1981 Corvette Introduction
I just bought a 1981 Vette for 2k. White w Red Interior. Its missing T-Tops, carpet is faded (was going to try carpet dye for this), and also missing emblems. It hasnt been on the road for 12 years, has 58k on it. It is currently non-op in CA, was last on the road in 1998 and was sitting in an alley. Though it doesnt look too bad. I think it has hope. It started right up and I drove it a block despite the rough engine.

The car is all original so Im going to stick with the ECM unit. I want to keep it that way since I'm in CA and dont want to replace the carb distr as some people mentioned doing on here. I want to try to pass smog with the orignal setup.

Engine runs real rough. There is no major smoke coming out the back. Just a tiny bit of grey smoke from the rough engine, I believe. Sounds like it is not running on all cylinders. The wires are really old looking... I'm starting with a basic tuneup (spark plugs, pcv, wires, fuel filter, ...?)

Check engine light is always on so I am going to check the computer codes after researching what that entails.

Headlights will not go up and take a while to go down. I already found a diagram on here for this and will troubleshoot, but not my priority. The rough engine is my priority.

Also the horn was cut because the alarm was always going off. Prob after the stolen T-tops? The seller mentioned this to me. He bought a new battery for it the day I looked at it so I think it may be killing batteries. Just a guess. I'm sure hes not telling me everything.

This is just an introduction to my new project. I'll post photos when I get them. You'll hear back from me after I replace the plugs, wires, dist rotor, pcv, and then check the error codes.

Look forward to contributing to this board.

 

white with red interior...what a classic vette color combo
...I'd be happy with that deal

 

I would agree that a complete tune-up is the first place to start, with the rough running engine. I would also drain the gas and and replace it with fresh fuel.

It's pretty easy to check the engine codes. The test terminal connector is under the shift console, pull the ashtray out, and it's right there. The connector has 5 terminals. To activate the codes, you need to jumper the "D" & "E" terminals. The ignition will need to be on, but the engine not running, to perform the test.

When you perform the test, the check engine light will flash code "12" (one flash, a short pause followed by two flashes, then after a longer pause, it will repeat the one flash, and two flashes). 12 is the test code to indicate the system is functioning properly. Any stored fault codes will then flash after the "12" code, in the same manor as the 12. So if you have a MAP Sensor problem (code 34), when you jumper the connector, you will get the doubled flash code for 12 and then three flashes a short pause four flashes, a longer pause and then a repeat of the three and four flashes, for fault code 34. If there is more than one code saved, they will all flash in the same manner, and in numerical order. So you could have code 12, followed by 22 (TPS Circuit), 44 (Lean Exhaust) and 55 (Faulty ECM). Post any codes you get on the Forum, and someone will decode them for you.

Your headlight problem is surely in the vacuum system. Assuming all the hoses are good, I would bet it's the seals on the headlight actuators, or the relay valves. This is a regular issue for owners of 68-82 Corvettes, and you will find lots of help on the Forum, with you lamp problems, as we've all been through it.

I don't think your horn problem is related to the alarm, or the missing T-tops. The 81 alarm system has a starter interrupt, that would prevent the car from starting, if the alarm is activated. Cutting power to the horns will keep them from blowing, but the starter interrupt will still function.

The system is armed by either the power door lock switch, or the manual lock button (on cars without power locks). The only way to lock an 81, without arming the alarm, is to lock it from the outside, with the door lock key. The alarm is deactivated by unlocking a door with the key, or starting the car.

Earlier Corvettes used a dedicated horn for the alarm, but starting in 81, the alarm utilized the car's standard horns. Chances are that your horns were staying on because either the horn contact/button retainer, or the horn relay, are bad.

 

sad to say I gave the car back and the guy refunded me. over 900 in registration fees turned me off. also when I looked at the bottom of the thing I noticed all of the disintegrated rubber and realized the car requires a major restore. A little more than I want to handle.

The engine was a L82 which is very rare. I almost stuck with the deal because of this but the registration on the thing was just too much.

I'll be back when I find another project.

 

$900 to register a $2000 car??? That's insane why is it so much? If it was running(albiet roughly) and you were able to drive it, it was worth the 2 grand. Complete tuneup and new carpet you're looking at under $600, if the brakes were shot that would have been another $400 for SS sleeved O-ring calipers with master cylinder and pads when they go on sale at VBP, 255/60R15 tires were on sale at tirerack for $380 plus $50 AMEX gift card. All in all it seemed like it would be a good solid driver for $4000, $5000 with your registration.

 

Pretty certain the L-82 was NOT an option for 1981's the only engine option that year was the L-81...unless California had those weird engine options due to emissions. good move returning the car

 

It was back registered from 1998. In CA the purchaser has to pay all those fees plus penalties. They said they may wave the penalities bringing it down to 700. Still too much. BS.

This one wasnt meant to be. I have my eyes out on another.

 

You're lucky he took it back. Nice of him to do so. I venture to bet the rough engine problems were associated with a bad vacuum hose or headlight actuators (something draining the vacuum). Those cars had a bunch of hoses and vacuum emission equipment. Lots of opportunities for vacuum leaks. If those were resolved and possibly a carb rebuild, I bet she purrs like a kitten. Still, even for $2,700 that might have been a great deal.

Mark G

 

It was a hard decision! I forgot to add the $200 towing cost to get it to my place. It was only running on 5 cylinders, so it was hard to diagnos other problems. The battery gets killed once a day. Needs new tires asap. One is unusable. Still though, if you add all this up including the missing t-tops, its still a decent deal. It was a coin toss in the end. Seeing the bottom as it was coming of the truck with all the crushed rubber, rust, branches growing out of it, kind of helped me to walk away from it.

now I have to find a vette after all the studying I did looking into this one. Now I know what to look for in these things.

 

Believe me, if you were bothered by the $900 in fees due on the car, you shouldn't even consider refurbishing it! ($$$$) You did the right thing. Keep looking.