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i'm thinking about going to manual steering, whether it be rack and pinion or a factory manual box. how much harder would it be to steer my 78 with the 18x8 wheels i'm thinking about going with.
Why go with manual? The PS hookup is pretty easy with an LS motor. i have Steeroids with hydroboost. Would not go back to manual anything.
the weight savings and parasitic losses are why i was thinking of going to manual steering. how bad are the parasitic drag with the ls power steering pumps as compared to the ones on the 70's small block cars?
To me the manual st. is not bad. Earlier cars had an easy adj. for manual or faster for PS. The C3 PS power loss seems negligible based on actual experiences & Jim Shea comments.
ok, the power loss was my main concern. i'm doing everything i can possibly do to get the most miles i can get out of a gallon of gas as this is going to be my daily driver once it's all finished.
I've driven both. I don't think you'll save on gas (the weight difference will be minimal and the conversion cost will not be), and you'll swear at your car everytime you turn.
If you do make the change - don't forget one of the ***** on the steering wheel LOL!
You will notice little, if any, difference in HP and MPG with or without PS. PS pumps only really use power when you're turning, and most of your driving is relatively straight. The pump isn't generating max pressure at all times. When not turning, the ps fluid is essentially in a low pressure "bypass" loop through the system.
Last edited by Bugman Jeff; Sep 24, 2011 at 11:09 AM.
If you have an auto - there is significant power loss through the automatic drivetrain, and that really does mean noticeable mileage loss. Putting in a manual tranny would make more sense IMHO.
I went from power to manual and I like it. The road feedback to me feels more like a sports car should. Tires are P245 60 15's up front(8 inch tread), and I have no problem steering.
The reason I converted to manual was the power steering ram leaked like a spaghetti strainer....I rebuilt the whole power steering system twice in 13 years and in short order the leaks were back.
With the manual,...no more leaks.
If you're after horsepower gains,....spend your money on cam/heads.
I went from power to manual and I like it. The road feedback to me feels more like a sports car should. Tires are P245 60 15's up front(8 inch tread), and I have no problem steering.
The reason I converted to manual was the power steering ram leaked like a spaghetti strainer....I rebuilt the whole power steering system twice in 13 years and in short order the leaks were back.
With the manual,...no more leaks.
If you're after horsepower gains,....spend your money on cam/heads.
it isnt the power i'm after. i imagine that there is a bit of weight savings, and as i understand it, the steering isnt quite so scary at high speeds. the PO mentioned that at higher speeds (80mph +) the steering was too quick. should i just get a replacement manual steering box like the original ones or just go ahead and bite the bullet and just go and buy the manual rack and pinion setup? is there a performance or dependability advantage with the rack+pinion or would the much much less expensive stock manual steering box?
295 dollars for a /www.corvettesteering.com factory manual steering box or 1249.99 manual rack and pinion kit. i guess what i'm wondering is the rack and pinion really worth nearly 1000 dollars more than the factory manual box.
Last edited by bucky katt; Sep 26, 2011 at 10:16 AM.
The steering box is the same. You'll need the pitman arm and center link for a manual conversion. I can't say if it's worth going rack/pinion because I've never driven one, but I am happy with mine the way it is.
My thinking is the manual steering option gives you future maintainence just like stock. If you go rack and pinion, it won't be as easy as going to your local parts store and getting stock replacement parts.
R&P is a different method to do it & not necessarily better. I do not care about stock & if there was a great design R&P I would switch.
Someone posted about how good the R&P change was & then later found out it temporarily tightened (my words for it) the worn out front & soon was bad again since that was not the issue.
Some R&P are faster so your issue there might be worse.
well, i'm just going to rebuild the steering box that is on the car now (it has 68,000 miles on it) remove the pump and power steering ram and call it a day. yes, i will replace ball joints, tie rod ends, idler arm and rag joint. safe is the #1 priority in my eyes.
Unless your car is at least creeping at some low speed, steering effort is considerably harder with a manual steering system. Once moving, there is not a lot of difference and steering "feel" is better with the manual system. But, it's a PITA to parallel park with a manual system on a C3!!!
Unless your car is at least creeping at some low speed, steering effort is considerably harder with a manual steering system. Once moving, there is not a lot of difference and steering "feel" is better with the manual system. But, it's a PITA to parallel park with a manual system on a C3!!!
hell, i cant parallel park my 94' Saturn wagon let alone parking something that is longer and heavier by 1000 pounds i'll be going with an 18x8 wheel, front and rear, 4" backspacing so i wont have extremely wide tires. if i decide it's too much effort to steer with a manual box i can always put power steering back on.
well, i'm just going to rebuild the steering box that is on the car now (it has 68,000 miles on it) remove the pump and power steering ram and call it a day. yes, i will replace ball joints, tie rod ends, idler arm and rag joint. safe is the #1 priority in my eyes.
The center link has a control valve for activating the ram on the power unit. You will need to get the manual center link or you will have slop in your steering.
The center link has a control valve for activating the ram on the power unit. You will need to get the manual center link or you will have slop in your steering.