, it isn't easy to find a shop that will be able to deal with the issues in a reasonable time frame. As a for instance, if your trailing arm bearing fails, where will you take it? Will you have to fix it yourself? If so, how long can you afford to have it on blocks in your driveway? Do you have a driveway where you can have it up for a week or more?

Many have used these cars as daily drivers but I would think they are the exception rather than the rule. I'd suggest making sure your backup is ready and well maintained.

 

I would be more concerned about the reliability of the 'new' TPI and ProCharger system (and all the 'stuff' to make it work) than any 40 year-old factory mechanisms.

 

I have the original 327 that was taken out of my 68 prior to putting in the 572. It was rebuil 3 or 4 years ago and I dont think it had many miles on it since. Was originally planning on keeping it but I don think I will ever be switching back . Just an FYI if your interested.

 

That original 327 would sure be a nice compliment to the sale of your Vette if you would ever decide to do a toy realignment.

 

You are correct and you never know when you may decide to realign. Probably best to keep it. We'll see.

 

Things that have broken on mine:

Many coolant lines (heater core->intake, intake->radiator, etc)
Calipers leaking
Rear side yolks
Bushings in general (Trailing arm, sway bar, etc)
Power window motors and regulators
Alternator
A/C Blower motor
Starters (a ton, mainly due to headers)

 

Too many unknowns in your post. Not enough info about you, the car, and your gear to offer anything other than generic help. Your scenarios leave more questions than answers.

7T1vette and CA-Legal-Vette sum up big chunks: dropping in a TPI with Procharger will be the least of your worries in a 38 yo car. Any vehicle used as a DD should have a firm baseline to work from: chassis, suspension, brakes, electrical would be starting points. It has to be controlled, regardless how much power you slide between the frame rails.

You asked what tears up? Like any DD: tires, brakes, lighting, alignments, wipers and glass, to name some. Corvettes sit lower too so that lower CG exposes you to many things not seen in a higher jet-stream. Don't let anything fall on you.

You're lucky if you don't have to deal with cold weather or snow. A rear wheel drive sports car is fine on dry roads but the next time it's caught in bad weather, could leave you wishing you'd driven the truck.

 

The same thing go wrong in any car (new or used) can go wrong in a old car....

BUT I can tell you that my 72 Convertible was purchased new and I did in fact drive it daily for 3-4 years....and it honestly held up pretty well...but that was a long long time ago...what I learned real fast was to lock the headlight UP and lock the wiper Door UP every fall because of ice storms and snow... neither would work with a 1/4 inch of ice on them or more then 2 or 3 inches of snow....

PLUS driving in snow was an adventure...PERIOD... half ounce of pressure on the gas pedal and the rear end kicks out...and you have to slip the clutch at every stop sign or red light...

Personally I'd hold off on installing the new engine and drive it and replace what breaks in the next 6 months then think about dropping in a new engine IF you feel like it...

Looking back almost 35 or so years I honestly do not remember just how difficult these cars were to drive daily especially in "weather" compared to a more modern car...

Bob G.

 

I rode in an original 62 Bubble Top Impala yesterday. Nice car, it was owned by a mechanic. His son just drove it out from Oklahoma (to San Jose, CA). If they are serviced regularly they run just fine. When engines are pumped up, they run great when right but may not be so dependable.

 

Thanks guys,

My car no longer has flip lights. And I have a chevy truck to drive on rainy or bad weather days.

My drivetrain looks good, and bushings look to have been replaced at some time. But still are worn.

I understand normal wear and tear. I'm going to try to knock out whatever could leave me stranded. My dad once had a 67 427 stingray. He was continually replacing drivetrain. But he had 525hp, and never let his foot out.

I think I'm going to go ahead a build it.

 

I'm going to rewire guages, windows, and install rear air in the compartment behind the seats. Ill make a new lid with custom vent to blow. Between seats.

I'm going to pull the dash a/c out of a 90's chevy truck and runs lines to it in compartment. It will never be seen and both units together should freeze me in Texas heat. Better yet. The unit will only cost $40.00 at the local savage yard. The lines and new dryer will cost probably around $200.00.

But that is later and a definate.

 

Keep carb with 450hp or go with TPI & Procharger 400+ hp and 24mpg.

Bowtie transmission claims that a 350 or 383 with the right carb, cam, gears and their 700r4; they can get you 21-23 hwy mpg. They have seen 24mpg on a few occasions.

Has anyone else achieved this? Is so Ill stay carbed.

 

The more stuff you modify or create on your own, the more chance of issues arising over stock stuff unless you are really good at working on cars. In which case, you would not have asked the original question.

Simply put, Chevy didn't build it as an unreliable vehicle and if you stay all stock, or mostly so, then other than items breaking or dying from old age or excessive use, things should run fine.

Many of the aftermarket high tech systems work fine in limited use, but the grind of daily commutes up strains on them.

If yours is running right now, I'd check the stuff that is likely bad now like brake hoses, brake seals, water hoses, ignition cables, and such, and then begin driving it to see what is and isn't in good shape. Do it on the weekend when you have time to fool with it instead of when you are fighting rush hour traffic to work.

Put a few hundred miles like this and you will get some confidence in the reliability of each system and then can fix/update/repair as needed.

Any old car can break, just like any newer car. I had my '79 running fine after several months of putting it all together and went to Taco Bell 5 miles away for lunch one day. Came out to see a trail of green coolant across the parking lot. Heater hose burst. That could happen on anything that wasn't brand new.

Then after you have confidence in the car, and are confident of what really needs to be replaced, change the engine if it is unreliable or running bad. Or if you just have to have more power.

 

Are you going to run two AC compressors? There is a law about conservation of energy, and you can only remove the amount of heat that the compressor gives you the energy to do. If you go through the seals on your factory AC, then it should begin to work correctly and cool you.

If you don't have factory air, then this setup you describe might be a good idea.



You should also inspect the underdash wiring for cracks, bare wires, breaks, bad splices, and such. If the wiring is in good shape, why spend $300 to $500 for a new wiring harness?

 

Yes, ZZ383,700R4 from "Phoenix Transmission" in Weatherford Texas. 20mpg ...

 

Please don't split up a matching numbers car.

 

I say he do whatever he wants with his car.