Opinions please!!!!
#1
Opinions please!!!!
Hey guys, I'm looking at a 1982 CE vette and wanted to know if it's anything to look for as far as problemmatic item for this year, also does anyone know about the cross injection used this year? Is it good, fair or just plain stay away? Thanks everyone in advanced!!!
#2
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '06
I have an 82 and like it. The CFI has it's issues, but is simple. The problems are mainly vacuum leaks and worn throttle bodies.
The computer is very basic and I have heard the later years work better.
The fuel pump is weak, and the 85 pump works better.
The overdrive transmission is great, but weak as well. It can't take much abuse. If you rebuild it, go with stronger parts, or even a later year transmission. I went with an 88 truck transmisison when I had mine rebuilt.
Take a look at the Crossfire Injection Vault for more CFI information.
The computer is very basic and I have heard the later years work better.
The fuel pump is weak, and the 85 pump works better.
The overdrive transmission is great, but weak as well. It can't take much abuse. If you rebuild it, go with stronger parts, or even a later year transmission. I went with an 88 truck transmisison when I had mine rebuilt.
Take a look at the Crossfire Injection Vault for more CFI information.
Last edited by Curby; 09-15-2011 at 09:10 AM.
#3
Race Director
The biggest problem with the Cross-Fire is probably finding parts for it. Not much is available new for it anymore. You'll have people that will tell you to stay away from it, but in reality, it's not a bad set up.
82's suffer from the same problems that all 68-82's suffer from. Rust in a A-pillars, frame and floors, leaking power, power steering components and brake calipers, trailing arm bearings, etc. A search of the Forum will turn up plenty of posts about what to check when buying a 68-82.
Beyond all that, the biggest problem with 82 Collector Edition's relate to the rear hatch. Broken or missing hatch parts are hard to find and expensive. The only pieces available for it are the weatherstrip and the lift shocks. If the release cable is broken, they are almost non-existent, and the hinges and glass hatch aren't much easier to find.
Don't let any of this scare you though. They are attractive, desirable and fun cars to own and drive.
82's suffer from the same problems that all 68-82's suffer from. Rust in a A-pillars, frame and floors, leaking power, power steering components and brake calipers, trailing arm bearings, etc. A search of the Forum will turn up plenty of posts about what to check when buying a 68-82.
Beyond all that, the biggest problem with 82 Collector Edition's relate to the rear hatch. Broken or missing hatch parts are hard to find and expensive. The only pieces available for it are the weatherstrip and the lift shocks. If the release cable is broken, they are almost non-existent, and the hinges and glass hatch aren't much easier to find.
Don't let any of this scare you though. They are attractive, desirable and fun cars to own and drive.
#4
Safety Car
depends if you have 'originality' requirements. If not then it is just the basics that should make the sale.
Paint needs to be great, a car needing paint or bodywork has a major negative at the start.
Look for condition, condition, and then condition. make sure everything works. whatever has been replaced with quality parts is a plus.
It needs to start ( both cold and hot ), stop, steer, shift, accelerate, all very well.
most evil in a car can be found on the underside. Look for exhaust, bearing play, suspension bushings, leaks, worn out hoses and belts, tires, spare tire, sign of body repair. Body repair is ok as long as it is done well.
above all, look for rust.
if you require originality, buy the books and start studying and get into the numbers.
know your emissions laws in your state and confirm the car will pass.
if you really are a new buyer, then understand that most cars are overpriced, do your homework and study what similar cars sell for. Spend a couple extra grand for a car you don't have to spend money on getting it on the road.
Paint needs to be great, a car needing paint or bodywork has a major negative at the start.
Look for condition, condition, and then condition. make sure everything works. whatever has been replaced with quality parts is a plus.
It needs to start ( both cold and hot ), stop, steer, shift, accelerate, all very well.
most evil in a car can be found on the underside. Look for exhaust, bearing play, suspension bushings, leaks, worn out hoses and belts, tires, spare tire, sign of body repair. Body repair is ok as long as it is done well.
above all, look for rust.
if you require originality, buy the books and start studying and get into the numbers.
know your emissions laws in your state and confirm the car will pass.
if you really are a new buyer, then understand that most cars are overpriced, do your homework and study what similar cars sell for. Spend a couple extra grand for a car you don't have to spend money on getting it on the road.
#5
Here is what I'm looking at, how do you guys think by looks and price is??? Thanks!!!
http://cars-on-line.com/48782.html
If link doesnt work just copy and paste it in your browser address.
http://cars-on-line.com/48782.html
If link doesnt work just copy and paste it in your browser address.
#7
Team Owner
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Google 82 Crossfire Injection.
#8
Safety Car
a very top notch 82 could go for that, just confirm that it is really top notch.. it is always a question, can you find a better one cheaper within a reasonable time frame and factor in the acquisition costs?
#10
Safety Car
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
The biggest problem with the Cross-Fire is probably finding parts for it. Not much is available new for it anymore. You'll have people that will tell you to stay away from it, but in reality, it's not a bad set up.
82's suffer from the same problems that all 68-82's suffer from. Rust in a A-pillars, frame and floors, leaking power, power steering components and brake calipers, trailing arm bearings, etc. A search of the Forum will turn up plenty of posts about what to check when buying a 68-82.
Beyond all that, the biggest problem with 82 Collector Edition's relate to the rear hatch. Broken or missing hatch parts are hard to find and expensive. The only pieces available for it are the weatherstrip and the lift shocks. If the release cable is broken, they are almost non-existent, and the hinges and glass hatch aren't much easier to find.
Don't let any of this scare you though. They are attractive, desirable and fun cars to own and drive.
82's suffer from the same problems that all 68-82's suffer from. Rust in a A-pillars, frame and floors, leaking power, power steering components and brake calipers, trailing arm bearings, etc. A search of the Forum will turn up plenty of posts about what to check when buying a 68-82.
Beyond all that, the biggest problem with 82 Collector Edition's relate to the rear hatch. Broken or missing hatch parts are hard to find and expensive. The only pieces available for it are the weatherstrip and the lift shocks. If the release cable is broken, they are almost non-existent, and the hinges and glass hatch aren't much easier to find.
Don't let any of this scare you though. They are attractive, desirable and fun cars to own and drive.
I owned one for about 5 years and enjoyed it very much. The only other thing I would add is to check the condition of the decals (over 30 of them) as they are expensive to replace.
#11
It days it's a trophy show car. If that means he got a trophy at the local liquor store cruise-in that's not so hot. If he got it at a real show - a show calibre 82 Vette at under $15,000? ****** her up. It's worth three grand more than that. If it really is show-room condition that is...
#12
I should have said - as a show car it is worth AT LEAST three grand more than that. It's worth fifteen grand even if it's a notch or two below that. As long as the car is rock-solid it's worth that.
#13
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2022 Corvette of the Year Finalist -- Modified
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I had an 82CE for seven years. I bought it in 85 with 2700 miles. It was my DD until 92 when I sold it with 70K miles. I never had an issue with the CFI. Back then I could get replacement parts fairly reasonable. Now all of the major Corvette parts retailers have a CE mark up over the standard 82 parts because of the uniqueness. The interior parts are very expensive. Check the decal on the hood and the side decals that surround the fender louvres. Those areas are known for having issues. Above all make sure the sixth digit of the VIN is a zero.
#14
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Hi,
Someone has done some work on this one. It looks to be in good shape. I live in Maryland as well. I have an 82 and went through this about 6 months ago. I would be happy to help look at it if it too is in MD. The nose looks good. The hatch is obvious, except for the cable. Th interior has been re-done as evidenced by the fire extinguisher. You won't add that touch unless you are really into the car. How's the underneath? Dripping oil anywhere? Again, I would be happy to help if needed.
Take care,
Rick
Someone has done some work on this one. It looks to be in good shape. I live in Maryland as well. I have an 82 and went through this about 6 months ago. I would be happy to help look at it if it too is in MD. The nose looks good. The hatch is obvious, except for the cable. Th interior has been re-done as evidenced by the fire extinguisher. You won't add that touch unless you are really into the car. How's the underneath? Dripping oil anywhere? Again, I would be happy to help if needed.
Take care,
Rick
#15
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I have to agree with rdroe that the interior has had some restoration done. The rear cargo door frame has been replaced. The frame should be the same colour as the halo trim. It looks black in the picture which is how they come from the aftermarket unless you order it already painted/dyed. Check the steering wheel to see if it's "squishy". The heat gets to these and they get pretty sad looking.
#16
Burning Brakes
13000 in drive train work!! Not sure about that. I would be expecting some sort of monster build for that sort of money. The trans and rear would be 2k at the most at a shop I would think. Where is the other 11k dollars? Just saying, under the hood does not look to justify that cost. Also with so few miles, why so much work? Be careful on those claims. Who did the work and why?
Last edited by dboz; 09-15-2011 at 04:18 PM.