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major 700r4 conversion problems - need help

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Old May 30, 2011 | 11:15 AM
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Default major 700r4 conversion problems - need help

I am in the process of converting my 81 over to built 700r4, thought I had everything I needed but I guess I was wrong, this takes an 82 crossmember right? Does this crossmember bolt where the old one went or do I have to make new frame holes? The local vette shop is not sure what crossmembers they have so far none of them work??????

I also bought a drive shaft from them to be shortened to 25 inches only to find out that it is to wide to fit in the yokes so that is a waste

And the linkage bracket doesn't fit below the tranny pan as the bolt spacing is different between the two trannies?????

Help on this much appreciated as I have to bum rides until it is together
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Old May 30, 2011 | 11:39 AM
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http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...00r4-swap.html

I just searched... 700r4 swap.... you get a ton of info...
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Old May 30, 2011 | 11:40 AM
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http://forums.corvetteforum.com/sear...rchid=24222201
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Old May 30, 2011 | 12:17 PM
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
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Originally Posted by 81fastvette
I am in the process of converting my 81 over to built 700r4, thought I had everything I needed but I guess I was wrong, this takes an 82 crossmember right? Does this crossmember bolt where the old one went or do I have to make new frame holes? The local vette shop is not sure what crossmembers they have so far none of them work??????

I also bought a drive shaft from them to be shortened to 25 inches only to find out that it is to wide to fit in the yokes so that is a waste

And the linkage bracket doesn't fit below the tranny pan as the bolt spacing is different between the two trannies?????

Help on this much appreciated as I have to bum rides until it is together
this is a great set up...you will like once you work all the bugs out..... we can walk you through them.....






on my 77 i used the BTO crossmember and it used the original mounting holes, these holes are nothing special just tapped holes in the frame so making them is no big deal...

i was able to have my original drive shaft shortened. and when you do this take the yoke to the driveline shop so you can have them balanced./ most people dont cut the drive shaft unitl they get measuring directions from the drivline shop.

true the bracketry is different on the pan as well as the shift detent....the shift work kit comes with both the correct shift detent and the right bracket on the bottom. i actually made my own bracket for the bottom using the original one but then realized i had one in the shift works kit




these are reverse images( by accident)


tight fit



does not fit








Last edited by bobs77vet; May 30, 2011 at 12:27 PM.
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Old May 30, 2011 | 05:05 PM
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I'm planning the same changover, from a TH400 to a 700R4. I think you can still use the original crossmember, but you will have to make a bracket to mount to the exising crossmember and provide a new location for the rear tranny mount. It will also have to have the E-brake pulley relocated (cut off and rewelded) so that there is no interference with that mechanism and the new tranny. You just need to measure the differences between your present tranny mount holes, etc. and those of the new transmission so that whoever does the work (I know of a very competent welder in my area) knows what to do. Doing so can save you a lot of money on expensive aftermarket pieces.

P.S. You also want to check out any need to relocate (widen) the position of the exhaust pipe(s) so they adequately clear the trans oil pan to limit interference and/or excessive heat.
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Old May 30, 2011 | 07:53 PM
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
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before you pay for labor of a welder price out the manufactured cross member....if its a buddy and its free then you cant beat that
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Old May 30, 2011 | 09:57 PM
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He's a nice guy, but not really a buddy...but he almost 'works for beer'!
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Old May 31, 2011 | 01:04 AM
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Thanks for the help, I hope to be back on the road soon at a much lower rpm, with a much higher cruise speed
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Old May 31, 2011 | 10:22 AM
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
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you didnt mention your exhaust set up.....if its a true daul set up you will want to add and x or h pipe to it......if you have 3.08 rear end you will notice sometimes after letting up on the gas pedal the car will lock up at 40 mph at 900-1000 rpm and it will start to lug...(imagine coming off of a clover leaf entrance ramp and slowing down to merge) adding the H or X pipe makes this go way.....adding a speedometer controlled lock up will do this also, so will down shifting to 3rd, and so will a simple on/off toggle switch that unlocks the torque converter, i have an RPM switch that controls my lockup that a friend made and i also have the toggle switch.
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