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I may be looking at what's "supposed" to be a number matching 70 this weekend. Personally I don't care about numbers much but the overall car and deal look attractive so I might as well go verify the sellers #s claim.
...but have never looked at the transmission, carb, alternator, etc.
Can someone point me in the right direction as to where to look for the numbers on parts other than the block? Front/back/left/right/etc. (links or pictures would be cool too)
Also, I was told by the seller that you are unable to see the last few digits on the block since it was painted....are there any quick and clever ways to make those numbers appear more? Rub a wire sponge over it? Rub it with sand paper? Pour some acid over it
To clean the block pad, use some lacquer thinner. It will take some rubbing but the paint will come off. Never use any abrasives on a pad as it will be destroyed. I verified all of my component numbers during the build but don't remember exactly where most of them are - just do a google search and you should find the information. I do remember that the trans has the VIN stamped vertically (perpendicular to the ground) on the main casing on the passenger side (I think). I would definitely get that paint off of the pad. Good luck
Also, the only parts that have the VIN stamped in them are the block and trans. The block and trans also have part numbers on them with casting dates. Numbers matching means that the VIN on these matches the car VIN tag, the part numbers are correct for the car, and casting dates are within a few months prior to the car build date.
The remaining parts (mostly) have part numbers and casting dates. Numbers matching for these parts means that the part numbers are correct and that the casting dates are within a few months of the build date of the car.
There are alot of old posts on this topic and I'm sure that others will chime in. I hope that this helps. It sounds very complicated but its really simple if you have the right resources - pick up a copy of "chevy by the numbers."
Because if the numbers claim does not check out, I would then try to knock down the price some more based on these findings
Good strategy. I would also post pics and information on this site for opinions on the price. You get lots of varying opinions and would be a very informed buyer at that point. This is fun stuff
This also shows you location of the part numbers. Its a very good resource.
Thanks for the link. Not quite sure if the book would get to me in time. I'm taking a 4hr drive to see this car and do not plan on making the drive again....I either pick it up or not. I'll do more searching on the net for resources.
I just noticed that your looking at a 70 so the book wont help anyway. Are you looking at a 350 car? If so, I wouldn't worry much about the originality of anything except the block, trans and rear. The remaining parts are plentiful and easy to find so wouldn't reduce value much IMO.
I just noticed that your looking at a 70 so the book wont help anyway. Are you looking at a 350 car? If so, I wouldn't worry much about the originality of anything except the block, trans and rear. The remaining parts are plentiful and easy to find so wouldn't reduce value much IMO.
Yes, its a 350 car. I was planning to concentrate on the block and trans as well....but might as well see if I can find the other part numbers as well (just to knock the price even lower)
Got a friend who knows what he/she would be looking at? If so, take them with you.
Good luck.
Knowing where to look for numbers is one thing, knowing how to decipher them is another.....if you can't have someone go with you get yourself an NCRS Judging Guide for your year....it explains where the numbers are and what they mean. www.ncrs.org
Otherwise just offer the owner what your prepared to pay for the car.
if the vin derivitive on the tranny and block do not match the title and VIN tag, and the owner claims they do, then you either have a seller that is pretty ignorant, or he is evil. just feel him out with a good personal interview.
missing number under the paint? we have heard that one before... if he is truly trying to sell the car then a potential buyer would have asked him to clean it off and verify for them.. surprised that has not happened yet and makes my spider sense tingle. it would not be unreasonable to ask him to clean the pad off and send you a photo prior to your long trip.
all in all, it is just part of the numbers game.
condition and rust are more important here and supercede the numbers ( since you don't care ). especially on a small block. Since you really are not a numbers person, then all you really need to do is make sure that the car is priced according to its claims.
Finding the numbers and figuring out what they mean is not that difficult guys...I am kind of new to these cars but not incompetent
As long as I know where to look and have a write up of how to decipher them, its a piece of cake
I guess someone more experienced would be helpful with other things....parts that do not have any identification on them... telling a difference between an original seat rail vs a replacement from another year.... and such
Some parts are really hard to get numbers off of with them bolted to the car - exhaust manifolds, heads, and distributor come to mind. For the heads, you need to take off the valve covers. Take a little mirror with you and put it on a stick with chewing gum to see hard places Seriously, a mirror can help in hard to reach places. Pressure to make a decision on the spot like this is the worst way to buy a car. Unless there are loads of people beating down his door, go home and think about a reasonable offer. That will give you time to digest the numbers. Worst case is you lose $100 worth of gas and an afternoon. My 0.02 Keep us in the loop on your journey.
Yea....I don't plan on going crazy and checking the header numbers.... I'll just go for the block, tranny, maybe rear and carb....the stuff easy to get to.
The overall deal looks good to me whether number matching or not (speaking from what Ive seen over the past few months)... 350 4 speed, paint a couple years old-looks great, interior in great shape, frame on restoration (frame detailed and painted), engine bay detailed and painted. Of course a description and pictures can only tell so much, so I'll definitelly see what it looks like in person. Asking 16k and claiming numbers matching. Seller states that he can't go much lower than asking price...but we'll see. The only things mentioned as non-working or non-original are the wheels, the switch to close the wiper doors needs to be replaced and the carb needs some tuning (it idles rough at low speeds/stops)
From what I've seen....for 16k there are 350 cars that look waaaaay worse than this one. Then again, I missed out on having a 69 BB for $17,700 and another for $18.
I'll try to post some pics of the car soon.
I guess I'll see in a few days as anything can happen. I'll let you guys know how I make out.
if the vin derivitive on the tranny and block do not match the title and VIN tag, and the owner claims they do, then you either have a seller that is pretty ignorant, or he is evil. just feel him out with a good personal interview.
If the seller seems to be deceptive I'd pass. No telling what else he's hiding.
Originally Posted by joewill
condition and rust are more important here and supercede the numbers ( since you don't care ). especially on a small block. Since you really are not a numbers person, then all you really need to do is make sure that the car is priced according to its claims.
I'd say condition and rust should be #1 concerns followed by numbers if that's an important attribute to the buyer. Six million dollar question I've asked from time to time but rarely get an answer to is should it not be matching numbers, how much would you expect the price to be lowered? Whats the delta? How do we estimate a fair deduction?
Also, the only parts that have the VIN stamped in them are the block and trans. The block and trans also have part numbers on them with casting dates. Numbers matching means that the VIN on these matches the car VIN tag, the part numbers are correct for the car, and casting dates are within a few months prior to the car build date.
The remaining parts (mostly) have part numbers and casting dates. Numbers matching for these parts means that the part numbers are correct and that the casting dates are within a few months of the build date of the car.
There are alot of old posts on this topic and I'm sure that others will chime in. I hope that this helps. It sounds very complicated but its really simple if you have the right resources - pick up a copy of "chevy by the numbers."
only the motor and trans can be verified as being from that exact car (unless the VIN tag was changed also which is a federal offense). all the other on a "numbers matching" car are date correct parts based on the car's build date.