Pictures are great, progress is better, project completed..........priceless.
Thanks for posting the pictures. Excellent results. Good luck going foward.
Keep the pictures coming.......when you have time of course.

 

Excellent!... Great work.

As you go it's so nice to be working with clean parts right? When you start the assembly, it's so nice to not be dealing with the rust & grime!

 

yeah it is nice to not be dealing with so much gunk. once I finish the underbody cleaning, then most of that will be finished. obviously there are the parts here and there, but most of the junk was on the chassis.

 

I could have swore I posted the progress pics, but I may have been wrong. I have the body back together (see the stripping post).

I have the body back on the frame, and the chassis ready.
When I rebuilt the chassis, I had the differential rebuilt. The rest I did myself.

I went with a composite rear spring. I added a moog front spring and poly bushings. Stainless steal lines. I cleaned the tank and reused it, it was in great shape. I added a Borgeson Box, and rebuilt the steering and training arms/parking brakes. The calipers were rebuilt, but I am not 100% sure I am going to keep the front ones. they seem a lil loose to me in the piston area. Time will tell on that one. The u-joints are spicer, and the bearings are the ones most recommend (I forget the name since been so long and my coffee has not kicked in)

I used poor previously, but on the smaller parts I used DP90 and the chassis black with ceramic in it.

here are the pics of the chassis after I painted the various parts.







































Prior to putting on the tired. I did a real rough alignement. I took the center line od the car and string a string. then I used a plumb bob to get a couple of true verticle lines. This was of course after leveling the frame. I then connected a flat edge to the rotors and measured off the verticle line since it dropped below the frame. that got the rotors pretty parallel. I did the same meassurement for the verticle alignment, but the line was actually dropped from the ceiling. boy those pipes I used to hand parts for painting have come in handly lol. I know the alignment is not right, but it is a good start so when I cam able to take it I can.

 

Looks great Eddie...

Rogman

 

Very nice. Keep the pictures coming. It's always nice to share the progress!

 

It looks really great, you have spent a lot of time cleaning and painting. As mine doesn't look as nice as yours, I had used Por 15 on my frame and suspension pieces and recently have been fighting brake fluid leaks from the stainless lines not seating and brake calipers seals failing. The brake fluid has really destroyed the Por15 finish, I will have to go back and touch up these areas once the car is running well. Just be sure to clean up any fluid spills immediately and cover the frame and pieces with plastic where you think the fluid might run to, like just below the master cylinder and proportioning valve and trailing arms.

I would hate to see your hard work be destroyed by something as simply as brake fluid leaks. Although my build is not a frame off, it still aggravates me to see my work destroyed, knowing I now have to go back and fix this mess.


Keep up the great work, the pay day will be the day you get to go for a drive, thats a great feeling.

Riggs.

 

Great bunch of update pictures, Eddie. You *have* been humping your behind in advancing the project. I echo everyone's comments on how solid the car will be when road worthy.

All your efforts to align the chassis at this stage should provide you a sharp baseline when the car is ready for its final alignment. Guessing, it should be a piece of cake then.

Thanks for your time to post this up and we'll be watching for more.

Good Luck.

 

I decided to put a link to the other related post and will finish the build off in this thread.

Up to here this has been showing the chasis process, and the other was the stripping and re-boding of the body. Here is the link to that one.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...2-started.html

[URL="http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-general/2920190-stripping-the-72-started.html"]

I am now working on doing the body work that is needed, I am using west system where needed and 3M Automix to fill the seams. Once I get this part done I hope to have the body in real good shape that I wont need to be using a lot of filler or repair work after I shoot my epoxy primer. But so far I am pleased with the choices, eventhough that 3m stuff is much harder to sand than glass, but I think it will be worth it.

I glassed inside the body where needed also (did not get pics of that). Anywhere there were signs of a crack, I would get inside the body area, grind it down and then lay 3 layers of glass to strenghten it from behind. then I would work my way back to it from the front.

Most of the major glass work is needed in the rear right corner and the front left nose at the light area. The replacement panels had some filler in that I ground out. the spoiler also had missing glass.

I taped off the area with blue tape, glassed it, then sanded it down.




I then used the 3m to seal the seams and gaps in the rear after the repair and to fill in some small blemishes.






I then bonded the rear valance to the car. this was a choice I made since the rear light panel was not original and does not fit exactly to the valance. The right exaust hole does not line up exactly, so will need to be glassed to bring it down even.



The right rear seam was done next.




The rear still needs to be seam filled and sanded, but I want ot do all that at 1 time.

In the meantime I moved to the front.
I had to replace the front nose bar.




While that was drying I ground out the old glass in the front seams to even them out a little, and to go in deaper where needed to remove filler that was hidden.




I then taped it off and used the 3m to build it back. There was also issue with the top of the right wheel area. looked like a PO went grind happy and tore it up. I am using the same process as I would have for glassing them. taping it off with 2 layers, dished it out, and then will sand until the tape is off.





The nose had some damage.



I used the new bar as a template and made a "bonding strip" to go in after I bond the bar, and cut out the damage. this is used as a guide. will be bonded to the bar, then used as a starting place to build and shape the edge again. then 3m will be added and eventually the rivets placed back in. This area is so small I thought this was the best way to approach it. maybe an overkill, but I rather get the old junk out and redo it so I know what was done and its condition.





The actual glass and build up is in progress right now, so pics of that will be coming as well as the rest of the nose repair.

 

Two questions:

Is that a Mike Dyer Built Rear end?

Are those the half shafts I sold you?

 

Wow.. I can't believe how far you have come on this car. I remember when you were torn on rather to remove the body from the frame. I bet your glad that you did. Really nice work and a great job.

 

Yes to both those questions. he stripped the guts out, I blasted and painted it, then gave it back to him to build.

Yeah I am glad I pulled the body off. I can say that now, but ask me 2 months ago ummmmm not sure

 

You're doing a fine job on your car. But, I did notice that your brake rotors are beginning to rust. You might want to paint the hub (hat) and the outside surface of the rotor vents with some cast iron colored paint...just to keep them looking nice.

Can't wait to see your next 'installment'.

 

Very nice work. POR15 is the way to go.

 

Wow! Excellent job indeed! I have a 72 conv driver and I'm just imagining doing all that work. Very cool to see everything take shape. Keep it coming.

 

Well I have been busy.

I got the nose fixed, reglassed where needed, and cleaned it up. I test fit the bumpers, hood etc getting ready to shoot a sealer coat.

The replacement inner fender I used did not fit exactly right. It sat too far forward and a bit low. This caused the hood hinge to be in the wrong spot and too low. So I cut the hinge and shifted it backward on a longer base piece. I then made 2 shims to bring it up to the correct height. This was a pain in the butt, but was necessary.

I am also fitting the wiper door and grill. My hood nose is a little low, but the side are at the right height.

My next steps are to fix the gap on the hood, and the alignement of the tip of the hood. May have to close the hood gap on the front, but I am not sure yet, will decide once I get the measurements.

Here are some more pics.

 

Nice! Is that a new tank or did you paint it? If so, what paint did you use?

Thanks,
Danny

 

I cleaned the rust off then neautralized any that may have been left, used DP90 then a Silver I had. I used the same silver on the rear differential.

 

Great update, enjoyable read.

You have done a excellent job

Craig

 

excellent job