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Old Mar 26, 2011 | 07:00 AM
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Default '81 calipers

I bought my car in '08 and sometime in '09 replaced all 4 calipers. Sometime in 2010 one of the front ones started leaking, so I had a shop replace it. Another shop I use has informed me that both front calipers are leaking! As far as the one that the other shop goes, I will stop back out there and discuss the issue with them, but honestly, being caliper #3 I'm not too eager to get another of that same brand. I do not recall what brand the first set were, just whatever my local parts store carried. So my question is, is there a brand to recommend or any other advice/ideas? Something that could be causing the seals to break? With the second front caliper I just figured it was a bad caliper, but to be going on #3 is unacceptable.
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Old Mar 26, 2011 | 07:56 AM
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You have two things at play.
1. You are buying poorly remanufactured calipers that do not employ stainless steel sleeves around the pistons.
2. Your rotors are out of spec for either thickness or round (runout) and it is causing excessive flexing of the caliper pistons leading to the failure.
My guess is number 2 because even if you have good calipers you can ruin them quickly with dodgy rotors.
For quality brake components, consult Muskegon Brake. Replace all the rotors and calipers. You can do this yourself with minimal tools and effort and save yourself the labor charges. If you purge the system of all brake fluid and replace it with DOT5 fluid you will not have to service your brakes again for a long, long time.

Last edited by 79L48; Mar 26, 2011 at 08:01 AM.
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Old Mar 26, 2011 | 08:02 AM
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VB&P has a March Madness sale going on now for calipers,rotors, and kits that include all. They are a sponsor of this forum. Look at the top header bar.... click on them.... just bought a set of 4 calipers, they are premium.
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Old Mar 26, 2011 | 08:17 AM
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First off, are they stainless steel sleeved calipers? Calipers that aren't sleeved, tend to rust and pit in the cylinder bore. This causes them to leak and tear up seals. That is why the after market started sleeving them 35+ years ago.

If they are stainless sleeved, then you may want to go to a Corvette vendor for calipers. Most of the Corvette caliper companies guarantee the sleeves for life. They usually only guarantee the seals for 3 to 6 months, but will often stand behind leaking calipers, that leak after a little longer period of time.

How often do you use the car. If you don't use it to often, you may want to look at o-ring seal calipers. These are recommended for cars that sit, and will last longer under those conditions, than the standard lip seal calipers. You'll probably have to go to a Corvette vendor, to find o-ring calipers. I don't think any of the AutoZone/Pep Boys type parts places carry them.

You may want to talk to the guys at Muskegon Brake. They're located in Mich. and specialize in Corvette brakes.
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Old Mar 26, 2011 | 09:55 AM
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If the rotor runout was bad enough to cause the seals to fail, the car would be undriveable. Look elsewhere for the root cause. I've never heard of seals failing in less than a year or two.
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 12:55 AM
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Thanks for the responses. As far as the rotors go, all I can really say is that none of the mechanics who have looked at the brakes have said anything about the rotors and as long as I actually have brakes, the car stops smoothly. I will look into the Muskegon place. As for the stainless steel sleeves, that may have been the issue with the left caliper last spring, but not sure.
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 01:01 AM
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Originally Posted by mikejpss
.... just bought a set of 4 calipers, they are premium.
are they all Delco-Moraine?
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 03:54 PM
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I dont think most places would consider the rotor runout. They would do a visual check of the rotor to look for scratches or wear, and maybe do a thickness check to see if it is worn down too much. But you cannot visually check rotor runout. For that you need a tool or gauge that contacts the rotor surface as it is rotated to determine if the rotor has a wobble to it. The difference in thickness at varying locations is not really a true runout indicator, but could also add to the problem.

kdf
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Old Mar 29, 2011 | 11:11 PM
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On Monday the other mechanic checked them out (even showed me) and the calipers were dry, no sign of leaking. Odd, but not really going to question it, but will continue to monitor them.
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Old Mar 29, 2011 | 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by sabre1981
On Monday the other mechanic checked them out (even showed me) and the calipers were dry, no sign of leaking. Odd, but not really going to question it, but will continue to monitor them.
It sounds like the one shop was trying to make a little extra cash, by doing some repairs that weren't needed!
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Old Mar 30, 2011 | 11:13 PM
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Don't have a answer for your problem, but I have heard of Corvette calipers leaking after the car sat for a long time, like in storage and then are fine after it has been driven a little bit. Also is it still possible to even buy replacement calipers that don't have stainless steel inserts in the piston bores? Tim
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Old Mar 31, 2011 | 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Tim81
Don't have a answer for your problem, but I have heard of Corvette calipers leaking after the car sat for a long time, like in storage and then are fine after it has been driven a little bit. Also is it still possible to even buy replacement calipers that don't have stainless steel inserts in the piston bores? Tim
Yes it is, though I don't know why anyone would just to save a buck or two.
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Old Mar 31, 2011 | 06:49 PM
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My 80 has all 4 remanufactured calipers. my left front leaks a little when stored in the cold garage all winter. When I start driving it , its fine. I have heard that the o-ring type seals are best for stored cars???
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Old Mar 31, 2011 | 07:52 PM
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i had the ss brakes leak also .i now have just regular lifetime calibers from autozone .i have had one leak and they where happy to replace .if a car sits alot ,you have more chance of a leak .the more i drive my car the better it runs and the brakes are fine.
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Old Apr 1, 2011 | 08:29 PM
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The theory we came up with was that when shop A took them off to do the ball joints, they disturbed the seals, letting air in the lines and causing them to leak. Took it back to Shop A and they bled the brakes and then as I drove it, somehow the seals worked back into the correct position and thus, no more leak.
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