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Old Oct 24, 2011 | 10:35 AM
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Default LT-1 Dilemma

Hi Guys,

Need some advice but first some background.

Picked up a 71 LT-1 Corvette this summer. It doesn’t have it’s original block which probably means it no longer can be considered a true LT-1 although it’s retained the heads and manifold. It’s a tired car and needs a lot of work (rust in the windshield a biggie) but I recently came across a local ad for a 71 LT-1 Vette block for a $1,000. The owner is going to provide me the numbers off it so I can confirm.

So my question is: would this be a good investment in the car? It’s unlikely to be the matching engine but would it make it a real LT-1? Or should I just stay on course and put my limited resources addressing the bigger issues as the current engine runs fine.

Thanks for any and all opinions,

Mark
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Old Oct 24, 2011 | 10:58 AM
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its no longer the orginal block, no matter how you word it.
its now a non-number matching car.
Not that I would care,... but some do care.
Not worth the trouble in my mind.
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Old Oct 24, 2011 | 11:28 AM
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Not worth it. Unless you have the numbers restamped they will not match your car. Remember the serial number is stamped into the stamp pad. That is the first thing a numbers guy will check.
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Old Oct 24, 2011 | 11:30 AM
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LT-1s had a bog standard basic block, same as every other GM car and truck of the era. The only thing that made them different was what was installed in and them and what got stamped on the pad to reflect this.

What makes you sure that the car you've got is a real LT-1 or the block you're thinking of buying is legit?

No, it doesn't make a car more 'authentic' by putting another NOM in it.
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Old Oct 24, 2011 | 11:32 AM
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71 350 blocks are the same (010). There would be no real advantage in swapping them unless you wanted a CGZ suffix code.

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Old Oct 24, 2011 | 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by mlwardle
Picked up a 71 LT-1 Corvette this summer. It doesn’t have it’s original block which probably means it no longer can be considered a true LT-1 although it’s retained the heads and manifold.
So far as I'm concerned if it was originally built with an LT1 engine, block replaced but all other components there, it's still an LT1. This coming from a driver's perspective, not a collector.

If the replacement block is not correct wrt date codes it will add no value to the car. With reasonable date codes you could have the block restamped to look like the original. Frowned upon by many but done quite often from what I've heard.
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Old Oct 24, 2011 | 12:32 PM
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Thanks for the great info!

That makes for an easy decision. I’m actually relieved, as I don’t really need it. Just didn’t want to pass up something that could possibly make a big difference. The current block is out of a 72 Chev passenger car which seemed like sacrilege in a Vette. Great to know there’s no real difference.

Mike Ward: Hello to a fellow Canuck! There is some evidence it’s an LT-1 but the only way to prove it, I guess, is to contact GM Canada. I understand we Canadians have an advantage in that we can obtain the records through their vintage vehicle services. It hasn’t really been that important to me at this point as I just like it for what it is, a 71 Corvette.

Really appreciate all the advice. What a great on-line community!

Mark
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Old Oct 24, 2011 | 12:43 PM
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Depending on what was done to the block, a 72 Chev passenger car would not be the same block as a 72 LT-1 block.

1. Lt-1 would be a 4 bolt main, passenger car probably 2 bolt.
2, LT-1 would have forged crank, rods, pistons, solid lifter cam. Passenger car would have all cast internals and no solid lifter cam.
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Old Oct 24, 2011 | 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by MelWff
Depending on what was done to the block, a 72 Chev passenger car would not be the same block as a 72 LT-1 block.

1. Lt-1 would be a 4 bolt main, passenger car probably 2 bolt.
2, LT-1 would have forged crank, rods, pistons, solid lifter cam. Passenger car would have all cast internals and no solid lifter cam.
They all start off on the same casting lines irrespective of where they end up. The only difference between a 2 bolt and 4 bolt block is a machining operation done much later in the process.
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Old Oct 24, 2011 | 01:37 PM
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I agree but if the OP wants the benefits of a true LT-1 short block assembly he has to check what his current unknown shortblock has and if found deficient he may want to buy a true LT-1 short block. His statement "Great to know there is no real difference" is incorrect.
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Old Oct 24, 2011 | 02:08 PM
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1. I agree with what everybody says above. If you buy that block, it will still be stamped with another car's Vin derivitive. it is the 1st thing anyone buying your car would look for.

2. why replace your 350, ( probably stamped from another car), with another used 350 ( stamped from another car) that you have no idea what it needs, it is just a backward move.

3. 1000$ ?? those blocks are a dime a dozen and 1000$ is triple what you should be paying for it.

4. the only upside here is if that block is dated within 3 months of your car's build date. Then you would have to erase it's existing stamp pad, you would have to find someone to broach and stamp your new engine's pad. Plan on 4 figures for that, plus 500$ round trip shipping, then consider the ethics issue, plus rebuild the block.

5. windshield rust is your primary problem and where there is windshield rust, there is almost always frame rust and birdcage rust. This issue will hang over your head thruout your entire ownership, as well as make your car unsafe. I am not intending to be brutal, but I advise you to sell for whatever you can get.
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Old Oct 24, 2011 | 03:00 PM
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Thanks Joewill,

Fortunately the rust is confined to the windshield frame and is in the process of being repaired. The frame and the rest of the birdcage have been inspected and have been deemed in good condition.

Mark
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 10:59 AM
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It isn't worth a dime unless you sell it. "Are you planning on selling it?" is the question I would ask first.
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 11:31 AM
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Not selling. Looking forward to many years of fixing and driving. Had a 77 Vette back in the early eighties and always wanted one again. Sold my 68 GS and traded a 63 Riviera for this one. More work than anticipated but that's my own fault as I was a little too trusting of the previous owner. Fortunately I enjoy working on my cars so I'm sucking it up and rolling up my sleeves.

Hope everybody doesn't mind me posting lots of questions in the future as I'll need the help.

Thanks,

Mark
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 12:16 PM
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I'd pass on that block at $1k all day long.
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 06:03 PM
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Hi Mark,
I'll add a thought with a slightly different slant... if you're going to put a lot of work, (you said you're rolling up your sleeves), into this car, then it might be nice to put together a LT-! motor for it.... if you become CONVINCED it IS an LT-! car.
I don't see anything wrong with making an LT-! motor to go in a real LT-! car. That's far different than making a non LT-! car into a LT-! car.
I hope you post pictures of your work because it's fun to see what people are doing.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 08:49 PM
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Thanks Alan!

The few Corvette people who've seen the car are convinced it's a LT-1 but I'll need to get GM Canada to confirm that. Supposedly the block was built to the LT-1 specs with the original heads and manifold reused but I have no proof short of taking it apart. Not really into that as it runs well enough and there's more pressing issues to get the windshield taken care of.

I'll try posting some pictures if anyones interested but I should probably start a new thread. If someone wants, I can take pictures of specific areas that might help prove or disprove what i have. Could be entertaining!

Mark
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 09:24 PM
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Mark,

Call George Zapora at GM Canada in Oshawa with your VIN. He'll advise if your car started life in Canada or not. If so, for a reasonable fee he'll put together a statement showing the options it was built with and the original dealers name and address.

If it's not a Canadian car there's plenty of clues nonetheless to be fairly confident that it's a real LT-1 , or LT-! as Alan always calls them.

The engine block is not really the difficult or expensive bit to find if you decide to return it to original config.
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
LT-1s had a bog standard basic block, same as every other GM car and truck of the era. The only thing that made them different was what was installed in and them and what got stamped on the pad to reflect this.

What makes you sure that the car you've got is a real LT-1 or the block you're thinking of buying is legit?

No, it doesn't make a car more 'authentic' by putting another NOM in it.
I don't agree. LT-1 blocks had nodular iron main caps and were cast out of an iron alloy with nickel and tin added. Your 71 would be more valuable if it had a "CE" coded replacment block. That being said real core LT-1 motors are few and scarce today. I have 2 "CE" coded 370HP motors. One is a 1969 date the other a 71 motor. I paid $800 for one years who and the other was a part of a complex trade deal in hindsight I should have bought Apple computer stock instead. I value either motor at around $4K as they sit, one with under 5K miles, the other has an early 386 casting that works for Z28 Camaros 302 cores.
Niether motor would go back into my Vette with the crappy TRW pistons and weak pink rods. Looking for a proper core block today isn't easy as circle trackers have almost exhausted the supply of good cores. Take some photos of the motor your looking at and post them, we will give you our opinon on it.
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 07:00 PM
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Hi Mike,
You're the first person to ever mention it.... to me they really are LT-!, not LT-1!!!!!!
The very first time I heard one I knew that they were something VERY special from Chevrolet!!!!
Regards,
Alan
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