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has anyone ordered the bare door panels and transferred all the trim from their deluxe panels? I have a 76 with warped door panels and thought I might be able to save some money by doing this. Is this a huge PITA do do? Thanks!
I bought the panels with all the stuff already on them and it looks like how the old panels were done. Shouldn't be an issue in my opinion but may not be worth the trouble. My old trim wasok but those tabs could easily break
Anybody else want to chime in on this? I'm about to do the same thing and am wondering if I can do the job and have it look good. Wilcox you out there?
For the extra small additional cost, I would just order the complete door panels. You will be transferring old/dull/scratched up parts onto brand new panels - they will really stand out then.
I have swapped door panel trim. Not rocket science, but piddly. I made the swap on one-year-only 68 panels at a time when reproduction panels with new trim installed were not available leaving me with no choice but to swap.
If I had a do-over, I would probably purchase the panels with the trim installed.
Just the same, if you want to save a bit, transferring the trim is do-able. It also gives you a chance to clean up and repaint the trim during the transfer.
Have you removed the old stuff yet? Like said a lot of it may be damaged/broken after you remove it.
Sorry for the hi-jack.
No haven't had the guts to try yet. It all looks pretty good for a '75, but some pieces have screws and some look like they have pins bent over.
Lining everything up without a template will be tricky, and the pins may break if unbent and re-bent. Maybe complete deluxe is the better way to go....
Completed this last year. Ordered plain panels and swapped my deluxe pieces to the new panels. The only PITA part was the lock **** plate piece that is originally attached with rivets and washers. Once the washers are removed there is not enough meat left on the rivet to attached on the new panel. Other than that everything else was easy.
If your door hardware is in good condition...or you can polish and repaint it...there is no reason to buy new hardware. For the lockplate, just drill a small hole in the center of each mounting trunion (which you have to cut off to remove from the old door panel). When you reinstall it, just mix up some JB Weld putty-type epoxy (or stick epoxy, as some call it), work it down into the holes and then put a "head" on each trunion to retain the plate. It will harden in less than 30 minutes and allow you to keep working. No big deal.
For the curved trim on the door, carefully straighten out the pointed 'spikes' on the backside of your door so they are very straight, then remove the trim. When you get ready to reinstall it, use your original panel as a guide as to where to put some small holes so that the trim will fit properly. Try to mark the locations of those holes exactly as they are on your original door. Then use a sharp awl or other sharp device to punch a small pilot hole for the attachment spikes. You only get one chance at this. If you mess up, a hole may be visible in your door panel. "Measure twice; cut once."
Use similar process for the other stuff. If you do a nice job refurbing the hardware before installation, the new panel will be as good as the factory piece was.
I baught bare panels and swapped everything over from the old panel, it was very easy. I think one of the things that made it so easy, was the fact that the old panels were not the original ones either. The old panels were CA panels, just like the bare ones.
The only difference on the standard to deluxe is the lower carpet boot and molding. Both are very easy to install. The lower boot can be stapled to the door panel on the backside with an industrial stapler or something as simple as an old Swingline.
The only difference on the standard to deluxe is the lower carpet boot and molding. Both are very easy to install. The lower boot can be stapled to the door panel on the backside with an industrial stapler or something as simple as an old Swingline.
Thanks Willcox, I can see that now. This may have to wait a bit. I am in the process of buying side pipes, and don't have the $ to do both. Maybe Carlisle show. Thanks to everyone else who contributed, too.
Ed
Re: Removing/attaching lock-plate. Remove the old plate by popping off the washers on the back. This will (should) leave posts to poke thru the new panel. Attach with "speed-nuts" (available thru Lowes, Home Depot, etc).
Bill
Re: Removing/attaching lock-plate. Remove the old plate by popping off the washers on the back. This will (should) leave posts to poke thru the new panel. Attach with "speed-nuts" (available thru Lowes, Home Depot, etc).
Bill