Garage Fumes
#21
Team Owner
Lance,
Thanks for the compliment. Much appreciated! When I bought the car I thought they were Centerline Drag wheels; much loved by the dragstrip crowd in the 1970s. But after buying I dug into a few mechanical things as I am want to do when buying old Corvettes. Safety matters as you can imagine (just checking sometimes). As it turns out those are are Enkei wheels - Made in Japan. I have no idea how old they are. They had some curb rash that I had repaired and aside from those cosmetics they have been flawless in terms of balance.
I had visions of replacing them but they kind of grew on me: I rather like them.
Here is that wheel BEFORE.
Thanks for the compliment. Much appreciated! When I bought the car I thought they were Centerline Drag wheels; much loved by the dragstrip crowd in the 1970s. But after buying I dug into a few mechanical things as I am want to do when buying old Corvettes. Safety matters as you can imagine (just checking sometimes). As it turns out those are are Enkei wheels - Made in Japan. I have no idea how old they are. They had some curb rash that I had repaired and aside from those cosmetics they have been flawless in terms of balance.
I had visions of replacing them but they kind of grew on me: I rather like them.
Here is that wheel BEFORE.
Last edited by Paul L; 07-17-2011 at 05:24 PM.
#23
Team Owner
Remove the gas cap and the fill tube goes directly down to the tank just a few inches lower. Yes, you can look right into the tank.
And, no...with the gas lid up but the cap still on, there should be no gas smell. If a strong smell of fuel is present there, the gasket on your gas cap is missing or disintegrated. There should also be a rubber 'boot' that fits tightly around the tank filler tube and extends out beyond the opening for the gas lid. You should not be able to see the top of the tank from around the filler tube/cap.
And, no...with the gas lid up but the cap still on, there should be no gas smell. If a strong smell of fuel is present there, the gasket on your gas cap is missing or disintegrated. There should also be a rubber 'boot' that fits tightly around the tank filler tube and extends out beyond the opening for the gas lid. You should not be able to see the top of the tank from around the filler tube/cap.
#24
Instructor
Member Since: Oct 2007
Location: Vero Beach Florida
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Interesting converation...
Is the smell exaust, oil, gas, coolant or freon? They all have very specific aromas - and a keen nose can zero in on the problem!
Is the smell exaust, oil, gas, coolant or freon? They all have very specific aromas - and a keen nose can zero in on the problem!
#25
Safety Car
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Your car might be running very rich and what your smelling is unburned hydrocarbons which does create quite a stink.
I'm not sure about the gas cap gas smell....if in 69 the system was sealed (what's printed on the gas cap?) then no you should not be smelling gas.....if it was a vented system then you might very well smell gas.
#26
Le Mans Master
Haven't put in a wall exhaust fan, but you're wanting one with a louver on it. A roof attic style vent fan would probably be easiest. Also, consider the gas you're using. Was running BP brand gas in my snow blower during the winter that had some kind of additive in it. Was continually gassing out with the unit just sitting there, and nearly stunk me out of the place. Yes, into the house too.
#27
I was under the impression the OP was talking about garage fumes other than the car, like solvents or aerosols, etc. If so, the fan idea from Terry82 looks pretty slick, it's something I've been looking into.
#28
Drifting
Thread Starter
Remove the gas cap and the fill tube goes directly down to the tank just a few inches lower. Yes, you can look right into the tank.
And, no...with the gas lid up but the cap still on, there should be no gas smell. If a strong smell of fuel is present there, the gasket on your gas cap is missing or disintegrated. There should also be a rubber 'boot' that fits tightly around the tank filler tube and extends out beyond the opening for the gas lid. You should not be able to see the top of the tank from around the filler tube/cap.
And, no...with the gas lid up but the cap still on, there should be no gas smell. If a strong smell of fuel is present there, the gasket on your gas cap is missing or disintegrated. There should also be a rubber 'boot' that fits tightly around the tank filler tube and extends out beyond the opening for the gas lid. You should not be able to see the top of the tank from around the filler tube/cap.
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...1968-1974.html
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...1963-1996.html
#29
Drifting
Thread Starter
Haven't put in a wall exhaust fan, but you're wanting one with a louver on it. A roof attic style vent fan would probably be easiest. Also, consider the gas you're using. Was running BP brand gas in my snow blower during the winter that had some kind of additive in it. Was continually gassing out with the unit just sitting there, and nearly stunk me out of the place. Yes, into the house too.
#30
Drifting
Thread Starter
It is not exhaust and is kind of like the smell of gas/old car I think. It is real hot down here in South Fla during July so after running the car and pulling in the garage with no ventilation any smell gets amplified. Going to take a look at some of the things that previous posters said to look at. Thanks.
#31
Drifting
Lat Summer the smell got so bad that my wife called the fire dept. to investigate. They took my gas cans and put them outside but couldn't find the problem. Later I found that the rubber hoses on top of the gas tank had deteriorated and I guess fumes were escaping from the gas tank thru there. They were in pretty bad shape after 30 plus years.
#32
Drifting
Thread Starter
Lat Summer the smell got so bad that my wife called the fire dept. to investigate. They took my gas cans and put them outside but couldn't find the problem. Later I found that the rubber hoses on top of the gas tank had deteriorated and I guess fumes were escaping from the gas tank thru there. They were in pretty bad shape after 30 plus years.
#33
Safety Car
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
My gas cap and rubber filler neck around it....your cap would look different (might see the word Vented instead of Sealed and no red warning label) but otherwise it should look the same.
#34
Drifting
Thread Starter
I just realized that I had pics on my phone that I took a few days ago. Look especially at the pic with the gas cap removed - just a big metal hole with no rubber surrounding it or nothing to put the gas nozzle into. Is this correct?
#35
Team Owner
That is what you should see...the rubber 'boot' below, and around, the filler neck. If you have no filler tube 'seal' and you smell raw fuel, you have leakage somewhere around the fuel tank. The possible sources were listed above. Please check them out for your (and your car's) safety.
Jerry... I see you still have your original cap, too.
Jerry... I see you still have your original cap, too.
#36
Drifting
Thread Starter
That is what you should see...the rubber 'boot' below, and around, the filler neck. If you have no filler tube 'seal' and you smell raw fuel, you have leakage somewhere around the fuel tank. The possible sources were listed above. Please check them out for your (and your car's) safety.
#37
Drifting
I recently replaced the fuel tank in my '69, so perhaps my experience and what I learned can help you. The thread describing it (with pictures) is here: Link
I smelled gasoline in the car when I filled the tank over ½ full, so I thought the hoses from the tank to the hard fuel lines were rotted. Turns out when I got the tank out, the hoses were in good shape, but the tank was leaking at the seam. By replacing the tank, lines, and cap, the fuel smell is no longe a problem.
The fuel neck the cap screws onto is held the tank by about 9 little screws with o-rings under the heads, and a cork gasket between the tank and the neck. After ~40+ years all those could be needing replacement too. New o-ring screws and the cork gasket came with the tank. Dropping the tank is not really hard, just kind of a PITA; and you pretty much have to to get access to the hoses. And you get chance to see your car's build sheet - if it's still there.
These old, pre-emission cars will give off some hydrocarbon odors, but they shouldn't be excessive to the point the odors enter the house from an attached garage.
I hope this helps.....
Edit: Add sig.
I smelled gasoline in the car when I filled the tank over ½ full, so I thought the hoses from the tank to the hard fuel lines were rotted. Turns out when I got the tank out, the hoses were in good shape, but the tank was leaking at the seam. By replacing the tank, lines, and cap, the fuel smell is no longe a problem.
The fuel neck the cap screws onto is held the tank by about 9 little screws with o-rings under the heads, and a cork gasket between the tank and the neck. After ~40+ years all those could be needing replacement too. New o-ring screws and the cork gasket came with the tank. Dropping the tank is not really hard, just kind of a PITA; and you pretty much have to to get access to the hoses. And you get chance to see your car's build sheet - if it's still there.
These old, pre-emission cars will give off some hydrocarbon odors, but they shouldn't be excessive to the point the odors enter the house from an attached garage.
I hope this helps.....
Edit: Add sig.
#38
Melting Slicks
After you make sure fumes cannot enter the house, then tackle the smells the car is producing.
I had a garage smell issue with my '73 after I bought it. I helped the problem a lot with a good engine tune and carb adjustment. I also helped it by replacing a leaking check valve on the vapor canister line at the gas tank. But, it turned out another culprit was that the previous owner had removed the vapor canister. After installing a new one the smell was largely eliminated.
DC
#39
Drifting
Thread Starter
If you are getting garage fumes into the house, that is a major health hazard. Check everything between the house and garage and seal all places where your house air conditioning system could possibly pull air from the garage (electrical and plumbing penetrations, holes in the wall, etc). If the indoor air conditioning unit is in a garage closet, check it to make sure it is not pulling air from the garage directly into the unit or duct work. Seal it as needed with aluminum foil tape (not duct tape, that stuff doesn't actually work on ducts).
After you make sure fumes cannot enter the house, then tackle the smells the car is producing.
I had a garage smell issue with my '73 after I bought it. I helped the problem a lot with a good engine tune and carb adjustment. I also helped it by replacing a leaking check valve on the vapor canister line at the gas tank. But, it turned out another culprit was that the previous owner had removed the vapor canister. After installing a new one the smell was largely eliminated.
DC
After you make sure fumes cannot enter the house, then tackle the smells the car is producing.
I had a garage smell issue with my '73 after I bought it. I helped the problem a lot with a good engine tune and carb adjustment. I also helped it by replacing a leaking check valve on the vapor canister line at the gas tank. But, it turned out another culprit was that the previous owner had removed the vapor canister. After installing a new one the smell was largely eliminated.
DC
#40
Drifting
Thread Starter
I recently replaced the fuel tank in my '69, so perhaps my experience and what I learned can help you. The thread describing it (with pictures) is here: Link
I smelled gasoline in the car when I filled the tank over ½ full, so I thought the hoses from the tank to the hard fuel lines were rotted. Turns out when I got the tank out, the hoses were in good shape, but the tank was leaking at the seam. By replacing the tank, lines, and cap, the fuel smell is no longe a problem.
The fuel neck the cap screws onto is held the tank by about 9 little screws with o-rings under the heads, and a cork gasket between the tank and the neck. After ~40+ years all those could be needing replacement too. New o-ring screws and the cork gasket came with the tank. Dropping the tank is not really hard, just kind of a PITA; and you pretty much have to to get access to the hoses. And you get chance to see your car's build sheet - if it's still there.
These old, pre-emission cars will give off some hydrocarbon odors, but they shouldn't be excessive to the point the odors enter the house from an attached garage.
I hope this helps.....
Edit: Add sig.
I smelled gasoline in the car when I filled the tank over ½ full, so I thought the hoses from the tank to the hard fuel lines were rotted. Turns out when I got the tank out, the hoses were in good shape, but the tank was leaking at the seam. By replacing the tank, lines, and cap, the fuel smell is no longe a problem.
The fuel neck the cap screws onto is held the tank by about 9 little screws with o-rings under the heads, and a cork gasket between the tank and the neck. After ~40+ years all those could be needing replacement too. New o-ring screws and the cork gasket came with the tank. Dropping the tank is not really hard, just kind of a PITA; and you pretty much have to to get access to the hoses. And you get chance to see your car's build sheet - if it's still there.
These old, pre-emission cars will give off some hydrocarbon odors, but they shouldn't be excessive to the point the odors enter the house from an attached garage.
I hope this helps.....
Edit: Add sig.