Headlight assembly install question
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,683
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From: Working on the car NY
Headlight assembly install question
I assume it would be better when installing a new hood surround (and new fenders, inner fenders) to have the assemblies in place but how difficult would it be to install the assemblies after the hood surround is already installed?
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,270
Likes: 4,362
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi tr,
I'd think just the opposite... I'd install the complete head light doors, with frame, after the surround/aprons are completed and then align them to the openings in the surround.
You can install the headlight doors without all the 'working parts' first to alghn them, and then install the mechanisms.
You'll have access through the grill openings, and from below through the cooling cut-outs.
Regards,
Alan
I'd think just the opposite... I'd install the complete head light doors, with frame, after the surround/aprons are completed and then align them to the openings in the surround.
You can install the headlight doors without all the 'working parts' first to alghn them, and then install the mechanisms.
You'll have access through the grill openings, and from below through the cooling cut-outs.
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; Oct 19, 2011 at 02:32 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
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From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
On your new front fiberlglass, is the lower valance panel already bonded in? If not, you have a world of room to work with headlight installation and adjustment.
Less room if the panel is installed.
Less room if the panel is installed.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 2,609
Likes: 12
From: Massapequa Park NY
Jim
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,683
Likes: 34
From: Working on the car NY
Hi tr,
I'd think just the opposite... I'd install the complete head light doors, with frame, after the surround/aprons are completed and then align them to the openings in the surround.
You can install the headlight doors without all the 'working parts' first to alghn them, and then install the mechanisms.
You'll have access through the grill openings, and from below through the cooling cut-outs.
Regards,
Alan
I'd think just the opposite... I'd install the complete head light doors, with frame, after the surround/aprons are completed and then align them to the openings in the surround.
You can install the headlight doors without all the 'working parts' first to alghn them, and then install the mechanisms.
You'll have access through the grill openings, and from below through the cooling cut-outs.
Regards,
Alan
Good news - I (somehow) thought the opposite. Assemblies (
) will take 1-4 weeks for delivery so during that time, I can (hopefully) install the fiberglass pieces I've had since the summer of '08.Thanks Alan, Fred
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,683
Likes: 34
From: Working on the car NY
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,683
Likes: 34
From: Working on the car NY
Are you installing a one piece or assembled front clip? I installed the nose then dealt with the headlight assemblies after wards. It wasn't all that hard to get them in & out, especially with the hood off. Adjusting everything can be tedious, so remove the actuator and they can be opened & closed by hand pretty easily. Even with the springs in place.
Jim
Jim
Neither
. I have a PM top surround, inner fenders and fenders along with corresponding bonding strips.Glad to hear I can do the assemblies after so maybe I can get the pieces on and bonded before the winter.
Regards, Fred
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 2,609
Likes: 12
From: Massapequa Park NY
Also test fit your grilles, bumpers, brackets, etc before bonding anything. Basically put everything together to make sure it all fits, then take it apart again. Lost count how many times I went through that routine
Jim
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,683
Likes: 34
From: Working on the car NY
Then you may want to take Easy Mike's suggestion & leave the lower valence panel un bonded until you fit & adjust the headlight assemblies. Get everything fit and adjusted including the lower valence. I found with the repo inner fenders that I had to brace them against the tires to get them into the proper position. Otherwise they held the bottom of the fenders to far apart for the lower valence.
Also test fit your grilles, bumpers, brackets, etc before bonding anything. Basically put everything together to make sure it all fits, then take it apart again. Lost count how many times I went through that routine
Jim
Also test fit your grilles, bumpers, brackets, etc before bonding anything. Basically put everything together to make sure it all fits, then take it apart again. Lost count how many times I went through that routine
Jim
you come over and help me with the install 
.On another note, what did you do about the rivets when you installed the inner fenders? The original rivets are 1/2" diameter and are "real" rivets and not pop rivets. Did you go
"correct' with the real rivets and, if so, did you use the 
rivet setting tool - or did you do it with pop rivets
Fred
ps. did you use screws or clamps to hold the pieces together when bonding?
Last edited by TWINRAY; Oct 21, 2011 at 02:55 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 2,609
Likes: 12
From: Massapequa Park NY
I'm sure we'll be going over all of this when you come over and help me with the install .
On another note, what did you do about the rivets when you installed the inner fenders? The original rivets are 1/2" diameter and are "real" rivets and not pop rivets. Did you go "correct' with the real rivets and, if so, did you use the rivet setting tool - or did you do it with pop rivets
Fred
ps. did you use screws or clamps to hold the pieces together when bonding?
you come over and help me with the install .On another note, what did you do about the rivets when you installed the inner fenders? The original rivets are 1/2" diameter and are "real" rivets and not pop rivets. Did you go
"correct' with the real rivets and, if so, did you use the rivet setting tool - or did you do it with pop rivetsFred
ps. did you use screws or clamps to hold the pieces together when bonding?
Did I mention I'm still working on finishing mine 10+ years later I used original style soft aluminum rivets from Doc R along with a
rivet set tool in my air hammer. Pretty easy to do, especially by myself. Set the air pressure down to about 30 - 35 psi. Otherwise it hits way to hard and the tool will bounce off the rivet. You can back up the rivet head with a body dolly, hammer head, steel bar, etc
It's getting to the point in the year that it will be to cold to bond the nose on also. Unless you have a heated garage
Jim
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,270
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From: Westminster Maryland
Hi TW,
Just my 2 cents.
Since you have the pm fiberglass pieces and bonding strips, it would be a shame to not use the flat headed aluminium rivets where they originally were. Even though they're more work.
The factory used 3 or 4 different lengths so there's not too much shaft (personally I've never had that problem) to mushroom.
Also, there are countersunk and oval head rivets used too. I can't remember just where, or even if, any were part of the front clip.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Just my 2 cents.
Since you have the pm fiberglass pieces and bonding strips, it would be a shame to not use the flat headed aluminium rivets where they originally were. Even though they're more work.
The factory used 3 or 4 different lengths so there's not too much shaft (personally I've never had that problem) to mushroom.
Also, there are countersunk and oval head rivets used too. I can't remember just where, or even if, any were part of the front clip.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 2,609
Likes: 12
From: Massapequa Park NY
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Working on the car NY
My thoughts exactly
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,683
Likes: 34
From: Working on the car NY
I'd like to use just clamps (if that's possible) to eliminate the possiblity of the "holes" eventially showing thru
