Hello all,

OK, I will do my best not to get long-winded here - this may be a challenge given the question I have. This is a VERY general question I know, but please bear with me, as I am in the EARLY stages of making this decision.

First off, I am considering purchasing my first Corvette. There have been 3 in my family over the years ('68 427, '72 454, '77 350) so I have grown up around them and always loved them. While I do love all of the different styles, the C3 is my favorite. My preference would be a 68 - 72, but I fully understand that is not likely with a low budget starter car. I have restored three 440 Challengers which were 100% done by myself, so while I may not be the best of the best at wrenching, I'm very comfortable with it and not afraid to do it myself when it comes to repairs and the like.

I am looking for suggestions on what to look for - meaning problem areas that may be expensive to replace / restore, things to avoid, just general "help me get started with this process" info. Where would I run into the biggest "oh no!" when it comes to repair / replace costs? Drivetrain? Interior? Body issues? etc.

If I decide to make this my next project, I will be keeping the initial purchase budget low, so I don't end up buried before I start. I thinking hopefully a project car in the 6 - 8k range. Yes, I am aware that is VERY low, and you get what you pay for, but as I mentioned before I'm OK with working on it, and making it something to be proud of.

Thank you in advance for any advice!

Adam

p.s. I am in Phoenix, AZ so any advice on reputable places to look for a car, people to talk to etc would be appreciated as well.

 

Forgot to tell you what I was wanting

Coupe
Small block (don't expect a BB with the $$ range I'm looking at)
Something that is mostly / all complete and not wrecked.
Can be used as a daily driver. I want to enjoy it, not just polish it and look at it in my garage.
Air Conditioning - This is a MUST have. 115 here in the summer

 

Hello Adam
Rust is your biggest enemy on the frame and birdcage If you buy a car with an excessive amount of it your budget is cooked. Others will chime in here do a search here as well. Look for a complete car when its in pieces and boxes its hard to tell what you got and is it correct for your car. Does it make a difference if its a numbers matching or not? When I got my car (71) it had a 74 interior, gauges, shift plate, seats, console and drivers lower dash (a/c car) all incorrect for my year. I had to replace it all. Learn what is correct for the car you are buying.
Those are my first thoughts.
Scott

 

Hello Scott,

Thank you for your advice! I'm hoping to find a car that spent most of it's life here in AZ so I don't fight the rust issue. I had way to much of that growing up in South Dakota. I'm not concerned with matching numbers and that sort of thing. This will be a car that I can enjoy and drive. While I'm against "hacking" something up, and not to concerned with originality as long as it's not pieced together and just "wrong"

 

Hi Adam,
I'd have ask some of the same questions that Scott did.
In addition, I guess you need to decide if you're interested in having an engine/transmission that was typical for that era, (even though it might now be modified), or might the car have a more modern engine/transmission?
Making that decision perhaps narrows down the cars you'll consider seriously.
The 68-72 sb cars are/can be pretty terrific!
Regards,
Alan

 

Hello Alan,

That is a very good question, and one I had not thought about. Since I want this to be a daily driver, a more modern engine / transmission would have some advantages (milage, driveability, etc), but may also bring some unwanted issues of computer / electrical problems and that sort? Maybe I'm off base with my thinking?

Due to the fact I am not up to speed on swaps of that sort in a Corvette, I think I would be smart to go with a more period correct drivetrain? Hmmmm, you really got my brain going on that one. Excellent! Thank you!

Adam

 

Hey Adam,
First let me say good luck. Restoring a corvette is a lot of fun. You've gotten some great advice so far. I will just give you my story on the 72 convertible I bought just over a year ago. Hope it will help you. First I did as you want to and that was buy at a low cost. I checked the car for rust and was very pleased with frame and birdcage and rear trailing arms. My complete interior needed reworked as NOTHING was salvageable. Next make sure someone that knows fiberglass takes a look at the body. Once we started stripping mine we found so many issues that needed addressed. Paint can cover a lot! Im no body man or painter so I had to pay someone to do it for me. We had over 250 hours in repairing and prepping the body. As for mechanical I just couldnt find a point of where to stop once I started, so I ended up with new 383 stroker and 2004r trans. I guess want I am trying to say is I ended up with to much invested and I would have been much better off buying something already completed. Now dont misunderstand, I am enjoying doing this but I invested way to much that I will never get back.
Either way you go you will find that either buying a completed vette or redoing a vette you will spend money. Probably more then you thought you would!
Enjoy the experience, keep us posted on what you do. Oh, and one last thing, I think a 72 is the year to have but then I may be bias!
Good Luck
Rodney

 

Given the prices I'm seeing on the 68 - 72's, I'm wondering if I should consider a later 70's model? I know they have some issues with the bumbers warping (my brother's '77 did). Are there any other major issues with say a 74 - 80(ish)?

I absolutely love the chrome bumpers and the "boat-tail" look of the '68 - '72's, but that might not be realistic given my initial purchase price goal. Thoughts on that?

Thank you again for your advice guys - very much appreciated.

Adam

 

Hello Rodney,

I completely understand what you're saying - scary at times isn't it! It's not really any different with any car project - one thing leads to another and whammo! You're buried in it. Also have to say I'm a little jealous of your '72 - Congrates on that!

I'm certainly no pro bodyman, but I've had some experiece at it and actually painted my last project car myself in my garage (my neighbors were NOT impressed ). You are right though, fiberglass is a whole different beast and can be a real challenge. Certainly something to keep in mind when I'm looking!

I am open to the idea of buying something which is somewhat redone already and needing to be finished and / or detailed. Maybe this will be a smarter way to go to end up with a decent driver? This project is for ME, and not something I plan to sell off after finishing it. The really surprising part is, I VERY casually mentioned to my wife that "I'd like to have a Corvette" - and all she said was "Hmmm - that would be pretty cool!" Yes, I am a really lucky man.

Thank you for your advice!
Adam

 

I've got a 78 and I love it. And you can get a pretty nice one for 8-10 k. The 78 was back up to reasonable in HP - the L48 was only about 15 HP less than a 71, and the L82 had as much power as the pre-unleaded base models. And they handle beautifully.

Drive a few different ones and see what you like the look and feel of though. The biggest mistake you can make is buying one you don't really want. You'll never truly be happy with it unless you get what you really want.

 

You could probably find a decent 73-77 for $6k-$8k.

One question I have is...do you want to be able to drive it when you buy it? If you just want an "all there" car that can't be driven, you can definitely find a 68-72 in your budget.

Hell this car is in Vegas http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3s-...non-stock.html

And he wants 5k for it...and it doesn't seem to be in too bad of shape.

But...if you really want an 68-72...then get that and don't be swayed by some of the other deals out there...

 

I live in sunny and hot South Fla and needed AC as well. I put vintage air in the car and it works real good. If you find a car you like w/o AC, look into the vintage AC. Costs around $1200 for the kit and around $800-$1000 for installation or if you do it yourself around 8-12 hours. Best of luck in your search.

 

Vintage air can be in most cases less money than getting the original working and will work better.

 

Hello Dose,

To answer your question, yes I would like / need to drive it when I got it. An ongoing project would be fine (and expected). I have to say, with the exception of the dashboard looks a little scary to me, but mostly because I'm not sure where to find parts etc. That education will come with time just like all my other project cars have. Overall, it looks like it could be a really good starting point. My favorite color too which is a bonus. I'm leaving Sat. for two weeks but will look closer into that one when I get back.

Also agree with you, and I won't purchase anything unless it feels right to me.

@ 69Vettefla and Roco - I have seen the finished product in a few cars, but never been exposed to the installation. Always heard good things about Vintage Air - works well, clean installation, etc.

Thank you again all for your ideas and sharing your knowledge! I want to learn and plan before I buy anything so that I'm ready for the project ahead of me.

Adam

 

I think you are on the right track. Buy cheap and sink the cash into it as you can. You will end up with a nice car that you know what has been done to it.

If you just want something cool to resto mod, the late 70's cars are your best bet. The warped bumpers are easy to replace if you plan on painting it. Also, easy to drop a stroker into them so you won't get embarrassed, if power is your thing. Other wise they are just a decent cruiser IMO.

The bumper cars just cost more. Chroming, brackets etc., get really expensive if bent or rusted. Other wise the cars are basically the same.

I just think the early cars look better overall, but I do tend to like the 78's with all the spoilers on them.

 

Well my first exposure to a Corvette was when one of my brothers pulled up in a silver '68 427 / 4spd car and then a couple of years later another brothers 72 454 / 4spd car - so I'm sure that's why the bumber cars stand out to me.

Everything I have built has been a big block car and setup for quarter mile stuff which is a blast but I think I'm looking for something that handles well, sounds cool and is fun to drive and do weekend trips in etc. Basically, a daily driver that isn't horrible on gas.

 

You want a mid 70's car then.

 

I'm thinking the same thing. The prices are reasonable for those and I spent a fair amount of time driving my brother's '77 around - very fun car! I'm guessing the same "to watch for" things apply to those - rust in frame and birdcage, plus the typical mechanical issues that would apply to any car.

I've been reading up and trying to educate myself so I can make a wise choice if I decide to make a purchase.

You guys have been awesome with your advice! Thank you very much.

Adam

 

If you want to improve drive ability the price is right on 74-77 cars to do an LS engine swap. Best of both worlds. Power and efficiency. If you find a car that does not need paint, work on the drive line and suspension. You can get steeroids, Vette brake suspension, and LS with new transmission, you would have a true handling terror with 25 MPG and the dependability of any new car.

You could probably pull off the whole thing in the $20k range including the car.

 

There is nothing at all wrong with the late models, I love my 81, it HAD the first year computer, but that was easily remedied (removed) so mine is basically an 80 now. You can get into a good driver for about what you are looking to spend, and for me they are the more comfortable C3's, seats with bolsters, even power mirrors and a power drivers seat as an option. And I much prefer the look over the old style chrome bumper cars. Just throwing that out there, as there are a lot of late C3 owners here that are very happy with them.