I have always wanted a C3 vette. I may get a chance soon to buy one and need some pointers. I have been involved in the Pontiac hobby for the last 6 years and i know there are some differences. First off. I had never previously gotten into Vettes because they seem to be too pricey for me. In fact my dream 67 with a 4 speed and 427 is simply out of reach right now. I know i need to be concerned about originality or I may purchase what amounts to nothing more than a pile of parts. The reality is I may not be able to afford an all original C3 because i prefer a big block. help school me on what to avoid and what to look for please !

 

Nothing special about buying an old Corvette then it is from buying an old Pontiac except to remember that under that fiberglass body there is a bunch of metal that does rust....so check out the rust .... the dog leg area directly in front of the rear wheels the birdcage, the windshield frame ..heck the list goes on an on...

A lot of guys play the matching numbers game...and pay thru the nose because of that other do not worry about matching numbers and just enjoy the car .

Bob G.

 

It's all a question of what you are looking for. If you want something to cruise with on the weekends or a glorified paper weight. Trust me I know people who have both types of cars. Like stated above, frame condition is extremely important. Then from there it's simply a matter of trial and error. Look to the body and all of it's components, then look to the powertrain...on and on and on. Matching numbers and documentation are nice, but not completely necessary. Again, it depends on how authentic of a car you're looking to purchase vs. a weekend warrior cruiser. After you get by that idea, it should be easy for ya. 1/2 the fun of owning one is the thrill of the hunt!

 

I had one years ago, big block 67 roadster. They drive a bit differently than a C3. I like the clean lines of the 67 but didn't like the feel of the interior so I went back to a C3.

You may get this attitude from some numbers people. I can assure you there are plenty of decent non matching numbers Corvettes out there going for a more affordable price than the numbers cars. The numbers on the block make no difference in how the car looks, drives, or is admired by many. If you're looking at this for investment value or as a collector, that's another matter, then the #s are important.

This has been my point in many prior posts. If your budget doesn't allow for a 'numbers' big block, a NOM big block (block has been replaced) may be within reach for you. Ideally a big block Corvette which was originally equiped with a big block, most likely has all the correct parts.

Rust is a huge concern with Corvettes this old. Some is hard to detect without removing parts for inspection. Briefly, windshield frame, #2 and #3 body mounts, rocker channels, frame dog leg in front of the rear wheels, radiator support, and front cross member are common rust areas. The parts which may be unbolted and replaced are not a huge concern. On the other hand rust in the birdcage is VERY expensive to repair, a lot of labor involved, unless you do it yourself.

There have been several threads running which talk about rust. Many have photos which may help guide you. Some other threads talk about differences between big block Corvettes and those originally built with small blocks, what to look for.

 

Any C3 can become a big block car, unless you live in a state like California where smog laws prohibit certain modifications. If you were to find an excellent deal on a 1974 small block car for instance, simply shooting the lock off the kid's college fund can net you a big block at any time. A 74 might be the ticket either way since it is the last year for factory 454 power, and there's no catalytic converters to contend with either way.

 

Your homework starts here:



Covers all C3 model years. Worth the price of a copy.

 

Go look at all you can and walk (or run) away from anything with a rusty frame or birdcage. Then buy the best condition, documented, real deal, original 427/390 4-speed coupe that you can afford. If you have extra bucks, get a convertible, tri-power, or both. It doesn't have to be a neglected barn find, nor does it have to be a NCRS Top Flight car. There are many cars in between. Don't pull the trigger without having an early C3 expert inspect it. Make sure it is one you really like so that you will enjoy working and spending money on it for years to come. There will never be a better time than now.

Don't listen to those who say it doesn't matter what you end up selling the car for some day...bunch of bull. I've worked damn hard for my money and I sure as hell care what I do with it. My car is a hobby and it was not purchased as an investment to make money with. Neither was it intended to be a losing money pit.

 

see thats what im talking about. wasnt even thinking about cars with cat converters...

i assume the "birdcage" means the top ?

 

"Birdcage" is the steel structure surrounding the cockpit and on which all the body panels are eventually mounted.



Cowl bonded to birdcage; birdcage mounted on the underbody.

 

gotcha ! hard to see rust there without a flashlight !

 

Hi bn,
A few thoughts on buying a 68+ Corvette.
You'll soon realize that there are cars available at a w i d e range of prices.
Buy the book Mike shows and begin to learn why.
Re-read Rat's message. It's the truth.
Learn how to competently check for rust. If you buy a car without realizing the actual rust situation you will have paid too much for it.
In my opinion the more original a car is the better it will hold it's value as the years go by. For some people that's VERY important.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

 

YES ! Seen them going from 15k to over 60k for the early 70's ! I really want a 454 with auto trans and t tops. Not worried about all the numbers matching up as long as its period correct real chevy stuff. Not Chinese parts and shade tree fixes. There are a few on eBay right now. Are the sponsored vendors here a better deal ? Or will I pay more from a "dealer" ?


Are there experts on the forum that live near Philly who can check one out for me ?

 

Absolutely!

What price range are we talking about here? A tri-power has to go for big $$. Even an original 427/390 may be rather pricey. So far as the convertible goes, depends on personal tastes. They may go for more but speaking only for myself, I owned one once and didn't like it. Went back to a coupe, my preference.

My thought was if an 'original' big block, one with the original motor still there is out of this fellows financial reach, a NOM may be a cheaper alternative. A NOM will never be an investment grade vehicle, mainly a driver.

So far as money pits go, any Corvette, numbers or not can be a money pit.

If this fellow can find a big block Corvette with the original motor, within his budget, great, go for it. If not, there are alternatives.

 

If you don't care about having an 'original' car, don't buy one. If you spend extra money for a numbers-matching car, you will forever be keeping up that 'original condition' game. It's trouble and can be expensive. If you look for a lightly modified car (looks correct, but details are not exactly right, some parts are not present, engine and/or tranny has been replaced), you can buy for a lot less money and still have fun making it run and look good.

Tip of the Day: Focus your purchase on the condition/quality of the important aspects of the car...the major operating systems like, engine, trans, brakes, steering, suspension and, of course, the integrity of the frame/birdcage. Once you find a car that has those things in decent order, THEN you can look at the 'appearance' items to see if you like it well enough to buy it. Most folks do it the other way around and buy on "looks". Then they get it home and find out they bought a nice looking horror case!

If there are major systems of a potential car that are not working...but you are still interested in it...discount the purchase price for the amount of money and lost time/effort that it will take to repair that system. Take your time searching for the car you want and stay on target until you find it. Good luck.

 

Thanks for the input guys. I'll go get that book and report back !

 

Do guys ever find a numbers matching motor for a vette that is missing one ? Sounds like a needle in a haystack and not to be expected....

 

Yes it does happen though rare. There have been several threads on this topic. However, with this very lucky find comes quite a bit of skepticism. Suspicion that the 'find' could just be a restamped block made to look like the original.

If you get into a 'numbers' big block, best to have documentation PROVING the car was originally built as a big block. There are a number of fakes floating around out there, Corvettes upgraded from a small block appearing to be original big blocks, hence a growing skepticism in those without documentation. When these cars begin to bring in more $$ they become targets for fraud. A 'numbers' small block is more readily accepted without documentation, less likely to be faked.

All up to you, what you are interested in, what you can afford.

 

I think i have narrowed it down to a 1970 coupe with a big block. probably NOM. wish me luck.....

 

The 70 big block was my first choice. Had mine for 28 years now.

Nothing against the 'numbers' cars if you can find one which fits your budget. Otherwise it seems a NOM may be your only other choice unless you are willing to sacrifice the big block for a numbers small block.

Good luck with your search. Recruit a knowledgeable Corvette person to assist with inspection. Numbers or not, there are problems you need to look for, mainly rust, which will kill any deal.

 

My favorite year! Good luck and take lots of detailed pics above & underneath, interior, engine, when you go look it over. Try to get a pic of the engine stamp pad below the right front head, to compare to the VIN.
You've gotten great advice, hope the 70 works out, but be patient and keep looking if you're skeptical.
Glenn