correct finish?
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
correct finish?
While replacing items on the car (1980), my son and I are attempting to correct problems, perform suspension updates, and return some items back to original. I realize this is probably ****, but we purchased new muffler support brackets and bushings that attach to the rear frame. Old ones rusted and worn. The new brackets and hangar are just raw steel and will rust in short time as car is a DD for my son. Does anybody know if there was a finish (silver- satin black?) for these brackets before installing them?
Also, the rear spare tire carrier metal hangars that are attached to the batwing and support the spare tire carrier...we bead blasted them but are unsure if they came black or silver from the factory?
Thanks!
Also, the rear spare tire carrier metal hangars that are attached to the batwing and support the spare tire carrier...we bead blasted them but are unsure if they came black or silver from the factory?
Thanks!
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
I do not attend NCRS judging contests, but I like my car to appear in the original condition. So, I never leave bare steel (or aluminum, for that matter) to corrode over time. For steel items...this includes nuts, bolts, washers but not on the threaded areas...I coat them with clear engine enamel. They stay 'clean' for a loooooooong time. Just let the paint cure for at least two days before installing; spray paint takes about 5-7 days to fully cure.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,220
Likes: 6
From: www.Z16.org North/West Pennsylvania
Unless you are going for NCRS judging, being a DD I would just spray them with some Rust-oleum semi gloss or satin black. 
Last edited by garage-ghost; Oct 13, 2011 at 11:29 AM.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
No NCRS in the future. Just figured we would attempt to keep some original or return to original as much as reasonably possible. Spraying clear on them sounds like a plan if they were untreated from the factory.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,374
Likes: 224
From: Beecher Illinois
I've got low mile original Vettes and I still decided to blast and paint some of the bare metal parts, including those exhaust hangers.
I'll take a judging hit before I want to look at rusty parts.
I'll take a judging hit before I want to look at rusty parts.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,482
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
Maybe not. The appearance of original is judged. Original was, of course, new. If the part is original and you've clear coated them but they do not appear to have been clear coated, you could be okay. If the part was unfinished from the factory and you have a perfect coat of semi-flat black on it, you can expect to get dinged.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,301
Likes: 4,389
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi Scott,
I've found that by doing a little experimenting with flat and semi-flat clear, and also high-temp clear, you can do a pretty nice job of having protection on parts that look 'bare'.
Regards,
Alan
I've found that by doing a little experimenting with flat and semi-flat clear, and also high-temp clear, you can do a pretty nice job of having protection on parts that look 'bare'.
Regards,
Alan
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Pro
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 581
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From: BC
Steve g
Oh, this is NCRS blasphemy! M.W. will just have a fit! Have we no shame?.... 
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 5,236
Likes: 898
From: Myrtle Beach SC
For steel items...this includes nuts, bolts, washers but not on the threaded areas...I coat them with clear engine enamel. They stay 'clean' for a loooooooong time. Just let the paint cure for at least two days before installing; spray paint takes about 5-7 days to fully cure.
If I would have read further...I would have got answers with options!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 5,236
Likes: 898
From: Myrtle Beach SC
Pro
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 581
Likes: 5
From: BC
I don't know if this is where the difference lies or is correct in all instances, but the polyurethanes that we use on automotive finishes use an activater whereas the urethane aerosol doesn't. I'd be interested to know myself.
Steve g
Edit: Googled it and the terms are used interchangeably.
Steve g
Edit: Googled it and the terms are used interchangeably.
Last edited by Steve2147; Oct 14, 2011 at 09:37 AM.
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: Saint Louis Missouri
While replacing items on the car (1980), my son and I are attempting to correct problems, perform suspension updates, and return some items back to original. I realize this is probably ****, but we purchased new muffler support brackets and bushings that attach to the rear frame. Old ones rusted and worn. The new brackets and hangar are just raw steel and will rust in short time as car is a DD for my son. Does anybody know if there was a finish (silver- satin black?) for these brackets before installing them?
Also, the rear spare tire carrier metal hangars that are attached to the batwing and support the spare tire carrier...we bead blasted them but are unsure if they came black or silver from the factory?
Thanks!
Also, the rear spare tire carrier metal hangars that are attached to the batwing and support the spare tire carrier...we bead blasted them but are unsure if they came black or silver from the factory?
Thanks!
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 15,892
Likes: 42
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,683
Likes: 34
From: Working on the car NY
Eastwoods "Satin Black" in a spray bomb is great stuff. More expensive that Rustoleum or Krylon but well worth it IMHO. They make a couple of varieties but I use the basic (cheapest of the lot). It covers great even with one coat.