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ok, lot of talk about junk (lonestar) diff side yokes and good lifetime warranty ones.(can't find where those are from tho) So what/where are the good ones? Don't want to go thru all the work only to have them twist or worse break.
Thanks!
Unless you're going for original looks: KA axles from Tom's Differentials.
You just need to cut the ears off the diff housing.
They have a flange like the one at the wheels: https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=93165...8D39BD0E%21324
Come on guys, I know there are quite a few of you that have replaced the side yokes, common problem with the C3. I appreciate those that did reply but doesnt anyone have any ideas, thoughts or stories on what is good or bad? Anyone?
Unless you're going for original looks: KA axles from Tom's Differentials.
You just need to cut the ears off the diff housing.
They have a flange like the one at the wheels: https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=93165...8D39BD0E%21324
Hate to tell you those axels are dog crap. The ends are not hardened and they showed signs of wear at 1000 miles and I had one break with a car that was producing about 450 HP. No drag racing with it either. I would not put one of those back in if you gave it to me. Very soft. These were the 17 spline ones. No idea on the 31 spline axels but I would put money on it they are not hardened. I know Gary has used them and sends them out to be hardened.
Get the ones thay are drop forged and heat treated. They are expensve but so is a total rebuild of the rear after the axel has let go.
ok, lot of talk about junk (lonestar) diff side yokes and good lifetime warranty ones.(can't find where those are from tho) So what/where are the good ones? Don't want to go thru all the work only to have them twist or worse break.
Thanks!
Duntov in Texas a little slow but great stuff!no junk they race cars with the parts they send you (new of course) I buy all my rearend stuff there.
Please, anything but Duntov! I bought their yokes. Less than 15K miles later there was 0.055" missing off the ends (not hardened) and they had twisted severely. A few more months and they would have snapped in half.
Hate to tell you those axels are dog crap. The ends are not hardened and they showed signs of wear at 1000 miles and I had one break with a car that was producing about 450 HP. No drag racing with it either. I would not put one of those back in if you gave it to me. Very soft. These were the 17 spline ones. No idea on the 31 spline axels but I would put money on it they are not hardened. I know Gary has used them and sends them out to be hardened.
Get the ones thay are drop forged and heat treated. They are expensve but so is a total rebuild of the rear after the axel has let go.
Your reference to axles appears to refer to Tom's KA axles. Is this correct that you refer to these axles as being "dog crap?" "No idea on the 31 spline axels but I would put money on it they are not hardened. I know Gary has used them and sends them out to be hardened." Are you once again referring to Tom's axles?
Just curious, I thought Toms stuff was pretty much the best stuff. As far as I know, all the 31 spline axles come from Toms. Do I read your comment correctly that these axles are all sent out to be hardened?
Hate to tell you those axels are dog crap. The ends are not hardened and they showed signs of wear at 1000 miles and I had one break with a car that was producing about 450 HP.
Hmmm I don't think so. They have the brown/blueish hue so I can only assume they were hardened.
No drag racing with it either. I would not put one of those back in if you gave it to me. Very soft. These were the 17 spline ones. No idea on the 31 spline axels but I would put money on it they are not hardened. I know Gary has used them and sends them out to be hardened.
Get the ones thay are drop forged and heat treated. They are expensve but so is a total rebuild of the rear after the axel has let go.
Well that would be a bad idea with any standard 17 spline diff.
Last edited by Danish Shark; Nov 26, 2011 at 04:21 AM.
On ebay found side yokes that are labeled "GM Restoration Parts" with a GM Part# 14016436 for $109.99 a piece. Anybody know anything about these? Any good? Thanks! http://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-79-Corv...item1c1e8e6b96
On ebay found side yokes that are labeled "GM Restoration Parts" with a GM Part# 14016436 for $109.99 a piece. Anybody know anything about these? Any good? Thanks!
"GM licensed only means a license fee was paid. It has nothing to do with anything regarding quality, accuracy or country of origin.
GM resto license scam is merely a marketing badge. Pay the fee and get the tag."
So Fort Wayne Clutch is the only one that didn't get slammed and till others give it a vote of confidence the jury might still be out on that one. Was hoping some of the vendors would throw in their two cents for their product but guess not. From what I gather the bottom line is they are all junk. Find that hard to believe but seems so. Any thoughts???
Here is a picture of the Toms 17 spline axle. This only has maybe 1500 miles on it and was not exposed to slicks or real sticky tires. Less than 500 HP did this. You can't tell from this picture but the end is even getting mushroomed over after only a few miles. I was not impressed.
Hmmmmm I'm interested in this topic as well as I plan to have Gary do my diff in the near future. I wonder what parts he uses..... and if theyr are any good. Ill be sure to check with him before taking them over.
I was in the same boat last year. I had the ones I bought from Duntov fail miserably and needed new ones. Got lucky and found a set from a C2 that had been laying on a shelf for a few decades. They were used but had less than 1 thou wear, machining marks still visible on the inner end. If I hadn't found these I was planning on getting rebuilt ones from Bairs (I've been told they are good, but no first hand experience).
Hmmmmm I'm interested in this topic as well as I plan to have Gary do my diff in the near future. I wonder what parts he uses..... and if theyr are any good. Ill be sure to check with him before taking them over.
Gary usually uses Toms stuff but sends them out to be hardened so there should be no issue. I talked to him about this a while ago and he has since advised me of the hardeneing he does.
Let me ask this... for those of you that have had any of the listed yokes fail, what is your driving style? Are you really hard on them? Heavy on the gas and smoking the tires? Always putting the car thru the paces? Or are they failing under normal day to day driving? I'm not one to ever get on it so maybe any of the yokes would work... unless of course they are failing no matter how they are treated. Let me know...
Let me ask this... for those of you that have had any of the listed yokes fail, what is your driving style? Are you really hard on them? Heavy on the gas and smoking the tires? Always putting the car thru the paces? Or are they failing under normal day to day driving? I'm not one to ever get on it so maybe any of the yokes would work... unless of course they are failing no matter how they are treated. Let me know...
I lost a 76 side yoke in a Home depot parking lot with no force on it at all. It must have been hammered too many times by a previous owner. It looked like it had either crystalized metal or sheared under long term metal fatigue. We replaced them with the most expensive forged ones you could get and when we did we replaced both sides assuming they were the same vintage and the second one could break next. When the rear end was out was the time to do it. Can't remember the cost or supplier but it's worked fine for 2,000 miles now including a trip on a road race course in May.
Will include a photo of my side yoke that broke if I can find it.