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I have a 77, the last time I removed one of the exhaust manifolds, I believe they had squarish ports. I am unsure. I am thinking of getting some shorty headers. I see oval/rectangle/square/ and o shaped. On the 350's in the 77. What is the correct shape? Do not feel like removing an exhaust manifold just to check. Thanks....
Why shorties? I think long tube headers have better performance figures.
This past Oct, I replaced the original exhaust with true duals straight back no cats. If I get shorty's, they will bolt right up. Otherwise I need to cut/fabricate. And also have to deal with ground clearence.
If you look through most of these companies that sell headers and other high performance accessories(Summit, Jegs, etc), you'll see where they make headers for our C3's(68-82). They are a direct fit and the tubes are bent the correct way to clear certain parts in the engine bay. I started with a set of Dynomax headers. Those were a direct fit. Then I went with a set of Hooker Super Comp's which were a direct fit as well. And about 6 months ago, stepped up to a set of Hooker Super Comp's with the side pipes which were a direct fit as well. I think as long as you order for a 68-82, you'll find theres nothing to cut or fabricate. Ground clearance is not an issue either unless you've got your C3 really slammed to the ground. I actually use to have exhaust cut outs the dumped down and still had no clearance issues...
Originally Posted by daanbc
This past Oct, I replaced the original exhaust with true duals straight back no cats. If I get shorty's, they will bolt right up. Otherwise I need to cut/fabricate. And also have to deal with ground clearence.
This past Oct, I replaced the original exhaust with true duals straight back no cats. If I get shorty's, they will bolt right up. Otherwise I need to cut/fabricate. And also have to deal with ground clearence.
Most shorties create plug and plug wire clearance problems, worth spending more for the good ones.
This past Oct, I replaced the original exhaust with true duals straight back no cats. If I get shorty's, they will bolt right up. Otherwise I need to cut/fabricate. And also have to deal with ground clearence.
The generic, "block-hugger" headers will not bolt right up to a stock exhaust location. They come down about even with the oil pan rail. I think McJacks makes a header that bolts up to the stock exhaust.
My headers I have on my car come down to about under the front of the footwells and then connect into my exhaust pipes. Would these be considered "long tube" headers?
I say go to summit or jegs and order you a set of Hooker Super Comp's. No modifying needed, they are long tubes and have no fitment issues whatsoever. They come in black, chrome or ceramic and look good as well. They will work with factory heads and the best thing about them is later on, if you go to an aftermarket head(as I did) with larger intake/exhaust ports, they will still work as they have the largest tube diameter of any header on the market. Black are like $350/pair and ceramic I think is around $600/pair.
Last edited by austinseanchris; Aug 7, 2011 at 11:21 AM.
I say go to summit or jegs and order you a set of Hooker Super Comp's. No modifying needed, they are long tubes and have no fitment issues whatsoever. They come in black, chrome or ceramic and look good as well. They will work with factory heads and the best thing about them is later on, if you go to an aftermarket head(as I did) with larger intake/exhaust ports, they will still work as they have the largest tube diameter of any header on the market. Black are like $350/pair and ceramic I think is around $600/pair.
How will I be able to attach them to my current pipes? I do not have a welder. That's why Im looking at shorty's. So they bolt up to my exhaust flange on the pipes.
My headers I have on my car come down to about under the front of the footwells and then connect into my exhaust pipes. Would these be considered "long tube" headers?
Shorty headers that will "just bolt right up" to your existing exhaust system are expensive, and don't flow very well. For $130.00 you can have full length headers, just install the headers and reducers, saw the exhaust pipes of in the appropriate spots, and use a short length of exhaust pipe that has the same I.D. as the O.D. of the reducer and exhaust system with a couple of clamps. Maybe someday you can have a muffler shop weld them together.